how can you turn off the anti theft device
Why do you ask? Are you trying to steal a car?
Good response tenspeed. Every time that question appears I think the same thing, and would not tell them if I knew, and it seems to get asked a lot
No I am not trying to steal a car. I have a 2002 chevy Malibu that has cost me over $2,000. to try get it fixed. I think I am being taken advantage of These guys have supposedly replaced practically everything ,in the car My car turns over and over but will not start. I think it has something to do with the anti theft device. Can you tell me how to fix this
Turn the ignition in the on position leave it there for 10minutes once the theft system stops blinking turn the ignition in the off position then give it a try it should crank right up if you have the owners manual it's in there I had this issue I thought something was wrong with my fuel pump good luck
You can do that and wait 10 minutes but it will occur more frequently and GM will soak you for an ignition switch or a Body Control Module(about $400 each) and the problem could still reappear. Please go to the following site. You need to bypass the antitheft system. Who is going to steal a 2003 car ?? I had the same issue for about 2 months before I found this site. You basically create at 2kohm circuit between your yellow and black wire on the ignition switch. Once the code is learned by your body control module you'll never have a problem. You will need to remove radio, and position to side and unbolt the ignition switch and create the circuit. It will take you about an hour of your time and about $4.50 for the circuit and post at Radio Shack. God Bless Berger for his post!!! http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/
This stinks because my car is doing this again and they have no record of a problem with the Malibu. They just don't want to fix all our cars. They suck
I am suffering the same problem. Don't know what is causing it, and I don't know where the antitheft light is located. There is a symbol when you turn the key on, but it goes out after 30 seconds or so.
Im having the same problem, really pisses me off, was just in the shop a month ago cost $800, their has to be an easy fix for this. Ive already tried turning it off for 10 min, then 15 min and turning the headlights off, trying anything I see on the net.
ok I do think I got the auto theft turned off, put the key in to unlock the door, open door shut door and locked it back. so when I open the door a lot of clicking went on all the lights went out! now how do I start the car, think I have really screwed up, help me people! gosh
@ lynly, either take a battery booster and in rapid succession with the positive terminal hooked up tap the negative terminal a few times this will eventually reset the vehicle to at least illuminate again. As for the retarded anti-theft snafu, Im still working on that one as my wifes car died while driving because of it!
I have this very same problem for months now. It started out just not starting & I constantly had to play around with the key in different positions. NOW, sometimes while I am driving it shuts off!! Does Chevy think THIS isn't dangerous??? I thought I was the only one having this problem until I found forums with this problem going back to 2002!! I have loved this car until this started & now don't think I would ever buy another Chevy product!! Their lack of response to this issue shows me they care nothing about the safety of the people driving their cars!!!
It gets asked a lot because it's a universally crappy feature of this car. I had this problem repeatedly, and when I googled anti-theft problems a whole page of 2003 Chevy Malibu pages came up. Initially I replaced the fuel pump, and the problem kept happening. YouTube gave me the help I needed. And yeah, no one in their right mind would steal this car.
I HAVE BEED TRYING TO BYPASS THE THIEF SYSTEM FOR A TIME. SO THE ENGINE AND TRANY WILL WORK IN A SAND RAIL AND NO LUCK. IM THINKING THAT NOW IT IS JUST BEST TO JUNK CHEVY'S AND STAY WITH FORD AND DODGE FOR TOY AND HOT RODS. IT SURE SEEMS AFTER THIS MALIBU THAT IS WHAT GM WANTS. LIKE JAP CARS THROW AWAYS!
Did not work I will keep trying
Why I was trying to shut off anti theft system, cuz the 2011 car kept locking up, carried it to Chevy place. 1st time they said it was because my son had a stereo speaker put in, is what started all this mess to begin w so they say! Cost $1200 the first time to fix it, month later it started all over again. So I thought if we could undo auto theft we would b alright! Not! It still cost another $1600 to fix and re wire the the car! Speaker had blew up and it messed everything up in the car, so to all teenagers I wouldn't put a stereo system in a Malibu that's for sure! Cars aren't built like they use to me, to much heavy technology!
