clutch just suddenly failed....pedal to the floor, no pressure
If there is no pressure at all, most likely the throw-out bearing fork rod or the linkage to it broke. If a pressure plate is worn, or t/o bearing bad, flywheel scorched, all that you would sttill feel pressure on the petal. Check linkage. sometime the rod that pushes the t/o rod fork will fall out of the rod. It's not attached, held in place only by spring pressure. Easy fix if that's the case, caused by out of adjustment. Good luck , hope that's all it is. Worst case all pressure plate componets destroyed and nothing to give petal something to push
It just occured to me that if it's a hydraulic clutch, forget all that' You don't say what year. Look for oil on floor or driveway, whatever plave you park.
thanks Mark it is optra 2004 manual actually when this hapend it is not possible to put gear in shift
First, it is possible. Put it in gear with the engine off, and if you know what you're doing, you can actually drive the car. It would take far too long to explain how to do that that here, but you can get going and shift without the clutch without the clutch disengaging at all, Takes practice but when you do figure it out it's easy
i have same car my clutch went and had no pressue i had to tow to mechanic cuz i couldnt shift at all anymore, somehow i have air in the line so all we did was bleed air out and i had clutch again....only temporarily tho. not sure what the real problem is yet or how air is even getting in line cuz there is no leak at all.
Foxy, if you pump your clutch with the feet when you car is started, it will work... but it is just temporary. you wont need to call the tow anymore. i discover that few days ago...
Endive, i was able to keep my car going by doing that thanks but still have no idea what the actual problem is yet. Havent been able to take it to garage yet. Do you have any idea what the actualy problem might be?
The problem is that the slave cylinder is located inside of the engine and gets very hot forcing clutch/brake fluid to evaporate and rubber gaskets to get stiff. It will never work long because of the stupid design ... unless you change the working fluid for other stuff like I did. So, the long story short, my clutch did not work at all. I went to Pick and Pull, picked up a separate small clutch reservoir from some older car for $2, installed it nearby the brake/clutch reservoir of my car and corked the existing clutch fluid outlet. Thus, I separated the clutch and brake fluids, started using a new mix for clutch and fixed the problem forever.
I was facing same problem and had to go for the Clutch overhaul as Odo reading was close to 1 Lac .. Master Cylinder/Clutch Bearing assembly with Slave cylinder and Clutch plates along with the pressure plates of course.. Not sure if this was unnecessary ! But its smooth now, though the pressure is not as it was in the earlier one.. not sure if its good or bad :-(
): what if the car won't move and you don't know what's wrong with the clutch
Alright. I just went through this. I'll try to explain what I did. The last step seemed to be the most important. I lost pressure in my clutch pedal. I checked everything. Clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and the lines. No leaks. I work by myself. So I was trying to two man method to bleed it myself. Still no pressure in clutch... I was told to put a tube, I used 1/4 line. to my bleeder valve on slave cylinder and put the other end in my master cylinder reservoir... and pump the hell out of the clutch. I hand pumped my clutch for about three hours straight. Sometimes slow. Sometimes fast. I would hand pump about 10 times... and then get out and check the reservoir for bubbles and for the fluid level. NOTHING. No pressure. This is gonna sound so stupid and so easy but this is how I got pressure back in my clutch... after working out most bubbles in my system... like I said, about 3 hours of hand pumping the clutch... I slowly lifted the clutch pedal with my hand and shut the bleeder valve off. My pedal was hard as a rock. it's like a brand new clutch. So the important step in getting pressure back in your clutch... is making sure your pedal is UP AND THEN you close your bleeder valve. You'll be able to two man bleed it for the remaining air in the lines after that...
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