my 2001 dodge ram 1500 van wont start.
my 2001 dodge ram 1500 van wont start. have replaced plugs, plug wires, rotor, and cap.
still no spark at the plug. Stuck.
You did not replace the coil packs...that'd be the thing~
...or power to the coil packs...you might test, there may be a defective switch or "ignition relay" if so equipped~
...lordy how...such a critter does exist~
its the powers to the coil packs ..run a jumper wire from posative battery to coil packs posative main in put lead ..and also make a new ground wire from coil packs
could just buy a new relay...they are cheap.~
its is not the relay .......... The power to the coil packs fuel injector and coil ..has a short , come in thew the back door ...Run a jumper wire from posative battery to the coil packs posative main in put lead ..And also make a new ground wire from coil packs to the frame ............ Then after it starts you will have to trace down the short ... . Why do people respond to stuff with out doing thier home work and make things tougher for the person by sending people on a wild goose hunt and they have no clue ,, this is a major prople with dodge ram vans Fact is thier is a short in the wire harness that feeds the relays ,, so by running a jumper from pasative battery to coil pack you by pass the short and bring power back to the the coil and fuel pump ...But I know you know all this so I will no tell you were to find the short
find your shorting wires with a four dollar tester~ http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-12V-DC-Auto-Car-Circuit-Tester-Heavy-Duty- Test-Light-Check-Electrical-Wires-/350827015891? pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item51aeeb6ed3&vxp=mtr
Ok If you Killed your battery by leaving the door open or lights on and you charge your battery now it turns over but will not start and you are not getting any lights or odometer lights the 1st thing to try is diconect your batter for 20 min and continue charging it while the computer resets. reconect and try again... I got mine started this way but still have no dash lights... where to go from here?
let's get back to basics...the 1/0awg Cable off the battery is attached to the chassis...get out a coarse wirebrush and take it down to metal....both pieces (lug and frame)....then we can rest assured that 300 cold cranking and CLEAN power for the ECM can be realized...fuel pump and ignition too~...man, that's a lot of responsibility for ONE BOLT`~
I got this van running but gauges hardly move and digital odometer not on they worked before the kids left the door open and the battery went dead... any sugestions
get a NEW battery, as this one is most likely older than five...at which point the tin/antimony alloy batteries will stop accepting a charge approximately ten percent per year and will not charge up easily....if yours, my friend isn't taking a charge is because it's OLD....get a new one...you will note the day of it's first charge~
Omg please don't take advice from idiots. #1 do u have spark while cranking the engine. #2 when u turn it ignition forward do u hear a slight hum from back under the van for 3 seconds. If u don't hear hum it's either fuel pump fuse circuit breaker pcm or mice eating it harness. If no spark take off dog house. U will c two hex head bolts take off bolts. This is it crank sensor. Make sure it's clean. Use volt ohm meter check ohms. Should b between 17 and 52 ohms. Put volt meter on ac Millivolts. Connect to the connector of the crank sensor. Then shake a steel screw driver in front of it. This will induce an ac current which u will c on it volt meter. If it checks out theirs a coil pick up no d rule under the distributor rotor. U can crank the engine with the volt meter attached. Same principle. U should c ac voltage. Last but not least check two c if u have 'vetss system. Built in key alarm cuts add relay. Most engine management systems r a already hot. Pcm provides a ground. U start jumping wires and u will fry ur pcm.
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