My daughters 2003 Malibu would crank but would not start. I noticed that none of the dash idiot lights would come on and the fuel gage didn't move I just disconnected the positive cable on the battery, turned the key to the start to drain any juice from the system. then i removed the key. reconnected the battery put the key back into the switch and turned the key to accy Waited a min and then the idiot lights came back on and the fuel gage worked. turned key to start and engine fired right up.
I had problems with my 2002 Malibu for sometime starting it, I did the 10 minute thing about 50 times and it worked. Now the lodgt won't flash so I can do the 10 minute thing .how do I get the theft system to flash again
I have an 08 malibue. A week or two ago my antitheft light came on. It was for two days and then it went away. I had now issue with the functionality of the car though. So after a while no problems, no light... this moring I turned the ignition and the starter kept spinning. Like it was stuck. The car was fully powered up but it was still starting. So I turned the key back and removed it only to see that the starter kept going. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. I reconnected the battery after 30 min and the starter still turns over and over. Could this just be the antitheft or do you think its a starter or solenoid problem?
Its a starter problem. the solenoid is stuck
I had to laugh at that first question i read. How to disarm anti theft alarm. Cuz thats mysame question, and NO im not trying to steal a car, the car, its my car. I just bought it 2 days ago, only a few times have i successfully unlocked the car where the alarm didnt go off. Every other time, it never fails, it sounds the alarm as soon as i get the door open. There has been a few different things ive tried. Going into the stereo where fancy settings are i can go to alarm and select off. By pressing and holding the bottom turn dial, until it displays the word settings. This can only be done while key is in ignition and turn to ACC. Okay so its in the off setting, everytime ive went into the settings where alarm control is its set back to on. Ive tried sticking key in door just unlocking it, in door locking it then unlocking it. If someone can help please. Its embarrasing when your holding the keys to your car opening door and alarm goes off. PLEASE HELP
What if you have a a car that you bought used and you later found out that the car did have a anti-theft device that was removed? Apparently, the original owner removed it and did not tell anyone that this car had an anti-theft device. I found this out when I was having a problem six years ago with the car not starting, I thought that it was the battery. That is when I found out that my car used to have an anti-theft device. They said that they knew because there were lights on under the dash, so the box or whatever they said was not removed. I told them that I never had an anti-theft on y car. I was stunned to hear this. I checked with the Saturn dealer, and gave them my VIN on the car. They said that if there was an alarm, it was not a factory installed one by GM/Saturn. So, the previous owner had it installed somewhere. I got this car from a trusted mechanic, and he was always immaculate with his cars, and apparently, he did not know about this. Then a few months ago when the car did stall and I could not re-start it. I called AAA to have it towed, thinking that it was the battery or a mechanical. The AAA tow driver got it started, and thought it may be the fuel pump. AAA car care said that nothing showed in the diagnostics and the fuel pump was fine. They were able to get it started, and let me take it home, at no charge. I took it back two more times about the same problem about the car being hesitant when starting, and again, they found no problem. This time I decide to take the car somewhere else. When they went to start it to take it in their garage it would not start. They looked under the car, and saw that whatever the starter is connected is faulty. They were able to start the car, but it was hesitant. So, I got a new starter. That was two weeks ago. Now, over the last two days, my car started to do the same thing, hesitating when starting, so after I start the care, I need to accelerate to give it gas, so that it won't stall. I was googling questions about cars stalling, and something came up with "Is it the Fuel Pump or Your Anti-Theft System locking up"? So, that got me thinking about anti-theft devices. I would like to know if a person has an anti-theft removed from a car, will the car eventually have problems starting? I have 2000 Saturn SL2. This problem is the only real problem that I have had with this car. One of the indicator lights on my car does say security. I don't know if that is from the anti-theft device that was removed or it that is something else.
