1977 g10 pulley diagram, serpentin belt routing, etc...

220

Asked by Jan 08, 2014 at 12:01 PM about the Chevrolet Chevy Van

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Wondering the layout of the pulleys on my g10, two of the pulleys don't have the belt routed through them so they do nothing, and idea why?

28 Answers

....wow...V-belts...not impossible, but see if this resembles your configuration~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

do you have air conditioning? a wretched smog pump? these are going to change which belts you need~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

this is a much sexier drawing, but may not be your engine~?

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
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I do have a/c but it does not work the heater was blowing air yesterday then stopped today.... Thanks for the diagrams!

2 of 2 people found this helpful.
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These diagrams are similar but not sure If they are the same

2 of 2 people found this helpful.
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By the last one you posted the left picture it seems my ac and air pump pulleys are the ones not in the loop.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

that 1977 Van has got to be a son-of-a-bugger to work on too, I'm sure...do you not have heat because the engine never reaches operating temperature? I'd replace the T-stat to a 195...freshie~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
Best Answer

wish I had a "make-out" chevy van....and that's alright with me~

2 of 2 people found this helpful.
220

That makes sense so it wont blow heat till it reaches operating temp? It does seem to run awfully cool either that or the thermostat it bunk.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

so it's the blower....damn, does it work on only one speed (the highest) or NONE speed?

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

you just aren't feeling the air because it isn't warm (I suspect) as far as not engaging until it reaches temp....seems not likely...gotta be the air temp...blowers are pretty silent~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
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Yesterday it worked fine on two speeds , Then this morning just nothing at all.....

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It is not blowing I could hear it blowing before and feel the air now its almost non existent .. New to this engine trying to take it all in and figure it all out.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

...another thing that will happen as this will NOT have the correct air-fuel ratio...and 77 wasn't as fussy about it but if you're runnin' rich on account of it (hardly noticable in the cold temps) the catalytic converter and the EGR and all manner of smog stuff gets clobbered up with the rich condition...besides your gas mileage will go WAY down if the t-stat is jammed open or corroded with rust-dust from you panic refill with hose water~?....just get a new tsat 195 and a coolant flush and your heat should come right back...(and the defrosters too)~

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

speaking of defrosters...the A/C should be engaged when you're defrosting the windshield...so if it's in the budget get your air conditioning serviced~ the ability to see may cause a crash without it~

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thanks

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

ok...it's either the blower resistor pack (plenty of u-tube vids) or the switch.. ...was able to find one for the C-10...not the G-10....suspect they are the same ____http://www.1aauto.com/search? words=blower+resistor&MAKE=7&MODEL=1510

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be61A67ltP4

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

https://www.google.com/#q=1977+Chevrolet+Chevy+Van+blower+switch&tb m=shop&spd=17849127049676462416

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

okay the switch would be much easier to replace...can you "dick around" with it to make it come on if you hold it in a weird position? if so would blame this switch....if not, I'm afraid someone's gonna be scurryin' around contortin' the spine to get that job done....in our part of town there's a drunkard who works for beer~...end of problem here, but you might be a scrunchin' and a strainin' to change out that resistor pack...it ain't easy, I tell ya~....be ducking doing this job for the last seven years on my Toyota pickup...waaaa, hardly use the thing~ (dump runs)~~~unsavory as that sounds~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
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shitty thanks for the help I played with the switch no such luck....

3 of 3 people found this helpful.

don't know your location...but get into a warm comfortable zone...do as the A1 auto did and disassemble till you can remove it~....good luck...have a hot chocolate to get amped up for the job~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
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much appreciated!

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

....okay, before we get into this any further...check your fusebox...see if the blower fuse is kaput...may as well change the blower motor if it's shortin''-- does anything smell burnt around there?...just asking...a pleasure serving you...the highlight of my day, no doubt~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

the weather has been cool....the MAIN connection for the ground probably is full of corrosion by now...add to that the heating and cooling and the high amperage has bound to have created a layer of corrosion between the black 1/0 battery cable and the frame where it bolts to....take a wirebrush and make it all shiny and ready to accept three hundred amps the chassis too~ bolt them together for restored power....thinking because of the cold weather the main GROUND connection just ain't makin' it~ this is probably going to fix your blower which is probably suffering from undervoltage~

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
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so I put new battery post clamps in the old ones were very corroded put a new batter in and cleaned up the ground where the battery is grounded to the frame there was another ground on the same connection I cleaned not sure what it is for.

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

that is your fuseable link...connects to ground and snorches first in the event of a dead-short...or backwards jumpin' (for god's sake NO)~

3 of 3 people found this helpful.

and the blower works.....(of course)~....yay, for us~!

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

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