I changed the fuel filter in m 2004 Ford explorer and now my vehicle starts okay but when I step on the gas it stalls..like it's flooding. Is there a relay switch or something I'm suppose to re-set???


Asked by Feb 03, 2015 at 03:24 AM about the 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Was dropping off my kid at the community centre, pulled out and hit a bump or kinda
bottomed out (felt like that) and suddenly it seemed like t was getting no fuel. 20-30 Kim's
all the way home. So I pulled off the fuel filter and it was plugged. So I changed that and
she started up okay but when I put my foot on the gas she died. I should say she was
running a little rough before I changed the fuel filter. So I wasn't sure if the fuel filter was
the intial problem. I thought maybe I got bad gas. So I drained the tank and put good gas
back in with a bottle of gas line antifreeze. But again she starts up good but stalls when I
step on the gas. Was looking for trouble shooting in my manual, but nothing there..... Any
answers please. I'm a single mom and can't afford a mechanic. I do know my way around
most vehicles tho....

14 Answers


do you have any warning lights? if you do, the car could be in limp mode. usually occurs if there is a tranny problem, but almost always accompanied by a shift light or other traction light or other. I would suggest having the computer scanned for codes and maybe have the fuel pressure tested to make sure it is within specs.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

There are no warning lights whatsoever, disconnected the battery for a half hour, in order to reset any codes. Problem is still happening. Seems like the choke is staying on, fuel pump is running as I can hear it but she runs better when cold 10- 20 Kim's an hour, but once warmed up she stalls, problem becomes worse, I can still hear fuel pump. Thank you so much for your response...


Still wouldn't hurt to have the fuel pressure tested. Even though you hear the pump,, it might not be working to the correct pressure. Also, check for vacuum leaks and make sure the air filter is clean. A plugged catalytic converter can do this too, but usually you get a check engine light. If you get any lights, don't erase them, have them. Scanned. Most big auto parts stores will do it for free.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Air filter is new, checked for vacumn leaks I see none. I thought catalytic too but there is no lights coming on. It's got fuel pressure cuz it's shooting it out fast out the test port. I don't know what else to do. Could it be the tranny, as I have to take in to the dealership to fill, there is no dipstick but the tranny wasn't slipping before and again the engine light didn't come on. What about a faulty crank sensor, would that cuz my problem.


And thank you so much for your help.


Yes a crank sensor could, but I think those could be tested. Also, they should throw a code. You know, I had a Chevy car that did weird stuff and no codes, and it ended up being an injector. You could have your injectors tested, or do it yourself. If it is multiport I think you can do it with a multi meter. If it is tbi then you will need a cheap noid light. There are you tube bids on how to do it. Btw, even though your fuel is squirting out doesn't mean that the pressure is correct. Even a few pounds off can cause a problem. If you have multi port injection, there might be a Schrader valve on the rail that is used to hook up a pressure tester, if not it is more involved. If your car has a fuel pressure regulator up on the engine where it is accessible, pull off the vacuum line and see if there is fuel in it. There should not be. If there is, your fuel pressure regulator is bad. Hope this helps,, good luck, Mike.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Thanks for the advise and I'm going to try it out and I'll let you know, thanks again.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I know its a lot kiddo, but you seem like a very capable young lady. Please let me know what you find.


It turned out to be the throttle positioning sensor, finally stuck an OBD reader on it and that's what it said. Thanks for your help, it was appreciated immensely. Cheers.


Kind of suspected there had to be a code. frustrating when there is no light to indicate it, I usually tell peeps to scan whether there is or not. glad you got it taken care of and thank you for posting your answer. it could help someone else! Mike.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Hey mike, so I went to pick a part to get the sensor and low and behold I wasn't sure which one would work as they didn't have the same year, so I grabbed a few different ones which I thought would work. But now I'm not sure even where it is located. I might have grabbed map sensors instead. Could you hook me up with the location to lfind and replace the TPS please. Muchly appreciated. You're the best. Your friend Angela

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Ok kiddo, sounds like you might be getting salvage parts? That's ok, but correct make model and year is important on electrical parts. If you have one that looks close and is at least from the same engine then you can try it, but always best to get the right ones for computer engine management products like sensors. So, that said if you need to compare what it looks like then go to rockauto.com or autopartswarehouse.com and look up the part for your make model and year and you should see a pic. Now, location, it should be right on the side of the throttle body where the butterfly is that lets air into the engine. You will probably need to remove the air intake tube that comes from the air cleaner to get in there. Sometimes you have to remove other parts to get to it but they usually aren't too bad. Now, I will tell you how I get parts when I have to buy new ones. First of all OEM, or original equipment manufacturer, are always the most reliable, but are often more expensive. If it is in the budget always go with these. There are some good aftermarket ones though that say OEM replacement. These would be the next best thing. I would stay away from the ones that look too cheap because they are. The dealerships can get you the right one, but they are usually crazy expensive, try one of the above websites, or a local auto parts store. Btw, I haven't had much luck with NAPA electrical parts. Other stores that have a upper brand like Standard Motor Products would be a good one. I would suggest getting yourself a Haynes manual for your rig. They aren't to expensive and sometimes you can get them on eBay pretty cheap even with no shipping. Hope all this helps, Hit me back if you have any more questions, good Luck, Mike.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.
Best Answer

Thanks again Mike...


You are welcome. Hope you get back on the road.

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