Asked by Oct 26, 2008 at 07:04 PM about the 1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

How would I go about sanding the paint off of my 1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and repaint it myself?

4 Answers


This is a copy paste from another forum, and not my information... " Supplies: Quantity: Paint 1 gallon Reducer 1 gallon Hardener 1 pint Fish Eye Reducer 4 oz. Sealer paint 1 qt Epoxy Primer 2 qts Mixing Cups 1 qt size Tact Cloths 6+ Spot Putty 1 tube Super Fine Bondo 1 can Sand Paper: 400 Lots 600 1 package Meguiar’s Unigrit Sand Papers 1000 1 package 1200 1 package 1500 1 package 2000 1 package Compounds: Meguiar’s Heavy, Medium, Light cut 1 bottle of each Swirl Remover 2 bottles Glaze 1 bottle Orbital Buffer 10 inch 1 Orbital Buffer 6 inch 1 Buffing Pads for both 6+ each 36 inch sanding block made one, explain later 2 air filters for paint gun Masking tape lots Masking paper lots Degreaser 1 gallon OK, here goes. Wash car with Degreaser to remove all road dirt and old wax, scrub. I use this degreaser I get at Costco in the Auto dept, pulls the old wax right out of the paint, use full strength, and don’t let it dry. Identify body panels that are going to need work. Mark with a Marker Pen. Remove all body trim and bumpers. Glue 400 paper onto sanding block, go over entire car with sanding block, use a hand spray bottle filled with water and dish washing soap to keep surface wet, keep a hose handy. Rise/dry car, you’ll be able to see all the low spots. If there are small dings, parking lot, try to pound out, and then fill with super fine bondo or JB Weld. I filled the battery tray with JB Weld, and then shaped with a surfacing pad. If the battery ever eats the JB Weld, it’ll be time to throw out the carI removed doors, hoods, hood hinges, engine cover, lights, eyebrows, side marker lights, tail lights, door latches, pretty well stripped her down, if it could come off it did. Made a 36 inch sanding block. Used 1/8 x 2 x 36 inch aluminum flat plate and 1 inch alum angle. I attached the angle to the flat plate with counter sunk screws, 6 inch spacing for screws. Do not weld together, you’ll warp plate. Attached sand paper to sanding block with spray adhesive, pain in the ass to change paper, used razor blades and lacquer thinner to clean plate for new paper. But it worked great on doors and hoods. Note about Bondo, there are a couple of different types, one type holds water, one type doesn’t, get the one that doesn’t. Body shop supply should have it. Start with one panel, I hung doors and hoods in garage and shot them that way. Put eye bolts in ceiling, hung them with bungee cords and wire. If you have old sheets, cover everything up for over spray. THIS IS IMPORTANT: Before any painting. Find a good ground on car and any panels/doors you’re shooting, run a wire to a water pipe, clean water pipe for good connection. I shot 1 fender without doing that, then one fender with a ground. I had at least 80-90% less dust in the paint with the ground wire. I painted my car in the driveway; I always shot the paint in the morning, before any wind came up, prepped car night before. When you think you’re all ready, lol. Mask, prep car for paint. Shoot sealer coat of paint, this seals old paint, preps for primer. Let dry, wet sand with 400 sand paper. You have 48 to 72 hours to shot primer over sealer paint , shoot primer, wet sand with 400 sand paper, then 48 to 72 hours to shoot color coat over primer, or you start over. These times are another reason I worked one panel at a time, easier to shoot one panel, than the whole car. When you shoot color coats, first shoot a light tack coat, let dry 20 minutes, and then shoot at least 2 color coats at around 15 apart. Watch for flies, they like the smell of fresh paint, ask me how I know. This is how I solved the fly problem, I had my neighbor bring his big dog over and take a dump in my yard. Fly strips, fly catchers didn’t work, but that dog sure did lol. Let paint dry 4-5 days, in the sun if you can, then start the color sanding start with 1000 up to 2000, use lots of water mixed with dish washing soap. Then start buffing, heavy, medium, light, swirl remover, glaze, and wax. Change buffing pads a lot, only do about 6-8 square feet before changing pad. I used the degreaser to clean pads, put them in sun to dry. Like I said, there is no way to speed up a good paint job; it’s time consuming, often overwhelming. That’s one reason I did one panel at a time, plus I was driving her and racing her during the restoration. As long as I just concentrated on one panel at a time, I didn’t get overwhelmed. You won’t like this. 2 weeks after I finished all the paint, I went to Harbor Freight to pick up some tools. I’m waiting to check out, this guy comes into the store, says,” Does anyone own a black Porsche”. I said OMG, yes. He’d just backed his Ford F-250 with ugly dock bumper over the front end, got both fenders, turn signals, and the hood. The good news, he didn’t run, the bad news, I got to redo the whole front end, again. Chances are, I forgot somethig, any questions, ask. One other thing, I've been painting Harley's for about 20+ years. I've never had a dis-satisfied customer yet. Take Care, Don " *************A later addition to his post***************** " Prep car, the night before, masking tape and paper. The day of the painting. Take a rag, fold it square, soak with reducer, not dripping, just real wet. Lightly wipe down areas to be painted, ONE Direction, ONE Time. Let dry, then lightly use a tack cloth. Now you're ready for the first coat. When you mask off, you're going to get finger prints, finger prints can cause the new paint to lift later on, wiping with reducer will remove the finger print oils. I always wiped down, then went to mix paint to give it time to dry before tack cloth. " Information thanks to... DonTraver in a post reguarding PPG vs OMNI paint on both the 914world and 914club forums


