Check Engine Light
Plugs wires coil pack
I have the EXACT same problem with my 2002 Accent. It is a real mystery. The problem started about three years ago (maybe more) 1) The first thing I did was change the plugs and wires and the car ran great - for about a week. So then I changed the thermostat. No help at all (But then I didn't think it would work). 2) A mechanic near work said it was the catalytic converter, so I brought it to my regular mechanic and he said it couldn't be that - it had to be the coil pack. Changed that and the plugs (expensive) ran GREAT for about a month. Then the problem came back! 3) So I brought it to my girlfriend's mechanic. He said it was the coil pack. I explained that I'd done that already, so he changed the oxygen sensor, and the plugs again (expensive) Ran great for about three months, then the problem came back again. 4) He looked at it again and found a hole in my exhaust manifold. Fixed that (expensive) changed the plugs AGAIN and it ran great for about six months. Then it came back again! 5) Brought it to a diagnostic "specialist" some kid fresh out of a training seminar on how to read test equipment. He runs a diagnostic and told me it was the spark pack, (sorry done that) then it must be the oxygen sensor (nope done that too) well then its the catalytic converter (sorry catalytic converters don't get better when you change the oxygen sensor or spark pack) At this point he starts giving me a hard time about how if I don't agree to let him fix these things there's no way he can move on to what the next possible problem might be! So I say... well PRETEND you've already fixed them.. what's next? And he says... the thermostat! 6) O.K. I don't agree to let them do any of this (obviously) but I still have to pay for the diagnostic! So I go home and change the thermostat again! (After all, its an $18 part and half an hour with a socket wrench. Well, maybe he's right??? NOPE! 7) So I cough and sputter to work the next day, and on the way home I break down. First the sputtering gets really bad. Then the lights dim. I shut off the fan and the car runs better. Then worse. I shut off the radio and it gets better again, then worse. I shut off the lights and it smoothes right out... for about 10 seconds, then it all goes south, and the car won't go more than 5 miles an hour! 8) I get towed to my original mechanic who replaces the alternator and tensioner, oh and the spark plugs (yes again!) And now its running great. Until last week when it started sputtering all over again! So now I'm thinking of going straight to changing the spark plugs. It's the only common denominator I see, Anyone else going through this? JohnD
Check your oxygen sensor, I had a 2002 Accent and they have 2 oxygen sensors.
Replace the oxygen sensor this should fix the problem.
Well, my check engine light came on they put it on the computer and told me I wasn't putting the gas cap on right or my gas cap was bad. Now my car has started sputtering like when I down shift, like I didn't down shift far enough and when you start giving it gas it sputters and the check engine light blinks. I work with Big truck mechanics and they told me I needed to gave my fuel or gas filter changed. So, I carried it to have that done. They tell me I don't have a fuel filter. So, I came back to work and told the mechanics what they told me. He says some cars are made with the fuel filter inside the gas tank. To fix or replace you have to drop the gas tank to get to it. Any Advice... They told me to get some C Foam at an auto parts store and pour it in on a full tank of gas and that might help. I haven't tried that yet they just told me today. I was wondering if anyone had tried that?
If the check engine light is flashing you shouldnt drive car. Could cause serious damage to your engine. Do you still have the code that it gave you 2 weeks ago? Sounds like you possiblely have a bad miss fire. Check plug wires, coil pack and see if everything is connected.
You wouldnt have to replace both of oxygen sensor's cause only the upsteam o2 sensor deals with fuel calculations. The down steam o2 sensor is for catalyst effeciency.
The 'Flashing light' is more of a warning that catalytic converter failure will be the result of the problem currently happening - excess fuel getting dumped into it will cause it to overheat and damage the converter substrate. Flashing light is a skipping cylinder and will produce a p0300-304 code
Turned the error code from the engine cpu indicated the MAP Sensor was defective. Ordered the part from the web and fitted it. Problem solved.
