Shut off while driving
Simon, much thanks for that answer, it's helping me out tremendously with my 98 Disco, currently nicknamed the Blue Bomber by my husband because it's been letting me sit
Rudy-can I ask if you've had the same problem? Other issue I'm seeing is that it won't start at all when the gas gets down to a 1/4 tank no matter how long we let it cool off ( it's not overheating). As far as I can tell the gas gauge is fairly accurate.
Maybe the ignition coil is getting hot, have that tested or replaced. Also the main relay. Old ones function faulty at different temps.
Matt- I'm assuming you mean the "multifunctional/fuel pump relay" (I've got to use the part store terms for it because I'm . We've changed out the crank sensor and the fuel filter (which was fairly clean). Do you have any recommendations on where to get a new one, quickly? Advance and auto zone can't get it for me.
Actually I meant a "main relay" some model cars have them mounted in the engine compartment next to a couple other relays. A "main" relay can control multiple circuits, primarily for the ignition. Some relays for different circuits can be the same part number, so you could try switching a couple and see if it makes a difference. You could still find good used relays at wrecking yards if your vehicle is an old enough model to be a candidate. I had an old 90 Mercedes 300ce that the cruise control amp went out. A new one was at a high cost. I found quite a large range of makes and models had the same part number. So I found one in a older 190e Mercedes and it still worked. And it cost only pennies on the dollar vs even good used ones on eBay.
So, we've bypassed the relay and still no change at all. We then pulled the vacuum hose from the fuel regulator and the only change i got was it would run longer and would start back up but it backfires. So far we've changed the fuel filter, old one wasn't dirty. We cleaned the MAF sensor, it was disgustingly nasty. The plugs, wires, air filter have all been changed and a new crank sensor. Am I looking at replacing the fuel pump? Hate to shell out that much cash when I'm not positive. Would a bad fuel pump cause backfiring?
Well the backfring is logical seeing as you removed the vacuum off the pressure regulator, thus upsetting the delicate fuel/air balance in your engine, put that back on. If you ask me your problem is ignition related rather than fuel/air, it might just be the ignition module at fault here, they do die and in their final stages they can cause all kinds of intermittent problems.
Is your car OBDI or II? Have you pulled any diagnostic codes to help find the issue? Also what is the year, model, and engine???
Check out this site for codes and other resources: http://www.muddyoval.com/articles/generalinfo/obdII.htm
Hey, my friend just came from the beach in his LR3 Land Rover, and the engine shut off 5 times from I-95 to I-40 west bound, after about 20 min. the engine starts fine. My advise to him was to change the ignition module.There were no other clues, the constant in this problem is highway speeds and engine at normal running temperatures, no codes or lights. He's going to change the module, I'll let you all know if it clears-up the problem.
wow, that's a few things to consider. I'm about to pickup one that purrs for 5 mins then shuts off. owner/dealer says it knocks, then purrs later on. CPS? RJ
hi guys ive got a 96 disco mine shuts of after a bout 20mins or sometimes 5mins when warm or just wont start I found that when it don't start the fuel pumps not working but im getting power to the pump
May have to replace the plugs, wires, and coil pack. Take out the crankshaft position sensor, clean it off, check the connector, put back on. Should work like new. USE THE CORRECT plugs and wires ONLY.
Hi all, I recently had my throttle body replaced after it shut off at a stop light(prompting throttle codes). The very next day it stalled for the first time while at a stop light. It stalls every 2-4 days only when at a stop or coming to a stop(braking). I had the crankshaft position sensor replaced which caused the car to not stall for about 7 days but now it is continuing to stall again intermittently. I had the fuel pump checked; there are no valve leaks or anything "wrong" with the car. Mechanics are having a hard time not being able to duplicate the stall so I’m fishing for suggestions. I don't want to just throw parts at the problem hoping it fixes it but want to find out what the real source is. If you have any insight please let me know! When it stalls... there is no noise, no abrupt feeling. I simply go to accelerate and realize I’m not going anywhere, realize the car stalled then cycle the key about 3 or 4 times and it starts right up and I continue on my way. On every other forum where people talk about stalling they typically are unable to restart right away as where I AM able to restart instantly.
I am having the same problem and it's driving me nats
I am getting the same crazy, no way to know when, where or why, stalling issue. Could be sitting at a light and it dies, or just braking in traffic. The latter of which really is scary because the power steering and power brakes aren't power anymore...
Morning. I had this as well yesterday. Disco3 2008. I had a quarter of a tank of fuel left, drove off after deciding not to fill up, and it conked out at 80km/h. No drama, just as Katrianak above, the music stopped, I looked down, no lights on the dash, then I realised the engine had stalled. Popped it into neutral, turned the key and it lit up first time. The petrol gauge was showing totally empty and the fuel empty orange light was on when it came back to life. This slowly increased back upto 1/4 full over the next 5 mins. This was the 3rd time it has happened to me. Each time whilst doing 60-80kmh, so yes, very un-nerving, especially as reverse is one click to far on the auto-box!!!
And now I think about it, I just had a "Low Coolant Level" pop up a couple of times whilst on a long journey, and it also popped up this morning after only a 5 minute ride. The coolant level is definitely not low. I checked multiple times both when warm and cold....
Hey guys, I have a 08, LR@ SE, the low coolant light is just came on. ITs not low on coolant. also the bonnet open is on, the bonnet is closed. it also has a 1/4 tank of gas. It died this morning at a stop sign and will not start. From the above post are you saying that the wires/plugs/coil pack is what needs to be changed?
Check fuel pressure at rail. Should be near 35-38psi pre-start and keep high 20s while running. Mine, 98 Disco I LE, 4.0 GEMS nearly reaches 20psi pre-start and drops to 10 running. These things are finicky and can cost 2 arms, 3 legs and .... but if well maintained are fine machines. Bought Beastie Bleu (or Canard Bleu) in Dec 2015 and other than progressively worse start issues it has been solid. Much driving 30+ on dirt./gravel at ranch so at least weekly air filter clean. A couple of trips to tahoe and back. Sweet car.
CAN BUS system try replacing the brake pedal switch, this is a common issue, it gets arc burns on the switch contacts and a great deal of systems depend on this switch as its a 2 position switch. I have a DISCO 4 is Oz and I replaced this for similar freaky issues. Cheers Gordo.
is the Fuel Pump, when the car gets hot, it protects the fuel pump and turns off, when you have a full tank it cools in about 3 min, if you have half or less you need to wait 10min or more
My 2000 Range rover keeps cutting off while i'm driving do anyone know what it could be fuel pump has been changed, all relays and crank sensor?
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