solenoid keeps going out

Asked by Oct 23, 2016 at 11:29 PM about the 1986 Ford F-250

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

i drive a 86 ford f250. i recently replaced the battery, starter, and solenoid.
the first time, it started up a few times, then the starter kept cranking and
the only way to stop it was disconnect the battery. by the time i got this
done the starter was well burned up so i replaced it and the solenoid again,
assuming Oriley gave me a bad part. the same thing happened again as
soon as i replaced them. after about 4 starts the starter stayed engaged
until the battery was disconnected. i checked all my wires and ignition
switch and cant find anything wrong. i figure something is happening to
cause the solenoid to stay engaged and let power through it even when it is
not recieving power. i just don't know what could be causing this in such
short periods of time

5 Answers

300

It's been. A while since I've worked on that age of a Ford but if I remember correctly the problend you are having originates in the (electrical ignition switch ) at the bottom of the steering column there is a long flat switch to which a rod coming from the upper key switch assembly . What happens is one of two things .the switch slides out of place due to b use or loose bolts and doesn't disengage properly .or the contacts in the switch wear out . The rod pushes dpwn on the inner part of the switch sliding it thru Ignition 1 ,ignition 2 and then start position .when you release the key it springs back to settle at ignition 2 position if the switch is misadjusted even tho your key cylinder looks like it has sprung back the switch itself is still at start position. Recap .. ..electrical ignition switch ,bottom of steering column 2 small bolts you can't miss it. It's about 3 to 4 inches long with all the wires to the column attached . I think they run about 40 bucks .note ..the rod just pips into the switch do NJ ot bend it. Just ease it out of its slot and after switch is replaced wprk the key cylinder and adjust the switch position so tgat you can verify if it on 1 position ..then ignition 2 position then start position . Snug up blots dpnt over tighten as theyvare very small and tend to strip ...good luck

i appreciate your help but i don't believe that is it. this truck was given a bush button start some time ago so it was pretty simple for me to check if that was the problem. i disconnected both ignition wires and reconnected the battery with the key still not in it and the starter still fired up. any other guesses? thanks!

300

Starter isn't shimmer properly into the bell housing .when it starts it won't let the be dix return so it just rides along with the flywheel till it burns starter out ..usually happens when the shim plate between the engine and the transmission is put back after replacing one or the other .second .cause .wrong starter .3rd cause bent shim.plate.all.of these things are ford specific .try this ...remove starter .ground it well .have someone work the start button .watch starter repeat starting action quite a few times .if it shuts off when installed .everytime you need to either figure out if it's the wrong starter or if somet I ing is binding it up against the flywheel ..now that you said it had a button put on it. I'd bet a donut this isn't the first time it's happened to previous owner .

80

Id say the problem lies in the fact youre using oreilleys electical parts. DONT BUY ANYTHING ELECTRICAL FROM OREILLEYS IF POSSIBLE. I have a diesel and did the same thing though my starter never burned up. I finally cracked after replacing starter solenoid numerous times and bought the heaviest duty the store had.. ....napa not oreilleys .....and never had any problems since. Too much current draw across the contacts inside the solenoid .....aka...chinese made junk solenoids and oreilleys are the bottom of the barrel junk. Alternators, starters, relays, solenoids, etc.....all have max life of 1 year at best from oreilleys.

80

If thats not the problem then go with above answer regarding the column switch.

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