Sounds like you had multiple problems from the start. If you posted the diagnostic information obtained from the computer I think you would have had numerous codes which would be confusing to diagnose. This happens especially when a check engine light has been on for an extended period of time and not checked. When I see numerous codes I inform my customer that I am going to repair the most important ( The ones that come back immediately ( Hard Codes ) ) and clear all the rest. If another one pops back then we will address it at that time. If it was a MAP sensor - it would have been an active code with outputs out of specifications amd mode 6 information borderline bad. Basically easy to diagnose. Its tough to diagnose with words. Good Luck - I hope you are fixed for the LONG term
Just an update. I put on a new gas cap and they reset the computer and cleared the check engine light. On the first tank of gas the check engine light came back on before I could get home that day. The Mechanics at work told me to get some Sea Foam at the auto part store and add it to the gas the next time I fueled up, so I put 1/2 can with about 9 gallons of gas. My car has been running better. I would say that stuff helped my car 95%. But I will let the guys know what you all have suggested and we'll go from there...
Thats why i told him not to drive the car, and said its probualy bad misfire/dead cylinder. I know what it means...
2006 hyundia accent check engine light is flashing on my car too so what are the po300 po302 and po304 what came up on it can u help buccaneerz89 i dont wont to pay 83 $ apece for coil is it some thing else with the car
Haynes 43015, 1996 & later: P0300 - Random Misfire detected p0302 - Misfire detected in cylinder 2 p0304 - " cylinder 4
I have had an issue with my Accent since year 2 (I've had it for 6 years). I smokes up when I start it, it sputters ALL THE TIME, and I have to put oil in this thing every week. I have that warrenty on it, but the last time I took it in to be fixed, they said it wasn't covered (the engine isn't covered... REALLY??!!) $867.00 later, it still does the same ol' stuff. :( Any ideas? Also, any ideas on the warrenty? I would think it's covered....
The reason I looked at this post is because I have a 2008 Accent and it has the check engine light come on several times, the service manger at the dealership told me that they needed to reset the computer. It was fine for awhile, then it did it again. By the third time I took it in and they replaced something like rails? Did not really know what it was. Car was fine for a long time. Driving on the interstate this afternoon and the check engine light came on and went off just as quickly, the engine revved up, scared the heck out of me. It has never done it like that before. The service manager says that if it does not go out or flashes to pull over to not do damage to the engine. I HATE car problems!
f@#K... just had baby just sunk 4000 into this car not mention the 2000 to buy the car and 500 in body work to get on the road.... now 5 days after purchase engine light is on for good.. no problem still zippy lil car and working perfect until 4 months very minimal back and forth driving notlong distances overall ... now sputtters and almost dies around turn take about40 seconds just to get up to 35km/h ....... scary when trying to get thru round abouts and to hospital to see my son i went dealerships one said misfirebegged em to hook up to comuter main guy comes out asks whos hyundia out fronnt i say mie he said move it now ... and had to leave appearntly a chev dealership cant even help a person out like sorry ur the closest auto shop figured have up to date mechanics and equipment that could multi read different models as most b and c gradde shops would have a reader that could identify atleast problem maybe not fix but atleast an idea .. ,,other said coil other said try this sh*t in ur gas tank .. none could hook a computer up before my time was due back at hospitalso had pur sh*t in gas tank and hope for best no my baby momma is drivin to hospital so i can try get some answers as we do not have really another 1000 for this car engine light constantly constantly FLASHING REPEDEATITIVLY !! sorry misspellling so upset worried n no answers elsewere!! AHHH i cant afford all this we just had kid worsdt possible time for car to go kaputs.....and b stranded and not able to get there every few hours ..such complicated stiutaton i wanna cry ....