I ran into this problem with my 2003 Chevrolet Malibu, and it got worse and worse. Ultimately, I fixed the problem by completely bypassing the anti-theft system. Please bear in mind that if you attempt this procedure, you do so at your own risk. This procedure worked for me, but if it hadn’t I would have had to take my car to a qualified mechanic and paid whatever it cost to fix my mess, and also to correct the original problem. If you do decide to use these instructions, it’s pretty certain that your anti- theft headaches will be over, but you’ll also completely defeat your Passlock anti-theft system. If you think you want to try this fix, read through these directions completely. Make sure you understand exactly what you’re going to do. I went so far as to go through the whole process one time without cutting the wires and inserting the dummy sensor, just to make sure I knew what wires I was looking for, and that I could get at everything. Lastly, if you’re driving something other than a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu, I have no idea that these instructions will match up exactly with your car’s hardware. Proceed at your own risk 1) Purchase a pack of 1/8 watt, 22000 ohm resistors (Radio Shack catalog number 55049131, a 12-position European style mini terminal strip (Radio Shack catalog number 274-680, a small pack of twist-on wire connectors (Radio Shack has an assortment pack, catalog number 64-3057). Although you're only going to need two so your local hardware store will undoubtedly sell a small pack of narrow gauge connectors. Your total expenditure so far, less than $10 bucks. 2) Collect these tools; ratchet wrench, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 7mm socket, standard (flat) screwdriver, side-cut wire cutters, needle- nose pliers, sharp hobby knife or sharp pocket knife. 3) Before doing anything with the car, prepare the resistor side of your dummy circuit. Using a coping saw, cut two terminals off wither end of the terminal strip. 4) Using the needle-nose pliers, bend the wire “legs” of the resistor very close to the actual resistor so that you’ve created what looks like a “U”. Now bend the ends of the wire legs back so as to double them. Cut off any excess lead wire. 5) Insert each “leg” into one connector on one side of the terminal strip, and tighten down the screws. 6) Using the 8mm socket, disconnect the ground terminal on your battery 7) Using the screwdriver, pop off the bezel around the ignition switch. Set this aside. It’s small, don’t lose it. 8) Using the screwdriver, pop off the bezel around the ignition switch/radio/heat/AC pod. You'll have to work your way around the bezel. Take your time and be gentle, but it will all come loose. 9) Insert your key into the ignition switch, and turn it to the "ACC" position. Step on your brake, and pull your shift lever all the way back. 10) Disconnect the cigarette lighter by pressing the grey tabs, and gently sliding the wired connector out of the lighter. Set aside the bezel. You won’t need it for a while. 11) Using the 7mm socket, remove the three screws holding in the radio. Put the screws somewhere you’ll be able to find them later. 12) Slide the radio out. It may hang up a bit, but by a little wiggling, you’ll pull it free. DO NOT disconnect the radio. Some of these vehicles come with a radio anti-theft device, and if you disconnect the radio without turning off that anti-theft feature, your radio will never work again. In any case, you have enough wire to move it out of the way. 13) Put the car back into “PARK” Switch the key to the “off” position, and remove it from the ignition switch. 14) Using your 10mm socket, remove the two screws that are holding the ignition switch in place. On my car, these were pretty tight, and I couldn’t get enough leverage with a nut driver, so had to use the ratchet and socket. Put the screws wherever you put the other screws. 15) Work the ignition switch out of it’s location and get it over into the big opening the radio came out of. You’re going to have to push and twist, but be gentle. There are probably three separate bundles of wires coming out of the ignition switch. You’re looking for a bundle of three wires, which are only going to be visible once the switch is out of its seat in the dash and in full view in the radio opening. The wires you’re interested in are towards the upper left side of the ignition, and are probably wrapped in cloth electrical tape that will fall apart when you start pulling it off. The three wires are black, yellow, and white. 16) Once you have positively identified the three-wire bundle, and have exposed the three wires, use the side-cut wire cutters to snip the YELLOW and the BLACK wires. You’re only going to place twist-on connectors on the wires going back into the ignition switch, so you don’t have to worry about having much length on that side. Make your cut to give you maximum length on the other side, the side which runs AWAY from the ignition switch. 