where is my fuel pump relay located for a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Mega Cab 5.7 D engine
I can't speak directly to the 2006 model, but can tell you that anything between a 2007 and 2012 locates the fuel pump relay inside the TIPM box (your fuse box under the hood). Unfortunately, this relay is a HUGE source of trouble for a LOT of Jeep, Dodge and Chrysler owners! Dodge will NOT replace the relay as the TIPM is considered a non-repairable unit. I'd wager you are having starting problems that are probably getting worse. Cranks, but won't fire, right? Dodge will charge you between $1,200 and $1,500 to replace the entire TIPM box. Then a few years later, they'll want to do it again. The fix is to use 2 "add-a- line" fuse connectors to connectors to connect M7 (accessory power port fuse) to M25 (fuel pump relay fuse). How do I know? I just did it about ten minutes ago and it works! Doing this provides power to the pump and only when the ignition is turned on. Costs me about $15 bucks for the parts (AutoZone) and required about ten minutes of effort.
I have a 2007 RAM 1500 HEMI and it will crank but not start. I took off the air box and sprayed starter fluid into the throttle body and the truck started for a few seconds. So do I run the jumper between spot 7 and 25 in the fuse box? Because it says that 7 is "reverse lockout sol batt srt10" and 25 is "pwr mirror"? Please excuse my ignorance on this but we just had a baby and do not have money to take my truck to a shop or dealership. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
Did anyone ever help you with this on which fuses are the issues that need jumped?
I have the same issue. ....started today. and I looked at my fuse box and its just like inkedgorilla stated. it has nothing to do with the power mirrors and the reverse lockout solenoid. all the answers I could find had a completely different fuse box. I have the one that is slanted at a 40 degree angle not the one with tons of fuses in it. I looked at the website that everyone is talking about that shows the jumpers verticalvisions.com and it does not relate to the 2007 or 2008 dodge rams so I don't know what type of vehicle they are working on but it isn't this one. any help in this matter would be much appreciated and if anyone could tell me where the fuel pump relay is located that would help tremendously because it is not under the hood with the other fuses and it isn't in the driver side under the dash either
im having the same problem i have the slant type as well
Okay, there are apparently differences between fuse boxes (The TiPM box), dependent upon model year of the Dodge Truck. My 1500 series hemi is a 2011 model. I still think this problem exists for a lot of Dodge trucks, ranging in model year from 2007 up to around 2012 The fuel pump relay that everyone is looking for is not easily accessible. It is 'hidden' on the bottom of the circuit board that holds your standard fuses. To see it, you would have to take the fuse box apart. Seeing it won't help as it is not a replaceable item anyway. Dodge does not sell this soldered-on relay. Dodge just wants to sell you an entire new TIPM box at around $1,500 bucks. The problem is a lack of electrical power to your fuel pump (which is located inside the fuel tank). You need to get power to that pump. The bad relay normally provides a 20 amp power source to the pump. Since you can't fix/replay the relay, you have to bypass it. On my 2011 model, the bypass fix was to jumper between M7 and M25. Your fuse box, depending on model year, may be different. Doesn't matter. Somewhere in your fuse box is a fuse that provides 12 volts to an accessory power port in your cab. Find that fuse! Next, find the fuse that provides power to your fuel pump. Mine is labeled M25. Yours may be different. Doesn't matter, just find it. Now... you need to build a small jumper cable to connect your accessory power port fuse to your fuel pump fuse. To do this, you'll have to make a small wiring harness. To build the harness, you'll need some automotive wire (I think it was 14 gauge). Probably not more than 8-12 inches, depending on where your two fuses are located relative to each other. You'll also two "add-a- line" fuse connectors. You can buy these at any automotive parts store. The "add-a-line" connectors are small connectors that allow you to connect two fuses (side by side) into the same fuse port in your fuse box. Use the wire to connect two of these "add-a-line" connectors to each other. Now... get yourself four 20 amp automotive fuses. Use the same style that is already in your "accessory power port" fuse position. Use the four 20 amp fuses to fill the "add-a-line" connectors. You'll end up with a short wiring harness that has two 20-amp fuses on each end. The "add-a-line" connector has a standard, single, fuse port connector on its bottom. Unplug the original fuse from the "accessory power port" location and plug in one end of your "add-a-line" harness. Now... remove the original fuse from your "fuel pump" fuse location and plug-in the other end of your "add-a-line" harness. You've just connected 12 volts of power from the "accessory power port" position to your fuel pump. The reason for the "add-a-line" dual fuse arrangement is so that you can continue to provide power to the "accessory power port" in your cab. Now pay attention... this is really important. Some Dodge trucks have two or more "accessory power ports" in the cab. You have to connect to a power port fuse location that is only "on" when the ignition key is turned on . Some power ports stay on all the time, even when the truck isn't running. Don't use one of those! If you do, you're fuel pump will run all the time and quickly drain your batter. Make sure you are connecting to a fuse that provides power to an accessory power port which is only on when the ignition is on. Sorry for the long answer, but it takes a lot to explain the details. In practice, you could build the harness and fix the problem a lot faster than it took me to write this all out. Best luck!
Just a follow up to my last entry. If you are still having problems locating the fuses of interest and/or aren't sure how to fix this problem, here is another option. Go to your Dodge dealer. Tell them you want them to install a bypass wiring harness to fix your busted relay. Dodge KNOWS about this problem AND they know how to fix it using the bypass I've described. They just don't tell people that because it is much more profitable to sell you a new $1,500 TIPM box (your fuse box) than to make and install this simple work-around. Trust me.. they know how to do it. This problem and the fix I've described has been around for several years. I performed this repair on my truck about a year ago. Last week, one of the "add-a-line" fuses burned out and the truck wouldn't start. I immediately knew what had happened. Popped the hood; replaced the fuse and bingo... truck started right up. Other than that one bad fuse, I've had no problems or side-effects from using the harness I described above. That harness cost me about $12 bucks to make and took about ten minutes to install. Much better deal than the $1,500 TIPM that Dodge wants to sell you. Oh... one other thing. That new TIPM Dodge sells. It has the same failure point as the original. The fuel pump relay will eventually fail on the new one too and you'll need another $1,500 box! The reason for the failures is corrosion. The bottom of the circuit board that holds the relay isn't sealed in the TIPM box. It is basically open and exposed to environmental contaminants (road salt, dirt, etc). That's why it fails. Again... good luck!
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