Have a 2013 Hyundai, a BRAND NEW 2013! Same type issues. When you fill it it over flows eveywhere, check engine light has gone off multiple time. Monday (because NO Hyundai dealer in Texas works on their cars on the weekend) we will be taking it in for the 3rd time in less than a month. Not why I bought a new new car! Good bye POS Hyundai, it's worth the few extra bucks for the Honda (or Toyota) piece of mind. Hyundai had one attempt to make a believer out of me and the product and service suck! Fool me once, shame on you.... and you won't get a second chance!
my buddy has a 2000 accent, flashing light and its sputtering and all that good stuff ( 20 mph max!). his battery was bad and the battery end ( what u connect the battery with) was cracked and did not stay tight enough to make a connection. so today while he was at work i took some time to pick up new ends for him and a battery and put it in, took it for a drive and its about 75% better then what it was but its still flashing the check engine light, and sputters when u take off, but it runs now, i did notice that his motor mounts are bad, which will torque the motor and will not be properly connected to the transmission. so after he gets those done i wont be able to tell if thats the problemm or not. im thinking about telling him not to bother because its a old car ( only 55k and this many problems. my 95 f150 has 400k and runs stonger then anything else on i ever owned) the next thing i will replace for him are fuel injectors, since its sputtering its almost like its either over fueling the motor, or not enough, the gas filter should be okay because it wouldnt sputter.. 1) fuel pump 2)Fuel injectors 3) spark plugs and wires 4) distributor cap 5) collapsed cylinder 6) motor mounts if all that fails. its the controller ( computer ) which is a redic amount to spend, i figured i would share the list that i am performing on his car for anyone else who has this problem and would like an idea, take it to a shop and ask them to inspect those items. go with the cheaper ones first, because if u can fix it by spending 40 bucks for fuel injectors u saved yourself 400 from a collapsed cylinder. but all honesty. GO WITH FORD. DODGE. HONDA, TOYOTA, OR NISSAN!! Or mecerdez or bmw or lexus etc lol. good luck on your vehicles, if i find the problem with his i will repost the diagonosis of his car on here. have a good day and good luck yall
I have a 2006 Hyundai Accent and my car has been sputtering and the check engine light has been flashing after a month or so of having the coils changed out on it a total of three times. It just happend again this morning and i dont understand. Coils are not cheap and they should not be going bad that fast. Does anyone have any ideas as to what else it could be or any other solutions?
I have been chasing a problem caused by over oiling a K&N air filter but I have discovered a few things I'd like to share. When the car burns oil from worn rings or leaking valve seals it fowls the spark plugs and the check eng. light will come on ,the oil will also foul both oxygen sensors upstream and down stream if they are chalky white replace them. Iif a coil pack is eroded or a wire boot is cracked at the coil pack it will short to the outside of the coil and cause a misfire then the light will flash. very few after market mass air flow sensors will work well in extreme hot or cold they will often go out of spec and fail causing the car to run lean and the light will come on. Never shoot a throttle body or fule injector cleaner through the air box or before the mass air flow senser as the cleaner will leave a residue that will affect resistance and cause the dreaded light to come on and you will kill the sensor . My 2002 Accent 1.5 has been a good car for the money but all this computer crap has me missing my 3 favorite motors Chevy 235, GM 292 and Ford 300 inline 6 es are the most dependable motors ever built,they just fire up and do there job year after year.
I have a 2009 accent with the same problem I have taken it to the shop 6 times they kept pulling up codes I replaced fuel injector fuel canister and like 3 more things. I was told on accents after a few years the gas cap SEAL goes bad and the engine light comes on take it to autozone and get it checked out ive been driving with it on for 3 months now it drives fine im pretty sure its the gas cap seal
Hi, I have a problem with my Hyundai sonata 1996 model. Its just revving to high. Tried to adjust mixture screw all the way in and still revving high. Tried to adjust throttle positioning switch and still revving to high. Any suggestions??