17) Screw on the wire connectors, one each to the black wire, and the yellow wire, and push those wires out of your way. You’re not going to need them anymore. 18) Strip away about 3/8” of insulation on the “other side” of the black wire and the yellow wire. 19) Insert the exposed end of the yellow wire into either of the available connectors in the terminal strip, and tighten down the screw on that wire. 20) Insert the exposed end of the black wire into the remaining open connector in the terminal strip, and tighten the screw on that wire. 21) You’ve now constructed a dummy security circuit which is always going to transmit a consistent 2200 ohm reading to your BCM. If you’ve done everything right, you no longer have a functioning anti-theft Passlock system. 22) Re-connect the battery. 23) Attempt to start the car. It’s almost a certainty that the car will not start at this point. It has to “re-learn” the 2200 ohm signal. Leave the car in the on position for the usual ten minutes. When the theft light stops flashing, turn the key to the off position and attempt to start again. If you’re just a little lucky, like I was, the car will start. If not, you’ll go through the re-learn process again. You may have to do it a third time, but at that point, IF you’ve done everything right, you should be good to go. Once the car starts, turn it off, and remove the key from the ignition. 24) GENTLY replace the ignition switch into its correct placement and screw it back in. Replace the radio and screw that back in. 25) Insert the key into the ignition switch, turn it to the “ACC” position, step on the brake and pull the shifter all the way back. 26) re-connect the cigarette lighter, and replace the radio / heater bezel. 27) Put the car back in Park, and remove the key from the ignition. 28) Replace the Ignition switch bezel. You are finished. It’s very important that you take you time and identify the correct wires. Make sure that you carefully strip the insulation and don’t accidently cut length off he wires as you only have so much to work with.
The above was accomplished using the instructions found at the following website: http://www.bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/index.shtml
All I know is I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu that I purchased used. About a month after I bought it...it refused to start in a Walmart parking lot. It wanted to turn over but wouldn't. I didn't notice the theft system light was on. Everyone said it was the fuel pump. Called AAA and took it back to the garage/repair shop I bought it from. He said it was the ignition switch and he replaced it. This was in June. It cost me $359.74 (and I live on $839/month Social Security so that was quite a chunk of change. Today (September 12, 2015) I get in and the car keeps bucking/lurching/stuttering (not sure what to call it) when accelerating. Visited with my aunt and when I came to come back home this light was on! Once I got home...I shut the car off and it started right away when I tried it. BUT...having been stranded the first time about 25 miles from home without AAA...I was scared. It was a hairy trip home! Now it's parked but I'm afraid to go anywhere! I'm going to call the mechanic where I bought it and see what he has to say. Does this have anything to do with the 2003 Chevy Malibu recall I got a notice about?
More than likely it has to do with the recall. Of course, they finally confessed to the problem after how many of us have had the fuel pump replaced. Now my issue is that because of the factory installed alarm, that we did not know we had, the horn won't stop blaring. The last time I drove this car the horn started blowing as I made a left turn for no reason what so ever. I want to give my teenager the car but I am hesitant to do so.
I had gotten a recall for my 2003 Malibu back in April or May, I believe. Wow, was I excited...thought the death trap was FINALLY going to be taken care of. You know what the recall did??? They inserted a plastic plug into the plastic top of the car key! Chevy thinks these cars are shutting off because the oblong slot at the top of the key (where it goes onto the key ring) caused an imbalance & that was causing the key to somehow jostle out of the on position. The plastic plug turned the oblong slit into a nice round hole that just fits a key ring. I don't about any of the rest of you, but when my car shuts off...the key is ALWAYS in the on position. Never once has it jumped back to the ACC or off position! I told the mechanic at the Chevy dealer this & told him I did not think this was going to fix the issue. He assured me it would...about a mile from my house, with the brand new plastic insert newly installed in my key...the car shut off. I am extremely disgusted!