re: how do I sand the paint off my '79 Olds. Cutlass Supreme?" You don't. Don't buy a bunch of products that you will have to figgure out how to use"practice" on your Olds. Paints and other products for automotive refinishing are heck-a-nasty. You will start out by buying a bunch of stuff to start the job and keep buying stuff in an attempt to finish it, you'll most likely give-up during the process. This is a VERY involved labor intensive project, DONT over etimate your "man-itude", many many people have started on this only to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars only to quit in frustration. Dont become one of them, the paint and primer alone to complete this job would be four or five hundred dollars alone, then there's equipment and a "spray-booth", forget it. Why do all this to a descent Cutlass? Because they are cool cars, how do you know it needs a total re-sand? Take it to a professional paint shop, one of those national chains like Maaco, talk to the manager and listen to what he has to say, you'll get a estimate that they will stick to, with a gaurentee you'll never get on your own. What happens if you do decide to buy all this stuff then quit? Will you be able to return it? No. I'd say if your car is in good shape, the paint isn't to badly glazed/cracked and it hasn't had a bad prior paint job they maybe be able to do a lo cost 'job on your with surprising results. And you can always tell everybody later that you painted it yourself, who cares its your car anyways.


kind of depends how much time and money you want to spend ive used a few time the napa utility paint it is about 40 per gallon and if you have no rust you can just rough up the exsisting paint with 120 grit and a d/a sander then go over with 220 grit make sure you use a tack cloth and there are no bugs in the air when you spray also a good idea to practice spraying on some old metal start from the top then hood the trunk then the side also the first coat is called a tacky coat so dont spay to heavey as the paint will run get that first tacky coat on wait for about half an hr or so then spay the second coat let that dry for about an hr then at that time you will see if you want to aplie another coat hope that helps


Easy....get an electric sander or a sand block, and sand the whole car down completely without hurting the chrome. Then remove the chrome and prime the entire car with spray can primer. Do about 2-3 coat of primer and let it dry. Then tape up the bumpers, lights, and other misc. parts with simple painters tape. Purchase the color paint you want, i suggest gloss, and with spray can or compression sprayer, spray the car once and let it dry. Spray the car 2 more times while letting it dry in between. Then look for any imperfections with your paint job such as blotches or streaks and paint over them. Let that dry and then remove tape and you've got your paint job. You should be able to do this all for under 50 dollars considering you use spray cans.

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