getting power to coil but no spark from it when turned over, test lighted when on, power on both contacts of coil, thinking distributor might be fried, have a module, hall effect half moon shaped thing, from a previous repair
direct from battery to positive on coil, no difference,
was previously just dying mid trip and taking awhile to start again...maybe 10 minutes into drive which says coil
will manually charge coil and dump it to see if it has spark then will know, any thoughts?
test the ground.
Battery should be newer than five years old, and the positive terminal should be clean and free or corrosion. The negative side should have a corrosion free 1/0 battery cable, to the chassis, clean off the attachment point the bolt to assure a 300 amp CCA ability also to the motor block so we have a great 300amp ground thoughout the works~
Here's how coils work. There 12 volts always on one side. The ground connection opens and closes through the points. When the points close, current flow through the coil's primary coil. The makes an electromagnetic field composed of flux lines from the north to south poles. When the points open, the flux lines collapse. The ebb and flow of the flux lines provide relative motion. The coil wire on the output is connected to the secondary winding in the coil. As we all know, to generate electricity you need three things. One is a magnetic field, two is a current carrying conductor, three is relative motion between the two. --- When the points open and the flux field collapses, they cut through the coils of the secondary - that induces a voltage that goes out the coil wire and jumps the gap at the end of the spark plug. (That's a lot of shit to remember from about forty years ago...) --- Bottom line on the Mazda no spark problem is that there is no opening of the points or what ever is opening the negative side of the coil.
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