my 2003 Mazda Protege wont start PLEASE HELP!!!!!


Asked by Feb 12, 2014 at 11:06 AM about the Mazda Protege

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

hello everyone. I have a 2003 Mazda Protege and for several days now my Mazda has
not been driving right. Its been very slow getting up hills and the check engine light is
on then it will blink then stop out of the blue. The RMP ( not sure if that is what it is
called) but the gadget that said 1,2,3,4,5,6 well when i push on the gas it goes all the
way up to 4 ( almost to the red) and then drops down to 2 then floats at 2 when i come
to a complete stop at the stop light it goes under 1 and wants to die on me.. I have to
put the car in neutral and wait till the light turns green. :(   I took it to advanced auto and
got a diagnostic check on it. And the guy had said their where two codes one was a
intake and the other was  something to with my calibrator. The guy suggested that id
buy something to put in my gas tank cause he thought the gas got frozen due to the
weather we have been having in Kentucky. So i done that and im still having the same
problem. I tried going to Goodyear and they wanted to charge me $60.00 to just do a
diagnostic test on my car. I thought that was too much so i left. but now today i was
heading out to my car to go to work at 4 am I tried starting up my car like any other day
and the break was HARD as a rock. it was so stiff i couldn't even move it. the lights
blinked and then the car wouldn't start. So at first my thought was the battery. cause
how the lights blinked like that and shut off. But then when i tried starting it back up
again. i turn on my lights and radio and everything was working but WOULDN'T start. I
can express to you readers how im dumb founded over this car. I don't know anything
about a car and id rather hear your thoughts and advice then to go to a mechanic and
get screwed over cause im a girl and don't know NOTHING about a car. PLEASE
PLEASE PLEASE help me.. any advice will do..( hopefully its something small)

4 Answers

Tom Demyan

Since you know nothing about cars, I would find a mechanic/shop who you can trust so you don't have to worry about being taken advantage of. Get some referrals from friends and family. Your going to have to spend money at some point to get your car running properly. You have multiple issues. First, I think your battery doesn't have enough cold crank amps to start the car. Second, having a hard brake pedal is not good. third, we would need the 4 digit codes that advance auto pulled for you to suggest what to replace. The gadget you refer too for the RPM is a tachometer. You could have a vacuum leak or any other of the hundred or so car related sensor issues.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I thought i just replied but i guess it didn't work. But THANK you so much tom. I will look into finding a mechanic or a shop. You mentioned the battery and you said the battery doesn't have enough cold crank amps to start the car. If I may ask, Do I need to just buy a new battery? and to update you on my situation. I went back out to start my Mazda and tapped on the break as I was starting the car and it ran but i had to hold on the gas pedal for a minute but took it around the block and it drove okay not like it use to but now the check engine light is back on and blinking.:( But thank you for reading and answering my post. You helped a lot.


Flashing check engine lights are bad, and need to be checked out sooner the better. Steady check engine light not as critical, usually means sonmething is not as efficient as it should be, but depending upon the light you may actually be able to run it indefinitely without any major impact. The flashing check engine light usually is accompanied by very noticable symtons (rough running, poor idling, hard to start). Codes are needed for a good analysis. On my 2000 Mazda Protege, I did learn that the spark plugs fire on the up and down stroke of the engine (meaning they wear out twice as fast as most. Last flashing check engine light I had was because a spark plug had gotten worn out. If you haven't had them replaced lately it may be a cause to your problem. the check engine code is needed to give a better answer. ALF


If runs good after pressing on the brake pedal for a bit your car may be running rich(clogged injectors,old plugs/wires) and have a bad brake booster allowing a leaner mixture to keep your car running( weird but happens) again this is only if while you press on brake pedal.

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