2008 Hyundai accent 1.6 installed all speed sensors and check engine light comes back on
Unplug the mass air flow could help too ^^ Put something on the hole to dont put dirt in it ( electric tape ) unplug the negative for 30 sec , than make a little road test ;)
Interesting stuff. 2011 Hyundai Accent. Same problem, about two months ago check engine light comes on and I lost a lot of power, sputtering, etc. Did the gas cap thing right away (just tightened, not replaced) and it worked fine right away. Now it started sputtering again today, check engine light on again. Bought a new gas cap, worked for 10 min...no good now...could it be the opening itself is faulty somehow? Maybe the filter goes after this problem carries on for a bit? What the hell?
Change catalytic converter, they get stopped up and car cannot breath....its like making someone with lung issues run a mile, or try to replace gas cap seal like 2009 owner did
This may be helpful. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/landing/page.jsp?name=top-five- reasons-check-engine-light
I just received at 1999 Hyundai Accent, a few months after I got this car the check engine light came on, auto zone said it was due to an oxygen sensor. I noticed it started to sputter shortly after, but nothing else came of it. A few days ago it shut down in the middle of me driving home from work, no warning, no sputter, no overheating, nothing, just completely lost power. After about 15 minutes I was able to get it started and continued home. Once home, a mechanic came out and inspected everything, cleaned the battery terminals really well and everything else was fine. The catalytic converter was working right, the plugs are new, everything is working right according to him. I drove it the next day around town to run errands and it worked with no issues what so ever. I drove it today to visit family and after I made the 35 mile trip one way without any issues, and was heading back, my car shut off again. No warning, no nothing. Could this really be the oxygen sensor, or does anyone know of what it could be, my car is now currently sitting at my families house. We checked all fuses, wires, put in a new air filter, the coil pack it good....what is causing this?? Thanks in advance for any help on this.
I am a licenced mechanic with decades of experience, and I have never come across something as problematic as the 2002 Hyundai Accent. In my opinion, it is a throwaway car. Once it starts to develop driveability issues, it's not worth fixing, trade it in. In working on a customers Accent, I have replaced the most severely failed parts first, like a catalytic converter that was melted down, and a PCM that became so hot you couldn't touch it. At this point it finally ran, but with many error codes. After addressing each one in turn, it finally ran fairly well, started well and could do 110 KPH on the highway. This lasted for about 2 days, and then back to square one. We have replaced sensors, coil packs, converter and plugs, and when it does run, the converter gets red hot, and the list of codes on my Solus Pro is huge. I have used a Vantage Pro lab scope to check individual sensor outputs and they are within specs, so I am suspecting that the majority of issues I'm experiencing and reading about relate to a malfunctioning on-board computer. I feel so bad for my customer, that I am not going to charge for labour, they have gone broke paying for parts!
Same problem here and all of the above. Took it to a really good mechanic. He replaced the ignition coil. Cylinder was misfiring. The reason for the sputtering. Engine light turned off obviously because the mechanic had reset it. After a week engine light came back on, but no sputtering. Car continues to run great. Haven't had time to get it checked out to see what code or codes come up, but the car runs fine. Weird, but it works. It has been a little over two months now, engine light just stays on. But the car runs great. From what I remember the mechanic told me a code came up that told him all kinds of problems were wrong with the vehicle, but along with one of those codes was a code that helped him identify the potential problem. Basically the computer couldn't actually pinpoint the actually cause and it was confusing. He didn't want me to spend a lot of money paying for all kinds of parts so he figured out which cylinder was actually misfiring. Replaced the ignition coil and tested the vehicle before calling me to come pick it up. Very honest man and extremely nice. If I have anymore trouble, I'll definitely take the car back to him and report back here.
I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent and I've done changed all the sensors in it and then change the starter I've done changed a new battery and I don't know what's wrong with it but this morning at 530 I was driving to work and on the interstate my car engine completely slow down so I pushed my gas pedal to see if I could speed up to get off the highway and its slow down more so I put it in park try starting the car and it turns over like if it's going to start but it doesn't but all the lights and everything work on in the car so I was just wondering what could be the problem
Driving a 2002 accent. My check engine light just came on today while on my way home. It started sputtering a little but over-all ran ok. Got home, opened the hood and reved the engine up only to see white smoke coming fro the exhaust. Next I checked the oil and it smelled like gas. Ughh I just bought this car a week ago. This will be that LAST time I buy any thing that isnt a CHEVY..this p.o.s has to go. Any ideas what could be the problem?
