Is a G54 tranny a c6?


Asked by Jan 29, 2013 at 07:03 PM about the 1977 Ford F-150

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a 1977 Ford F150 with a 400. I previously posted that it might have a  FMX tranny. I found out otherwise. On the tag where the vin numb. is, it says G54. Now please, explain what a g54 is. I search it on google and they come up with toyota transmissions. This can't be right because Toyota is a German based product, Fords american. SOMEONE HELP!

11 Answers

No. A G54 is a Toyota transmission and it's not German, it's a USA built Japanese part


But in 1977 there was not a 400 that went in to F150's, they came with 360 or 390, in 1878 they went to the 351 Cleveland or Windsor. So somebody swapped engines and could be anything


The 400 engine was used from 1977 thru 1979. The 390 was used in 1975 and '76. The 400 replaced the 390 as they stopped production of all of the FE 360/390 engines and closed the plant in 1976. Sop your 400 engine is probably original equipment. OK, now onto the trans. The Ford parts book chart shows a "G" listed in the transmission space on the VIN tag as a 3-speed automatic and not a C-6 so I will assume it's an FMX which they did put behind the 400's. I'm still trying to figure out the 54. that number on a VIN tag normally stands for D.S.O. or where the vehicle was built which in this case "54" would mean Kansas City. But with what I can muster up from your information you have a 1977 F-150 with a 400 engine and an FMX transmission. Here's an excellent website for info on your truck. It's located at Good Luck, Kenny/MrBlueOval

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MrBlueOval, I have to thank you for all that helpful knowledge. As the saying goes "Knowledge is power." You my friend, have a lot of it behind the Ford Era. I have quiet a bit of knowledge for being 17. Thank you very much.

I stand corrected on the 77's not offering the 390. When I bought my '78 I thought it was the first year the Windsor 351 was available, I had a LOT of trouble at first with the main seals on the crankshaft leaking..badly. It turned out at the factory they had put the wrong crankshaft in the engine, they had installed the crankshaft designed for a marine application, that for whatever reason, the engine turns the other way, and the oil splines on the crank that force the oil back in to the crankcase were backward, forcing the oil OUT and going through seals like nothing. They finally figured it out at the dealer and they put an entirely new engine in it for me at less than 8,000 miles, back when the warranty was only 12 months or 12,000 miles. That was their excuse, it was the first year and assembly, production problems were not all ironed out yet, at least that's what they told me, and it was a looooong time ago. I also thank you MrBlueOval, I learned something


MrBlueOval, If I could ask of one more favor from you, if you could pull up a site like the one that you got for the 1973-1979 trucks for the 1980's series, that would be amazing, and it would be greatly appreciated. I tried searching for it myself but I couldn't find anything on Fordification. Thanks for all your help! Tyler

I am of course not Mr BlueOval Tyler but you might like this one: › ... › F-Series Past to Present › F-Series: 1987-1996


Tyler, Thanks for the compliment, please mark my answer as best as that adds points to my score. I'm pretty far away from DavidH25's score but I'm working on it. I've got a full custom '79 F-250 4x4 that believe it or not, I bought brand new. It was special ordered by me and special built. There is and never was another one like it ever built as my father and I both worked for Ford back then and had high-up connections in Detroit ( actually Dearborn ) at the time. It now has only 39K original one owner miles on it. I know these trucks litterally inside and out.. To the best of my knowledge, there isn't a site that deals with just the 1980's Ford trucks. They will never be as popular as the earlier ones but another very helpful site is Ford Truck Enthusiasts at They cover most all years of the Ford pickups. Their forums are at If you scroll about 1/2 way down, You'll see the 1980's section. This is also a very good Ford truck site. I've been involved on that site since it's birth years in 1999 when the internet was only a few years old. I've been on the internet since it's inception in the early '90's.. The Fordification site isn't that old and used to only have 1967-72 Ford F-series trucks at their dot com site. They just recently opened and now have the '73-79 dot net site as well. I'm sure they have plans for a 1980's site too but just not yet. I've contributed to all 3 sites over the years. Any other questions, just ask. I'm here to assist. BTW< I also own and operate my own Ford Truck 1/25th scale model site called Blue Oval Resinworks, it's located at Kenny/MrBlueOval


David, that 351 with the oiling problem you had was infact a very common problem in the 351-M engines. It seems Ford designed the rear main seal badly and almost all of them lost oil pressure at one time or another. Mine actually went out on an interstate highway (rt 57) on the way to a carshow at 60 mph back in 1995 when I had a little over 37K miles on it. Luckily I monitor my gauges all the time in my vehicles while I'm driving so I noticed it right away, shut the truck off and pulled it over to side of the road. I filled it up with 2 bottles of motor honey and drove it home at no more than 35mph, shutting it off a few times on the way to cool down. I replaced the seal and had no problems since but have only put a couple thousand miles on it since. Kenny/MrBlueOval


Kenny, the second you mentioned the 1/25th scale models, I took a look, I'm a collector of those also, I try to build them as best as I can, I've built over 250+ in 17 years and I have them all set up, Kenny/David I was also curious, what is the best way to wire in a toggle switch in a high pressure fuel pump on a 83? I know it should be a low pressure pump on the side of the motor, but due to a motor swap back in 2002, it now has a 302 EFI and I can't get any power down to the pump. I'd rather bipass all the bullshit and hook up a toggle switch., if you could offer me some more advice on that, it'd also be greatly appreciated.

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