1989 S10 runs, but won't go


Asked by May 31, 2014 at 06:19 PM about the 1989 Chevrolet S-10

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have an 1989 s10 pickup with a 2.8 v6 fuel injected motor, 5 speed.
It starts, and as long a s I give it gas it stays running. It revs up like it wants to go, but When I try to drive it, it stalls out, like no gas and will not go, but still revs and runs.  
I thought is was a fuel filter.  changed that.
I thought it may be the pump relay, changed that
I thought it may be the fuel pump, changed that.
I can hear the pump run, for a couple of seconds, when I turn on the key.
Replaced the distributer cap and rotor.

What's next?

12 Answers


Sound like possible dirty/faulty idle air control valve or dirty throttle plate. The iac for your vehicle is only about fifty dollars or so. ( cheap compared to most) That's what I would check next.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

If it idles the iac should be fine. It says the truck is a 5 speed. Im assuming you can drive a stick right? Could ve a linkage problem, or maybe the rear end. Can the truck roll if pushed?


been driving more than 40 years, I can drive a clutch. it does not idle for more than 5-10 sec. I can drive it up the street, but not without constantly feathering the clutch and revving it up. I step on the gas and it boggs and dies. As soon at the motor gets a load on it, it stalls. and will not accelerate, This is why I first thought of filter.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Has it been sitting un driven for a while?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

about a month now, due to this issue. It is my daily commute vehicle. The check engine light has been coming on for a while, mostly when I am on the freeway in 5th gear in low RPM, 55-60 MPH. I did check the codes and got 12,12,12,13,13. This is what I found for that Code2.8 VIN R 13 - Oxygen Sensor Open Circuit Open circuit would these symptoms be indicative of a bad Oxygen Sensor ?

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

check 4 plug exhaust


did it stop after the 2nd code 13? They are supposed to flash 3 times and end with code 12 again. These engines dont relay on the o2 sensor heavily, however i would recommend it to optimize mpg's. A couple things come to mind, TPS, MAP sensor, fuel, and ignition timing. The filter is a good start. If you can get a timing light it would be a good idea to check, but if no work has been done to it recently then that probably wont be it. The TPS and MAP are responsible for adjusting the engine under load and detecting when it is "at Idle". They can be tested with a volt meter. I didn't mean to offend about the driving a clutch question, but i have had questions on here boil down to the driver not actually knowing how to operate a vehicle, even with automatics occasionally...


and vacuum leaks, came to me literally as i hit post. With all the vacuum lines on these things some get brittle


no worries about offending. Thanks for helping!! After the 13,13,13 it went to 3 longs,3 longs, 3 longs and then, I think, 12,12,12. I need to get a friend to help so I can check for vacumn leaks. What is the easy way to check the MAP and TPS sensors.?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L- 5.7L/how-to-test-the-map-sensor-1 http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_tps_test/pickup_va n_tps_1.php double check the engine codes again, make sure there wasnt a code 33, as that is the MAP sensor code. 3 long flashes by themselves dont make sense. I belive the 2.8 map sensor will have a vacuum line going to it, if it is bad it will cause it not to work

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I'm having the same problem with my 89 s10 blazer 2.8 4x4 Starts and Idles fine as soon as I go to first gear bogs down but doesn't shuts off I did the complete gas system tank, fuel pump injectors tps sensor, timing chain, distributor ,computer did a tune up still having the same problem I check for a vacuum leak I hear no noise or rough idle Iwould hate to get rid off the blazer if someone has some info I would appreciate

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I would start by doing a compressiong test on all cylinders just to make sure before throwing more money into it. A wet compression test can also pin point the valves and pistons. If this is at the manufacturer's PSI's then I would worry about the other stuff. Hope this works.

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