Crankshaft position sensor I have a 2004 Hyundai sonatas and it did the same thing til I changed it
It's insane how similar everyones stories are with this car and all different years. I have an '03 accent and I have had the sputtering and loss of power symptoms. Changed everything, coil packs, spark plugs, battery and all things NEEDED to be changed. When I changed the battery it was perfect, check engine went off it drove brand new. After I filled my tank before going to emissions, I was in line there and it popped on. It wasn't blinking just a steady on, and there was no difference in how it was running. I'm just trying to get it to pass freaking emissions and get it registered to me so I can trade it in shortly. It's not worth it to keep throwing money at this car and hope it works. It was a great first car for two years, but now it is time to say good bye to my piece of crap.
so would the timing belt cause any of these problems?
Timing belt has nothing to do with loss of power. Timing belt is what making your car run. It will either run or don't run. I actually ended up getting all my power back by ramming a rod through my catalyst converter. Now it runs great but my check engine light is still on because i did that. So the best way to get though emission is to change it.
If the belt is just off a tooth or so, the car may be somewhat hard to start but still run, if badly. We replaced ours because it was waaay past due, hoping to get another couple of years from this cruddy car. Expensive mistake. With a reamed out cat, you are waaay over the pollution limit.
I'd like tot share some information about some common problems this car has (Hyundai accent LC 1.5l ). 1.there is an electric connector inside the fuel pump assembly that often gives a problem. To check this you need to disassemble the whole fuel pumpassembly under the back seat and check the small brown connector . just below (inside the fuel pump) the main electric connector on top of the fuel pump. 2. Problems with the MAF sensor. This is easy to take out you can clean it with some standard electronic contact cleaner. Spray this on the wire inside let dry an reassemble. 3. The base of the dipstick tube cracks (vacuum leak) 4. The evap purge valve stays stuck (bad idling!) Reassemble slightly move the screw you can see inside and test as follows breath air in the tube should be closed, breath air in the tube with 12 voltdc on the contacts and it should be open. 5. The exhaust pipe, the flexible part just in front of the second oxygen sensor after the catalytic converter has a hole. This car has proven reliable to me in the send that it has never left me at the side of the road but it has been a headache and pain in the ass for its constant check engine light! At this moment I have checked and repaired everything mentioned above and many more stuff but still have a constant P1128 code, a "CAT NOT READY" with white smoke on idling (but no use of coolant liquid) and so cannot pass emissions test even though this car starts and drives very good every time! Frustrating!
My car just did that and they replaced the ignition coil but still missed so we found out it damaged the catalytic converter
personally I think it's just an inherent problem with the check engine light itself in these cars....my light (2002) has been on, sometimes steady, sometimes blinking but always on for 11 years....car has 92000 miles and runs well....replacing engine mounts soon, don't know if that will affect the light but other than the engine mounts everything else is sound.
Here's one for you. I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent. It is doing the sputtering intermittently and sometimes the check engine light comes on solid when it does this. I have noticed that it seems temperature related. It runs fine on short drives, but get on the interstate and drive for 30 minutes and as soon as you get off the interstate or into slow moving traffic and it starts the sputtering. Mine doesn't lose power unless it sputters for more than a few seconds. The last time it did it, I had just had the car serviced, so I pulled into a parking lot, shut the engine off and checked the oil which was fine. Fired it back up and it ran ok the rest of my trip. I felt it sputter for a split second a couple of times but no check engine light. Of course, I'm thinking its a bad coil. I know it has had previous misfires from cylinder 1 and we replaced the spark plugs. The cylinder one spark plug was a little loose. That was a few months back. I'm taking it into the dealership tomorrow afternoon to tell them what all its doing and have them look at it.
