does anybody know how to fix E350 ABS troubles? Seems there is no solutions to this problem.

Asked by Mar 06, 2014 at 11:08 AM about the 1996 Ford E-350

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

ABS dash light comes on intermittently, causes cruise control to stop working. No one
seems to know what the problem is with the brake system on these vehicles....Even most
mechanics say "don't worry about it, it's a Ford", seems like a ridiculous answer.

8 Answers


Apparently you have a bunch of uncaring mechanics, most good shops have the equipment to check the ABS systems on most every vehicle out there, it is a simple matter to hookup the equipment to get the systems codes, after that then it can get costly, but a lot of the Fords I have checked wound up being the speed sensor on the rear axle, but you need the codes first. Try a different shop.

4 people found this helpful.

I agree entirely with tennisshoes. Find a TECHNICIAN. You didn't state if it was a "Rear Wheel ABS" or "4WABS". Some other possibilities for an ABS problem are loose wheel bearings, bent axle, carrier bearings (for the diff mounted sensor), low brake fluid level, or even the ABS module its self. Get codes (if any), check the resistance of the wheel speed sensors, the wiring and finally the ABS Module.

4 people found this helpful.

check your brake fluid level it gets low them abs will deativate causing cruise to stop also.

1 people found this helpful.

My dash ABS light came on and changing the sensor at the rear end did not fix it it. Took it to Ford and they found the wire at the instrument panel came off. I was driving on I5 and there were a lot of pot holes so I guess that is what jarred it loose. As soon as I started going uphill the light came on. Fixed in 20 minutes and been good for 4 years so far no more light.

1 people found this helpful.

The pedal goes to the floor, I put in a new master cylinder but no change, Now what ?


Did you bench bleed the master cylinders? Have you bleed the system with the key on? Start with the farthest bleeder first. If you still can't get any pedal then you may have to try reverse pressure bleeding, normally you don't have to do this but occasionally you get a stubborn one.

I did a bench bleed before I even took the old one out, If it is this hard to make work right why not take the RABS out and put in a adjustable portioning valve and be done with it ?


I have done that to first generation antilock but you didn't learn to drive without antilock brakes it can be dangerous. It has been proven that antilock equipment vehicles do stop quicker than non-antilock vehicles. The problem is that sometimes you need more equipment to diagnosis and repair the system than the normal guy is going to have. It sounds like your frustrated and when that happens people start doing things they later regret, if you can't get it to work right then it's time to let a shop fix it, some shops have a mobile truck that can come to you, it might benefit you to just bite the bullet and have the guys with the right equipment do this for you. Or just step back, take a few deep breaths and start over from the beginning.

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