I want to thank everyone on this site for this information. I paid 100 for a new ignition control module and that still didn't work. It was the fing anti theft deal. If my Fiance didn't google it we would not have known. thank you all!!! It fixed the problem.
cherylandfred: I paid $359 for a new ignition and a just last Friday it happened again. Luckily I wasn't far from home and have AAA! I took the car to the dealer for the recall key thing...and so far so good! FINGERS CROSSED. I'm still scared every time I drive it. My mechanic told me that this is a problem with a lot of makes and models of car that have the key/ignition on the dashboard and not on the steering column. I believe this was the problem with my Alero (it kept shutting off when driving and nobody knew what was wrong with it. I got a lot of "it could be" but I am not in the financial position to be able to put money into "what ifs".
I've dealt with this issue for at least 5 years now. Let it sit on acc until the light stops flashing, then turn it to the off position for two minutes, then it starts right up. Thing is, it's just dangerous if you need to leave in a hurry. I noticed that the problem started after my key fob died. I just paid $177 to have it replaced and programmed. I hope this will keep the problem from reoccurring. Fingers crossed.
Follow up.....just wasted my money, it happened again today....
First, you have to determine if your ATS is sensing all the exteriors, doors, hood, trunk, are all the locks working properly. GM pass key products fail for a number of reason, (broken wires in key cylinder, OEM Radio removed, chip damage or missing), most times this can be fixed by inserting a resister between two wires to confuse the alarm. The root of the problem is most of the time (a lot), the door lock actuators stop working (it only takes one door not to work), this tells the alarm that it's being tampered with, this causes the no start situation and the aggravation you're having. That's the first thing, do all your door locks work like they should? Repair your door locks if you can ( financially ), or use the resister. Hope this info helps someone
My car has done this 3 times. Ive tried the methods. It shuts down completely. I jump it and its fine. My battery is fulky charged. Its a security shut down lock out. Jumping it has always worked . I can reprogram the key. But now its happening 1 time a month. P.s. my mother in laws car does this all the time. The first time my car did it was after she borrowed it for the weekend. I believe she cranks too hard. I will try the 3×10 minutes method. Im also going to look for a recall or submit on to chevy since i see this is a common problem
P.s. mine is a 2011
I found on a lot of the 2002 & 2003 gm products the connections @ the body control module have to be adjusted to make a better connection.Simply with a dental pick gently @ the harness side,at the plug terminals, probe the connectors so they are closer,99% of the time this is lot of your no start conditions, including dashboard & alarm intermittant malfunctions.I have been very successful with this procedure.GOOD LUCK
Okay so theft-lock is a serious problem and has left me in a number of dangerous situations because of this "safety" feature. It was only in the 00-03 models because it was obviously a terrible idea, but here's how you fix it: 1. You try turning the car on, it hesitates and therefore doesn't turn over. You have just activated theftlock. 2. Take a deep breath, you're going to be there for 10-15 minutes. 3. TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. This is important. 4. Put it back in and without trying to turn the car over, put the key in the "on" position. The words Theft Lock will be blinking on the left side of your dash, if theft lock is activated. If it is not there or is solid, theft lock hasn't been activated and you don't have to worry about the rest of this. 5. Leave the key in the ignition for 10-15 minutes until the words "Theft Lock" are no longer blinking on your dash. (I recommend keeping a spare set of keys in your car for this, so you don't have to sit in your freezing/hot/unsafe car and you can lock it). 6. Don't do anything to your car during the above time. If you take your keys out before the blinking stops, you will have to put them back in and wait another 10 minutes. 7. When the blinking has stopped, "Theft Lock" will be gone from your dash or solid, doesn't matter which. TAKE THE KEYS OUT and now your car will start. 8. Curse the creators of this infernal machine, and pray for the day you can buy a different car. By the way, this has happened one or two times at an auto shop when they were fixing something else. Most mechanics don't know about Theft Lock and will just about break your car trying to fix it. I've also had this kill my battery (overtime and in the short term). So if you have an old or weak battery, it's a good idea to manually shut off your lights when you leave the key in the car. And when it starts back up, be sure you run the car long enough for it to recharge the battery. Good Luck!
Heads up people. Don't bother getting a ford to get around this anti theft bs. Happening with my mustang for a week now.
