What causes cylinder misfire? Diagnostic shows that there are cylinder misfires in all cylinder. The toyota people couldn't figure out what was causing cylinder misfire in Rav4. My check engine light is on because of this I guess...any suggestions?
I am having the exact same problem with my 2006 RAV4. All 6 cylinders are showing a misfire. Does anyone out there know anything that can help us?!?! Coils wouldn't all go bad at once and I am not getting coil related error codes. Mine has about 77K miles on it.
I has the same problem on my 2002. It could be your plugs if it is a single cylinder or the timing if it is multiple cylinders.
I just took my2009 RAV4 ("J"- series) in for 20K service and reported to them that it sometimes acted exhibited a hesitation. They ran diagnostics on the memory, which showed a history of misfires. They were unable to duplicate the problem and suggested fuel as the culprit. I believe that the diagnostics show only commanded firing, not completed combustion. Anybody else have this problem?
Well I am the one who posted earlier about this problem and I figured mine out. Unless you have a more sophisticated code reader the misfires appear to be random but they are not. They were due to a bad coil. I now know that these vehicles have bad coils in general. I have already replaced 2 of them and am now having trouble with a third. It's a major issue with the RAV4's. I recommend that if you cannot afford to have it scanned and repaired at a good shop $250 that you purchase one from an auto parts store, idle your car until it begins to misfire. Unplug one coil at a time until you unplug one that does not make the care idle WORSE (all good coils will make it run worse when you unplug them) when you find that coil, replace it and you're good. Coils run about $85 each.
It would be interesting to see how many Code0300-0301 recipients have to use 10% Ethanol fuel. I am on my 3rd set of O2 sensors and plugs in my 2003 RAV4; the coils have all tested out okay. I think (at least in my case) itʻs the ethanol in the fuel which has attracted a little too-much water. Iʻm trying out a high-EtOH fuel e.g., 198 Proof, additive to reduce/change the H20 to something that should burn better than water.
I liked the answer about the gas/ethanol...I'm a car dealer with 40 years experience and I see tons of fuel related drive-ability issues ...Don't Forget...The Government makes more off of a gallon of gas than the Oil Companies...
The guy with 40 years experience is a car dealer, say no more. His answer was worthless. Easiest first. Mass air flow sensor cleaned is easy and could fix. Next unplug coil one at a time. And check to make sure car runs worse after each coil Next pull back seat and check gas tank for gauge meter bent next the car has 2 tanks kinda because of drive shaft. Going between them. One side siphons from other keeping both sides level. Making sure there's no water in there.also . Then check expensive pump. Then put computer on it and check live action. I'm assuming good spark plugs. Very lastly it could be a transmission problem . They starts as software problem then ruins your tranny. You'll end up doing both. Never mess with gas filter. Lastly a heads up. Get under your car and spray penetrant on camber adjustment and caster they are notorious for freezing or galling. Only then use that car dealer guy whom I don't trust . It's never a injector
I have a 1997 Rav4 and live in Costa Rica,Mechanic just installed NEW Compressor for my A/C and NOW car clutch sounds awful and A/C guy tells me I need to find the ORIGINAL wiring to connect to the compressor.Does he mean a coil pack? and is it fairly easy to find and install?
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