2010 accent. Car just started sputtering, only does it when car is stopped. I have changed one 02 sensor, just did the ignition coil plugs and wires. Car runs great, just the off and on sputtering. There is no check engine light so not sure what good it would do to have a diagnosis run. Any ideas?
my 2010 just started doing the sputtering and check engine light is now sputtering as well. In reading this information, the one thing that i saw that i had in common with some one is that i think i overfilled the gas. I did not think i could do that. I, of course, also put cheap gas in and it might have been cheap for a reason. Tomorrow, im going to buy some octane boost and see if that helps my problem. not sure what to do, really
I have a 2008 Accent and it began to sputter and quit running on my daughter at college. Drove up there today, decided to check coils, they were ok, decided to replace plugs. It was time for new plugs anyway. While changing plugs I found two of them covered with fresh oil. Obviously some gasket or part has failed and oil is getting into cylinders. Taking to professional mechanic friend for him to repair. With all the above fix then sputter and fix again, y'all might have the same problem and are addressing the symptoms not the root cause. Will post again when fixed.
I have a 2011 accent that started a skip when accelerating and when stopped at a light. It only happened when the motor warmed up. No codes popped up at the dealership but told me it probably was a coil pack and to bring it back when they had time to fool with it. Going over my records, they supposedly put new spark plugs in it three months ago when I had the same problem. It fixed the problem. Just recently the same problem reoccurred. Going on the net, I read that someone who had the same problem regapped their spark plugs at .035 instead of the recommended .044, and used dielectric grease on the coil packs. I removed my supposedly new spark plugs to find there where two different types. The first one on the left was a standard type and the rest were original. They never charged me for them so what the hell. I regapped all the ones that were in there at .040 and spread a thin layer of dielectric grease on each coil pack. The skip is no longer present. It has only been a couple of days so we`ll see but so far so good. The total bill was a half hour of my time, two dollars for the dielectric grease and .99 cents for the plug gap gauge. P.S. The standard plugs are twenty bucks which are perfectly fine instead of the near $100.00 for the really not needed iridium ones.
White smoke from the exhaust can be it's burning auto trans fluid with some cars I have heard, so keep an eye on your trans fluid. Engine mounts have nothing to do with engine performance only vibrations etc A catalytic converter is meant to get red hot to burn exhaust emissions, so don't stop in long grass because you can cause bushfires. BTW you do all know you buy a bluetooth device for those cars for 20-30 bucks and an app for an android smartphone for about 5 bucks and diagnose yourselb Bob
2 days ago my ex wife complained about loss of power going up a slight hill This has happened before with her 2006 Accent, On that ocasion it was a dirty air cleaner. This time i checked all the plug leads (wires) with my multimeter and they were all fine. Then I noticed that the battery terminals or posts were fouled by a white powdery substance, cleaned them and the problem disappeared. I haven't hear it's had a further problem, so guys, look to the small things before spending big monry on your cars. Bob
Hey everyone, I find solace in this upsetting and annoying problem that I personally have with my car, in the fact that i'm not alone. I have a 2011 accent Hyundai. I recently gotten it in June and it has seen one other owner. I haven't been able to get in touch with the previous owner to see if he had a similar problem or if this is new. I found my shaking and sputtering began when I was driving. I was going up this huge hill and since my car is a two cylinder, I revved this bad boy like no one's business and in the middle of revving it, that's when the uncontrollable shaking started. My check engine light has been on for awhile because of a wiring issue, however it started to blink on and off when idle. When in motion it would not blink. My acceleration gauge also hovers between 0-1 when idle. I have no idea what is going on. I'm not car savvy at all, but will be taking it to the dealership later today. -Emily