My Malibu has been a great car, pretty cheap to fix, and the key would come out of the ignition after it was started. It was a "neat" trick where I could start the car and pull the key out, then I could lock the doors. But now the theft system light came on a few days ago and I was stranded until I could google how to reset it. The next business day I called my regular mechanic and he told me that the tumbler would be replaced with the recall. WRONG! I should have done WAY more research. After sitting at the dealership for an hour and a half, I finally find out that they only put some little piece of plastic in the keyhole on the key. Probably took a whole 30 seconds for them to do it and it promptly fell out. What a joke of a "recall". The key can still be pulled out of the ignition and the theft light came on again.
I put the resistor in the ignition circuit as described above. It worked fine for a couple months then started doing the same thing with not starting. Anybody else experience this and what did they do to fix again?
I tried everything and my Malibu kept having the problem and it began happening closer and closer together! So I found a used car dealer and traded the car even up for a 2007 Ford Taurus. The Ford has some problems but after being quoted a price to fix the Malibu in the thousands (replace computer and wiring)...I figured I got the better of the deal. Guy I bought car from couldn't hold in his elation at "taking advantage of an old lady" but I just smiled and took the Ford and papers to the DMV before the Malibu acted up. Ford has the check engine light on (had it put on the machine and it came back as catalytic converter) it needs tires and the battery died and needs replacing but ...I still think I got the better of the deal!
When your GM starts and stalls also the radio dose not work an the key fob is also inop it is the terminals in the plug @ the body control module shape them so they have a tight connection on the pins of the module Master Mechanic RENY'S AUTOMOTIVE INC Grandville Mi 616-243-3323 always here to help anyone
Get the car started, get a new key. Key may be wiggling (metal wears) in ignition switch while starting and triggering the anti theft..
Thanks for the info all. I just got my car started by useing the method luckily I was home.
My 2004 Chevy Malibu Classic was doing the same thing. Had to let it sit for 10 min just about every time I tried to drive it. I was going to try to bypass the anti-theft system until I saw Wayneees post on here about his daughters car. As others had stated, we had already replaced the fuel pump, checked the ignition, etc but nothing worked. I followed Wayneees' advice of taking the battery cables loose, let the power drain for about 10 minutes, reconnected, and now the car is starting up every time! Thank you so much for the useful and money saving information!
I have an 2008,Chevy Malibu it has all power windows go up and down.. But will not start, turn over or click.. Its nothing.. I have a Lil car with a lock on my dash.. Chevy dealers gave me a code.. And it worked on my car.. U hook a battery charger up not jumper cables. Has to be a charger.. Turn Ur key on, don't start it and wait 10 mins then turn key off for 3 secs then back on for 10 mins then back off for 3secs then back on 10 mins.. Then turn Ur car completely off then start.. Should crank right up its a 40 min process.. Hope it works for y'all.. Like I said that's for a 2008 Chevy LT every make has different code.. Year wise..
I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu and the theft system kept blinking and my car wouldn't start at all. One day I went to the mall when getting ready to go home my car did not start I had the Sears auto repair move my car to their repair. Anyway I was finally told that it would take 10 minutes with the key on ACC to start again. And I did that when it stopped again and it started just like the repair man told me to do. I still don't know why this is happening. I think the repair told me but I can't remember what to do with my car. It still does it. .
Factory radios in GM vehicles, turn radio to off. Turn key to acc position. Push and hold the tune button 10 seconds and the settings appear, including disarming this alarm system. Use scan to see all settings. Who woulda thought?? Try it. :)
I have a 2007 maxx. First check the starter. On my car the starter motor went twice in the last 3 year's. The motor of the starter cranks the car over. But starts drawing so much current the battery cant keep up. It takes to much cold cranking amps to fire the starter. Allso install a after market car starter 55.00 at advanced auto. Or have one installed. It comes with a key chip by pass. Make sure it has it. So you can make a cheap key with no chip at wally world or any hardware store. Before any of this. Have car scanned for codes. This worked for my car. So you get no starts
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