I need to know what fuse goes to which
part of the car I'm trying to check the
battery or ignition fuse
Check the owner's manual
There is no fuse for the battery, if you have no power at all and battery is good you want to check the megafuse in the underhood fuse box. Your owner's manual will have a diagram of fuses and what they go to, if you don't have a manual check repair guides at Autozone's website. Those fuse kits at most auto parts stores come with an assortment of mini- and maxi fuses as well as a tester that lets you check them without having to pull them (it does require a charged battery in the car). Is there a specific problem you are trying to troubleshoot?
My car has to be jumped to start it. As soon as I turn it off the battery seems to be drained. I've replaced the spark plugs, and I've even bought a brand new battery. The alternator was even checked. I haven't checked the fuses and I've lost my manual ugh
That's not a fuse problem, something is draining your battery. I'd recheck the voltage regulator on the alternator.
OK. Can I take it to oreilys and them hook it up to the electronic reader. Also I've had it hooked up before and they told me it was a cylinder misfire or something to that nature that's why I had the spark plugs changed. It's running like really bad. Like its struggling to shift. I'm afraid it's something major. Any thoughts
First thought: do not let O'reillys or Autozone of Advance diagnose your car. They are not mechanics. They offer a free service to read the diagnostic trouble codes, and check basic things like the charging system, and that's great for the simple stuff. Misfires can have a lot of causes, by all means do what you can yourself as far as a tune up goes, but don't start throwing parts at it in a blind attempt to fix it. Take it to a mechanic and get a proper diagnose. The misfire and the battery drain most likely are separate problems. Misfires can be something simple (plugs, wires, vacuum leaks, low fuel pressure, dirty injectors, etc.) or something big (timing chain). It may be a bad sensor (cam, crank, knock) or the thing the sensor is attached to (cam, crank). The misfire may also be a bad coil pack, and that could possibly tie in with battery drain if they are arcing. Coil packs are not cheap, and labor to replace all 6 is about 1.5 hours. (figure $150 for labor). You could be looking at about 600 or more to pay a garage to replace all 6. I'd get a solid diagnostic before proceeding.
Take the battery and the alternator in for testing at auto parts store. Check all Battery terminals & terminal wires for corrosion or burns or shorts and check all ground wires from battery to frame/engine block and engine block to frame ground wires, check all good connection, frayed wires, bad spots. Look under the dash on drivers side for the fuse panel and pull each out the see if the filament is broken or if it looks burned of fogged up replace it. Look under the hood at the main circuit breaker panel for same kind of problems. Check all vacuum lines/hoses for leaks, listen for vacuum leaks will sound like a hissing sound, if you have a check engine light still on have the parts store check and make a note of the code given and reset it or clear off the codes set and see if the check engine light comes back on and if so have it checked and diagnose the new codes reasons for being set.
Thank you for All ur help have a good night
Looking for a Used Escape in your area?
CarGurus has 93,043 nationwide Escape listings starting at $1,500.
Search Ford Escape Questions
Ford Escape Experts