fault code 18

10

Asked by Dec 05, 2011 at 04:20 PM about the 1985 Ford Ranger

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

2.3 4cyl idles ok - skips when stepping on gas - no power -- have replaced TFI and no change
a code book states intermittent tach signal or lost of signal.

14 Answers

sounds like the cat converter is stoped up.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.
105

I would also check your Oxygen sensor, MAP sensor (on passenger inner fender), and Idle Air Control Valve (on the side of your Air Cleaner box). I had an 86 Ranger with the same motor that did something similar, after I replaced those three things I didn't have any problems.

10

I figuired I'd better start from scrach. I got right into it and found the belt off one tooth--- the distributer cap on backwards so it was cockeyed causing the rotor to scrub the cap forcing the shaft to be off -- I'm thinking it might of been raping the pickup coil so I have replaced the pick up coil while I had the dist out -- everything was on hold -- having a roof put on my house -- then the weather arrived right after -- been rainy then snowy and a bit chilly -- now with both -- waiting for this clipper to go by then I'll resume the attack to see if anything I did helped.

sounds like you got it figured out.

what happened? I'm in the same boat...

10

the issues I had-----EGR, EGR modulator sensor,(ended up blocking exhaust to EGR from engine) OXY sensor, TFI (replaced & moved to front header of engine compartment to reduce heat issues), timing belt/timing(was a bitch), bad plugs, couple bad ign wires, terminal broke inside cap hence bad cap---if I had my druthers I would sell that motor & put in carbureted engine--it's just too goddamn fussy and there not enough info out there to resolve the chickenshit issues--it eats O2 sensors and runs very lean--no info if computer (CPU) can be reprogramed

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

The EGR in my truck was removed by previous owner. My issue started when my wires to TFI got caught in my asteering column. The TFI was cracked so I replaced it and now it runs rough, hesitates, and backfires. I get code 18C. I've been cleaning up my wiring I'm pretty sure my harness is not the original because all the connectors and relays are spliced on. (damn electrical tape)

10

here's what i found out---even if the component is not being used mechanically is still has to be electrically used as it were for the computer to operate within reason---my egr is still connected to system (CPU) to do it's operation except that the exhaust is blocked----it's like rowing a boat (on land)without water---the oars are still moving (working)but no water is being disturbed cause there isn't any

yep, found the SPOUT wire actually is being grounded, which I thought I had checked before but I guess it is such an intermittant ground it didn't pick up initially... Also i have a electrical EGR simulator thing on the EGR sensor connector, which I recently had to replace because it fell off while in tow when this crap all started. I wasted alot of time figuring that out and bought a replacement egr sim. I also had to fix the wiring to the fuel pump which was staying on because it was wired with a power coming from the main EEC relay so it would always be on. I think they probably did this because the fuel pump was weak/failing which I also previously had to replace. Ay Carumba!

10

how did this much go sideways---also my sprot was/is grounded via the aluminum (MFG) outside sheath wrap to stop electronic noise.--were you stating that the wire itself inside was grounding out????---this might be to late but you should be able to get wiring schem from autozone---you better check all the wiring do to all these inconsistencies--- if somebody had replaced the radio they may have corrupted some of the wiring harnesses to accommodate it

Question: Should the SPOUT wire ground inside the PCM? I thought the wire was grounding inside the harness, but further testing indicates it only grounds when the pcm is connected. I thought the PCM should send voltage through the spout and not ground it? I'm testing from the inline connector to the computer.

10

I don't know if this will help you or not--click on any or all http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtm l http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/TFI_ignitio n_system.gif https://www.google.com/search? q=spout+wiring+diagram+85+ranger+2wd&rlz=1C1NHXL_enUS7 13&espv=2&biw=1033&bih=551&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ& sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjogred687PAhVJYiYKHZ2EDfMQsAQIGw#q =spout%20wiring%20diagram%2085%20ranger%202wd&tbm=isc h&tbs=rimg%3ACYJAANOLeTLwIjj4NzZngjBPGwHx4OeozB1rh MUNkRbLtW9MaoPtt0rgldGRWdHnLkacT4- kt_1KyD7jCD2BqFnJsoSoSCfg3NmeCME8bEXPimIQIVMozKhIJ AfHg56jMHWsRwZxGNWBEyYAqEgmExQ2RFsu1bxHNsShSINi 40ioSCUxqg- 23SuCVEXn6mkR3ngyTKhIJ0ZFZ0ecuRpwRdpDenIjyrpEqEglPj6 S38rIPuBG- deCbQiy7VCoSCcIPYGoWcmyhEdllYeoleqcw&imgrc=gkAA04t5 MvA6GM%3A

