Removing alternator

60

Asked by Feb 11, 2011 at 10:46 PM about the Ford Focus

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

  Is there a release on the plug that is on the back of the alternator above the wire that is bolted on.  How do you get the plug off of the alternator?   

Also the tensioner is below the alternator, correct?  It looks like I will have to remove the tensioner in order to remove the lower alternator bolt?  Does that sound right to you?  The repair manual I’m using has me a bit confused, at first it says to loosen the tensioner to but a ratchet driver into a hole on the tensioner and turn it toward the front of the car, in another place it says to loosen it to but on a new belt turn it counterclockwise which is the opposite direction.  So how exactly to I get the serpentine belt off?

Thanks for all the advice so far, you have been a great help.

12 Answers

no,just remove serpenten belt,remove bolts,unplug wire has a prong on it push in pull out,on back is a nut that holds wire on,first thing to do is unhook battery,time 30 to 45 min job.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
60

My car must be put together different, or I'm just not looking at it right. Haynes says to but a ratchet or braker bar into a hole on tensioner and move handle toward front of car. Then you can remove the serpentine belt, however the space between the fender and the pulley that I think is suppose to be the tensioner is not wide enough to but a ratchet into. It also says to remove the mounting bolts and move the block toward the drivers side of the car. The block does not move that direction. Does an SE wagon with a DOHC have a different design than other focuses? What is the tensioner look like? The one I think is the tensioner is directly below the altenator and looks like a grooved pulley wheel. Lastly, I found the clip on the back of the plug but even with it pushed in the plug doesn't move. Maybe I just do not have enough finger strength. Are the wires on the plug suppose to be able to move in and out on the plug? They do not come out of the plug but there is some movement when I push and pull on them. I didn't notice the movement the first time I looked at it, but it's definitely there. Sorry so many questions, I work on computers and electromechanical devices, combustion engines are something I left to a mechanic but can't afford that at the present. Thanks for your time,patients and advice.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

The idler has a small black plastic wheel on a arm,is spring loaded,it has a square cut out for the wrachet to pull to remove ser.belt.it lets the pressure off it to put it back on (belt)do it reverce.it is tight ,use no extenson on wratchet.the whole idler is alluimun,cant miss it.yes the plug comes out of alt just work with it,it will pull out.replaceing the alt is no big deal.when putting belt back on,their should be a diagram on raid cover showing how the belt goes back on,ps you do not have to take it complety off,just off the alt,but it will came off other things,if the diagram is missing draw it on a pice of paper,how it is one,if not installed correct it will pop off,if you dont feel you can do the job take it to your mechanic to replace,shops in my area charge $35 to $50 to do it..that is what you should have to pay.like said is a 45 min job.good luck.if i can be of more help just ask.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
60

Thanks for all the help. I have the alternator off of the engine block thanks to your advice. I have one more problem to over come. How do I get it out from behind the engine block. Haynes says to pull it out pulley first in the area created by removing the burp tank and the power steering tank. But the alternator does not fit through the hole. There is a metal bracket on the engine mount it looks like its held by one screw possibly two it cups what I believe is the start or the fuel intake. The bracket is blocking the alternators exit. Can I remove it without causing more trouble?

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

forget the haynes manual.what you need to do now is unbolt the motor mount,put a floor jack and a 2x4 wood block on it put under oil pan at far end of engine not to damage oil pan jack it up you will be able to remove alt.motor mount bolts are on top on passenger side close to surge tank,should be just 2 bolts to remove,I see no reason to remove tensioner.to get the belt off put wratchet in square at tension wheel,is just a smooth black wheel,push it back to firewall remove belt.if you cant get a grip on wratch put a long box end wrinch on wratchet handle and push,befor raising engine rwmove bolts first with jack under motor with it jacked up just enough to tuch oil pan.it sounds like a lot of work or unknowns,but it is not a hard job,I can do it in 45 min,just dont forget to unhook battery first thing.

I am finding my 03 wagon to be different in design than anything in the books. The tensioner pulley is a grooved pulley, not smooth. It does not have the socket hole to release it. You use an open end #15 on the center bolt and turn iit clockwise. Also, at this point, undoing the passenger side engine mount and levering the engine forward, does not give it enough clearance to remove the alternator. Going to try jacking the engine up a bit tomorrow to see if that gives me the 3/4 inch I still need.

you may have to remove right front tire and go through the fender well to get to it.

can you post a pic,that would help.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
60

I was able to get my alternator in. What worked for me was jacking the engine up about an inch and then pushing the engine forward as far as it could go its a very tight fit and I had to play with it for a while but the alternator did come out the space made that way. If you have someone who can help you have them pry the engine forward while you work with the alternator. Oh you have to loosen the fuel line and remove the eye loop that is used to pull the engine. With the eye bracket in place there is not enough room. Papa thanks for the help, now if I can just figure out why cylinder 4 misfires occasionally. Really bad when its raining.

bad plug wires.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
4,395

if u could post few pics then it would make things clearer. http://focus-ford.net/

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
5

If you damage the top nut you can take the stud out as. I Did with a 1/4" drive ratchet . Only take 30 min to remove and replace.alternator

Your Answer

Add photo

Related Questions

Focus

Looking for a Used Focus in your area?

CarGurus has 59,013 nationwide Focus listings starting at $995.

ZIP:

Search Ford Focus Questions

Ford Focus Experts

#1 Tom Demyan
Tom Demyan
Reputation 1,260
#2 dandyoun
dandyoun
Reputation 960
#3 Su'ad Barakat
Su'ad Barakat
Reputation 860
View All

Related Models For Sale

Used Ford Fusion
1,106 Great Deals out of 78,360 listings starting at $1,250
Used Honda Civic
704 Great Deals out of 77,526 listings starting at $1,200
Used Ford Fiesta
151 Great Deals out of 16,781 listings starting at $3,410
Used Ford Focus RS
1,649 listings starting at $35,550
Used Chevrolet Cruze
888 Great Deals out of 91,287 listings starting at $3,500
Used Ford Mustang
397 Great Deals out of 44,403 listings starting at $1,000
Used Toyota Corolla
925 Great Deals out of 74,279 listings starting at $1,500
Used Mazda MAZDA3
320 Great Deals out of 28,703 listings starting at $1,495
Used Honda Accord
887 Great Deals out of 82,090 listings starting at $999
Used Hyundai Elantra
610 Great Deals out of 55,144 listings starting at $895
Used Ford Escape
1,212 Great Deals out of 90,427 listings starting at $1,295
Used Toyota Camry
1,087 Great Deals out of 98,046 listings starting at $1,250
Used Volkswagen GTI
102 Great Deals out of 6,194 listings starting at $2,299
Used Chevrolet Malibu
1,080 Great Deals out of 85,119 listings starting at $1,995
Used Nissan Altima
1,095 Great Deals out of 83,211 listings starting at $670