Common Problems That Trigger the P0304 Worn out spark plugs, ignition wires, coil(s), distributor cap and rotor (when applicable) Incorrect ignition timing Vacuum leak(s) Low or weak fuel pressure Improperly functioning EGR system Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor Defective Crankshaft and/or Camshaft Sensor Defective Throttle Position Sensor Mechanical engine problems (i.e.—low compression, leaking head gasket(s), or valve problems Common Misdiagnoses Fuel Injectors Oxygen Sensor(s) Powertrain/Drivetrain problems
I have a 2012 Hyndai Accent Gl. Periodically, the check engine light would flash, then it seemed as though I lost control with my accelerator. As hard as I would press it down, the engine wouldn't drive any harder and I would slowly coast down to about 30Km/h. At idle, my car would bounce - enough to make change jiggle in my change dish. With a quick turn off and on, it usually fixed the problem. That is, for a day or so, then it would be back. I took the car in, they said the "codes were confusing to interpret". First they tried spark plugs, cleaning the internal mounted fuel injector (which was apparently covered in crap), and a gasket replacement. A month later, the problem was back, so they tried replacing the engine CPU. That fixed it for about 2 months, then it was back. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am already $2,700 in the hole, and I am broke. - Randy
have a 2009 accent with about 150xxx miles on it, just replaced alternator and belt, check engine light comes on flashing and then stays on solid when driving, acts like it doesn't want to go at first, idles really rough at stops, 4 spark plugs and a ignition coil replaced less than a year ago .... don't have a lot of money to be fixing things on this unnecessarily! please help
I have a 1998 hyundai accent 1.5l I have replaced all my sensors, alternator, actuator, spark plugs, battery you name it. The car starts but sputters when i try to rev up and dies. When i start it idles smoothly untill you try to give it gas and it backfires horribly throughout the ordeal. Can anyone help?
Check the exhaust pipe. Most have angles after the Cat converter. I had code random misfire on cylinder 2 and found an exhaust leak under the weaved mesh. Dealer wanted to replace a bunch of stuff. I changed the exhaust pipe and problem resolved. May have to clean injectors and spark plugs after pipe is changed. The hole causes excessive gas to be dumped into cylinder fouling it up. Changing electronic and plug only makes error stop temporarily. 60 bucks and 1 hour bets going under the hood for a week.
2009 Accent, Coil went out. The engine will slow down and lite will come on. Get it to dealer asap or better yet, a mechanic and replace coil and plugs.
2013 accent here. Check engine light comes on sometimes n then stays on anywhere from 5min to a couple days. Seems to happen mostly when running the ac and going up steep hills. I at first thought maybe an O2 sensor. Cuz I have had similar problems with other cars in the past n 9 outta 10 times it was the O2 sensor. But more recently I have been noticing a little power loss n a rotten egg smell. Not all the time but enough for me to want to get it fixed asap.So it don't cause any more issues.Plus I'm still paying for the car another 2 or 3yrs. (me n my fiance are using the loan on this car to boost our credit up alil more). Anyhow I am thinking it is the catalytic converter. Due to the symptoms n the smell. Anyone have any thoughts or alternative ideas.
So I have a 2012 hyundai accent hatch back and today for the 2nd time in 4mons right after getting gas the check engine light came on. Barely pulled out of the gas station amd down the road a bit both times when it triggered it. The code the auto place brought up when hooked up makes us think it was the gas that was put in as it was right before and the gas cap was on and tight and nothing else seemed to go wrong at all. No loss of power or shuddering what so ever. But I'm wondering I'm reading on this form about others that their check engine is on but no one mentioned this reason at all. So just in case has anyone experienced getting gas in Amy newer car or hyundai and that happening. It don't seem to be running any harder neither. So I just want advice on if it probably was the gas at the station I got? Should I be more worried?? Both places I fueled at when it happened where on a trip in 2 different parts of the state and almost 4mons apart
The light was cleared also by the way and did not come back on after and it was driven another 2hrs after this last incident.
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