10

https://www.google.com/search? q=spout+wiring+diagram+85+ranger+2wd&rlz=1C1NHXL_enUS7 13&espv=2&biw=1033&bih=551&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ& sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjogred687PAhVJYiYKHZ2EDfMQsAQIGw#q =spout%20wiring%20diagram%2085%20ranger%202wd&tbm=isc h&tbs=rimg%3ACYJAANOLeTLwIjj4NzZngjBPGwHx4OeozB1rh MUNkRbLtW9MaoPtt0rgldGRWdHnLkacT4- kt_1KyD7jCD2BqFnJsoSoSCfg3NmeCME8bEXPimIQIVMozKhIJ AfHg56jMHWsRwZxGNWBEyYAqEgmExQ2RFsu1bxHNsShSINi 40ioSCUxqg- 23SuCVEXn6mkR3ngyTKhIJ0ZFZ0ecuRpwRdpDenIjyrpEqEglPj6 S38rIPuBG- deCbQiy7VCoSCcIPYGoWcmyhEdllYeoleqcw&imgrc=gkAA04t5 MvA6GM%3A

Well, I finally seem to have gotten it going. I have done so much I'm not sure what fixed it. First, I took it to a mechanic who didn't want much to do with it. he did replace my MAP Sensor and then my Distributor. Neither fixed the problem and I brought the truck back home because he didn't have time or space for it and I didn't have more money to give him anyways... So I got a few more parts myself to put into it. Also I accidentally drained my battery, had A-zone charge and check it. I replaced my positive battery terminal because it was crap. and my fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose because it was the last old vacuum hose left. I had some weird stuff happen from the extra juuice first time(from battery terminal connection), I also had replaced the dist cap, rotor and spark plug wires. It ran smoother but the problem with the hesitations was still there. then I replaced the tfi module again ( was the first thing I did initially) and it didn't work, but the timing was also off at this point because it seems the guy that did the Distributor left it loose? because it still can turn which i believe adjusts my timing. anyways, I got the dist at a position near what it was when I picked it up and removed the in-line conector for the SPOUT and started it up to get a base timing. it ran well, I put the connector back in to let the computer decide its timing advance and it ran well and so far I've done a couple short trips and its going well. Oh I also redid the rf shielding on the spout and pip and ground wires but that didn't seem to work or at least wasn't the last thing i did....

Your Answer

Add photo

Related Questions

Ranger

Looking for a Used Ranger in your area?

CarGurus has 6,919 nationwide Ranger listings starting at $1,500.

ZIP:

Search Ford Ranger Questions

Ford Ranger Experts

#1 FordNut
FordNut
Reputation 1,330
#2 tennisshoes
tennisshoes
Reputation 970
#3 Tracy Hooks
Tracy Hooks
Reputation 720
View All

Related Models For Sale

Used Ford F-150
3,368 Great Deals out of 205,061 listings starting at $1,273
Used Chevrolet S-10
9 Great Deals out of 1,629 listings starting at $2,450
Used Ford Mustang
724 Great Deals out of 38,165 listings starting at $1,750

Used Cars For Sale

2011 Ford Ranger For Sale
71 Great Deals out of 1,248 listings starting at $3,990
2010 Ford Ranger For Sale
22 Great Deals out of 523 listings starting at $3,450
2009 Ford Ranger For Sale
20 Great Deals out of 403 listings starting at $3,999
2008 Ford Ranger For Sale
21 Great Deals out of 557 listings starting at $2,895
2007 Ford Ranger For Sale
23 Great Deals out of 373 listings starting at $1,995