how hard is it to get an honest answer on here?
Ask an honest question with as much detail as you can provide, and somone will do their best to answer your question. It might not be right, it might get you close, or it might be exactly what your looking for. But you have to remember this question forum is all free for you and the people answering the questions are volunteering their time to help you out So it all depends on who can or wants to answer a certain question. Post back what you want to know and I'll give you an honest answer. I'll tell you if I know, or if I don't, and or steer you in the direction to get you an correct answer. Hope this helps.
It's hard to diagnose alot of things over a computer, without being there we cant even do a simple visual and all test are assumed the poster has done them right and knows 100% of what they are talking about. There is lots of room for error, but all people are doing is trying to help
i ran my truck out of gas, and when more gas wasnt the answer i tried replacin the fuel pump and still nothin, i havent tried replacing the battery yet, i was wonderin if anyone else had run into a similar problem like this, and thank you guys for being honest
So does the truck crank or do you get nothing/clicking?
prior to changing the fuel pump, it would would come on but fuel pump wouldnt prime, and its the same thing after it was replaced, but my step father is and electrian and he said something about not gettin voltage to the fuel pump
So it's only sometimes the fuel pump primes? sounds like a leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphragm; which floods the motor when the pump is running and the motor is stopped. You can check this by pulling the vacuum hose off the regulator and seeing whether there is any fuel in the hose. If there is any fuel in the hose; the fuel pressure regulator should be replaced.
You should definately verify that the voltage at fuel pump is correct first. I believe you have a vortech style engine in your truck which would mean that the fuel pressure regulator is under the upper half of your intake. Not easily accessible. Normally if regulator goes bad the truck will run rich but the fuel pump will still prime every time. The electrical part would be the first thing i would check.
Once again, if he ran the truck outta gas and sucked up trash out of the tank it clogged the fuel filter. It may not prime becasue the line is pressurized. It's cheap and easy to replace compared to the spiders. Power may not go to the pump becasue it is meant to cycle on and off when needed. Spider injectors leaking has early signs of hard starts when it's warm (like if you go to the store, shop a little, and it takes a while to start up).
5.3, im not around my truck so i cant say whats what yet
I agree with Andrew. The fuel filter inside the fuel line connector at the carburetor became clogged with little pieces of rust and possibly oxidized fuel goo caused by water in the fuel tank. This can happen very quickly when you draw off the last bit of fuel at the bottom of the tank. A good test for the fuel pump itself is to disconnect the fuel line at the carb, place a container to catch any fuel; and crank the engine for a few seconds. (if you have an electric fuel pump as apposed to a mechanical pump you may only need to turn your key to the "RUN" position.) If the container now has gas in it then the pump is working fine and the problem is trash in the carb filter. One last thought - you may have actually drawn water from your tank into the float reservoir. Depending on the model carb you may be able to open the reservoir and remove the water or you may have to partially disassemble the carb to get to this chamber. Check the pump and filter before you take this route. You should replace any gasket or seal you pull off!
A 2001 truck does not have a carburetor. A truck that cranks the engine but does not run the pump and "it comes on but the pump wont prime " is in need of further explanation for me anyway. That does not yet indicate a battery issue. A truck getting a new fuel pump without a filter replacement or check to clean for examining the sample is leaving the dirty fuel question unanswered. and you may want to run the pinpoint tests in order using the inexpensive tools required. There has been no mention of jumpering the fuel pump relay yet for a quick test. or part substitution. A haynes manual is free at the library, to borrow. They always have the bowtie books. in every type. a 12v test light is 4 bucks and a Dvom can be as cheap or expensive as you like. You should probably listen to andrew, and do the pretests and checks before providing the rest of your vehicle info. I notice you said 5.3L. 2001 chevy 2wd shortie. Is that correct? And yours uses what fuel system?............hope these ideas are helpful.