2004 Silverado 5.3 runs fine when idle an runs good up to about 25mph

Asked by Jan 31, 2016 at 08:59 PM about the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

the truck runs fine at idle when I accelerate to about 25mph it spits an sputters when I accelerate more it gets worse

14 Answers

116,065

Could be a fuel delivery or a tune problem, when was the fuel filter and the last good tune up done? Is the check engine light on?

just bought this truck as far as tuneup the truck runs smooth it only start running bad around 25mph an will not accelerate when I try too

116,065

Then change the fuel filter anyways unless it is obvious it already has been recently done. When I buy a used rig the filters are the very first thing I do, needed or not, then pull a spark plug just to see how it is running and if they also need replacement. The only other thing I can think of would be a restricted exhaust, an exhaust system back pressure test would verify or deny that. Test kits can be purchased at most part stores. HTH

I am with you about changing fuel filter but just would like to know for sure that's it before I spend $500 an that not be the problem

116,065

Sorry I should have asked if it was flex fuel or not, the flex fuel is fairly easy to change but the regular gasoline one is in the tank, so a pressure and flow test would still apply. You never did say if the check engine light comes on. I would suggest, if your not going to work on this yourself, that you take it to a shop you trust, it doesn't have to go to a dealer, and have the testing performed there, and if multiple problems are found then decide what need fixed now and what can wait. HTH

ok Thanks its not a flex fuel an was going to try to fix it myself

116,065

Ok, there are a few must have tools to work on your rig, 1 is a good scanner, get one with "live data" and freeze frame capabilities, the 2nd is a code saver device, it plugs into a lighter or power port to keep presets alive in case the battery has to be removed, also helps when you have to replace the battery if and when it goes bad, with out this tool you will wind up at a dealer having to get the system reflashed, the 3rd one is an exhaust system backpressure tool, it is a simple tool easy to use, the next tool is really not necessary but it sure helps and that is one of those cheap little siphon pumps from Harbor Freight, it is good for pumping enough fuel out of the tank after you have removed the main fill tube from the fuel tank. I hope this will help you along.

well I guess you are telling me to take it to a shop.if I have to buy all these tools I will have more money involved ,I will try something new Thanks

116,065

No I'm not, I'm just giving you a heads up on what you will need if you are going to work on a late model rig. Sorry if you took it that way, we are not in the 60's any more when you could work on your car with a 1/2 and a 9/16 wrench, a standard screw driver, some bailing wire and electrical tape. Today's vehicles require speciality tools, so you either buy them or have someone else work on it. After being a Tech for so many years that idea just scares me, but one day I just might have too do it.

was not the fuel filter or tune up still doing it

116,065

So what did the scan tool tell you? Or you haven't bought one yet.

TOOK IT AN HAD SCAN DONE JUST SHOWED ABS SENSOR WAS BAD,NO OTHER CODE CAME UP,

116,065

OK so this is where live data scanning comes in really handy, as you can see in real time the sensors and ECM's responses to those readings, you can also see if any of those sensors are out of specs but cause they chance settings the ECM won't see them as bad.

30

mine was doing same thing changed mass air flow and fuel pressure regulator still doing same starts but must crank 6 to 10 seconds, now im going to change canister purge valve pcv valve and remove and clean the electronic throttle body and gasket.

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