2004 chevy cavalier clutch pedal stuck on floor

20

Asked by Jun 27, 2014 at 06:47 PM about the Chevrolet Cavalier

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

First time my clutch pedal stuck to floor I was driving in heavy traffic in town I was real lucky I didn't crash.  It was the hydrolic hose going from master cylinder to slave cylinder. Expensive hose purchased from dealership. It worked better than ever for one month-now it has happened again. I have. the master cylinder replaced, the person working on my car finally gets it to work-not real well it was sticky. It lasts for around 5 miles, sticks to floor again.  I take it to professional shop to have it bleed I am charged $30 and it's working.  I get 22 miles from home and it happens again!!! It gets bleed, bleed, bleed some more and nothing gets better.  I speed shift it home in the middle of the night to avoid traffic. I have it back home yet that is as far as its got.  I don't know what to do or how to do it. I definitely would appreciate some encouragement and help with this please.

3 Answers

12,085

After all the work and replacing of parts, is there any fluid on the lines or under the vehicle that may indicate a leak? Has the servo at the clutch been checked or even the clutch itself? You may have some bad springs on the clutch plate. What pushes the clutch back up? A spring or hydrological presser? When you take it in for bleeding or checking, is the fluid level still the same level? If it does not need fluid, it is not a leak. I can only assume all the linkage, springs, and attachments have been checked. If it is good leading to the clutch, then the transmission needs to be pulled and look at the clutch parts themselves.

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.
20

Thank you Mark, I would've got back to you sooner but I lost my internet connection for a couple days. There isn't a leak. It's hydrolich. When you say the transmission needs to be pulled back are you referring to taking a look at the slave cylinder?

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
12,085

It's John, and if you need to pull the slave cylinder out, I'm not sure if you pull the trans, but to replace the clutch plate if it is bad, yes, the transmission needs to be taken out or pulled back to get the clutch out. If these people know the history of your problems, they should be looking at everything. The hoses, one replaced, the linkage for snugness and non slipping, the slave cylinder, and the clutch plate. Like I said, if there are springs on the plate that are broken or weak, the clutch will not release or engage. If other springs are good, and it hits on them, it will work. Unfortunately to really rule out the clutch plate, it has to be pulled unless there is an inspection plate that will allow someone to manually check the springs on the plate. The salvo pushes the clutch fork against the throwout bearing, which engages the fingers on the barring which is shaped like a doughnut around the transmission shaft, the fingers engage or push against the springs on the clutch plate and disengage it. If one or more of the springs are weak or broken, the clutch will not release, and the clutch peddle may not return. I'm not really an transmission person, but that is all there is to the clutch assembly. There may be another great person out there that can better answer what the issue is, but the shops you're going to should be in the know also.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

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