350 motor

Asked by Mar 16, 2017 at 12:40 AM about the 1980 Chevrolet Impala

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Is $1100 a good or bad price to rebuild a
chevy 350 engine

22 Answers


If its just rings & seals Feels too high.


Are they pulling the motor too or you taking it to them?

Naw iam takeing it to them


If it has not been inspected yet, They may have to replace bearings, pistons, cam and some valves and if that is the case then unless you get charged extra for those items then your o.k. but if its just take it apart clean it up and hone cylinders put new ring set in its a little high even if they do the same on heads just clean and put in seals still feels high, your not buying a built rebuilt engine from them. At GM you can still get a new engine block & heads complete for $1600 and rockauto.com has them cheaper than that Longblocks (block & heads complete) from $1200-1266. I post the URL below Copy & paste it, it is for 1980 Chevy Malibu 5.7l 350



O ok thanks yea they doin a full rebuild i found a deal on a 350 out of 72 chevelle for 250 obo.


I just checked shipping for the complete long block to my house it was $128.00 1-6 DAYS delivery. Click on the blue info to get some details on their rebuilds. BTW if you watch Garage squad and ever see them buy any parts including engines they get them from rockauto.com


$250 for the 72 sign me up. Full rebuild if they do all the fit honing and resurfacing & polishing an d3 angle valve job too I think it should be fine at $1100 but I will say that the rockauto's longblocks come with 3 year warranty but its not going to be a 72 block and your core will be giving them gold. So I would keep the 72 and make sure they are a good shop do research.

Yea i am still look up there tho


Most these older blocks were fairly balance (bottom end) but may not hurt to check, if they do a balance & blueprint it ups the cost double, if its not a race car or going to get hit with a nitrous kit or 3 kits then its big money spent. I'am Happy you found a 72 350 they were under (hp & Torque) rated & gas hogs but you can pedal it to keep the 4 barrel from opening all the time. I would think about a TCI or just as good brand Street performer Torque converter & a shift kit in trans.


I have heard of car monkey and looked at it a few times but never bought anything from them.

O ok cool thanks for the info


No problem, your welcome.


here...all fresh...free shipping... www.summitracing.com/parts/fme- 350g8795/overview/

I got a question i am thinkin about building me a 350 engine. What all i need if i starting off with just an 350 block. Tell me what all i need to make ir a runing engine


Everything minus the block parts wise. The block if used needs machined for rebuild and you need everything. Not just a rebuild kit unless it has a whole engine parts list. Crank & Crankshaft Repair Sleeves if needed, mains, bearings & seals front & back, timing chain set kit & cover & sprocket/gears, Bolts, oil pump kit, oil pick up tubes & strainer, rods & bearings, pistons & repair sleeves if needed, rings & seal kit, cam, cam bearings & seals, oil pan & plug with gasket, water pump, Gasket kit (upper & lower), intake, distributor & distributor gear & wires set & spark plugs, points or conversion kit, or rotor & vacuum advance & gasket & coil, Heads & spacer if needed & bolt kits & washers, valves, push rods & Push Rod Guide Plate, rockers, lifters, springs, shims & retainer keepers locks, stem seals, Guides, carb, Camshaft Bolt Lock Plate, Hardware nuts & bolts & washers, pulleys, windage oil trays, Camshaft Thrust Button, freeze plugs, engine block coolant drain plug, Harmonic Balancer, Oil Temperature Sender, ect not counting accessories or anything I forgot.

Do they sell any of this stuff n kits together or i got to buy it piece my piece. N how much u think iam spent on all that stuff only reason i might do it like this is cause i dont have the 1500 right now up front to buy a crate 350 engine from jegs


If your buying the block and it does not need machined or is already done and then buying all these starting from scratch and buying it part by part until finished, realize that when a builder builds a motor it is matched, machined to match the part it fits too, each part has to be checked (measured in many different ways with tools you do not have on hand) as the process moves forward, for example the crank and journals if tolerances are too tight then the block or crank has to be machined to match each other exact, since we are talking about tiny measurements that mean all the difference in the world, it has to be measured and machined exactly, mains need aligned bored. Decking a cylinder block produces a more even, flatter deck surface, which promotes better cylinder sealing. Have the cylinder block honed with a torque plate installed if possible. Balancing the engine parts that make up the rotating assembly is highly recommended. You say are not all parts the same, you would think but the fact is or better said is any of the engine parts the same and the answer is no (close but no cigar). Some parts or blocks had issues and the part installed was too big so a lot of material can be gone and the new part you buy is too loose so this has to be addressed, with larger mains, shims, welds ect, there is parts to compensate for all this, just in the build process it has to figured out what is needed or needs to be done (machined), the measuring tool and techniques tell you what it needs so each engine is built, machined and made not just produced. Going this route can save a few bucks or cost a few bucks more you just never know until you have the block and measure to buy the crank and then on to the next part. When starting with a new or old block it has to be machined for the build (the parts you want in it), A game plan needs written what are you starting with and where are you going. All stock get the block take it to a engine machine shop and tell them you want it ready for the build all stock and if they get right on it or later they will call and say you need this or that or you can not go stock you have to go over sized or you need this size, do you want it machined for upgraded seals or you need this size mains or use this instead of stock & get the ok from you to continue to mill it, after you get it back a at-home machining process involves tapping or chasing all of the bolt holes on the cylinder block. he preparation of your engine block is very important and a well machined block will mean a long lasting engine that will give you many miles of performance and enjoyment. Your block by now should be cleaned, magnafluxed, all bolt holes tapped clean, plus all head bolts and main bolt holes need to be bottom tapped. As long as you do not have more than .0025 to .003 piston to wall clearance after honing you can use your stock piston set up. I recommend file fit rings especially in this situation because stock end gap rings tend to have too much end gap clearance. A zero gap ring like Childs & Albert or Total Seal also works great on performance or stock rebuilt street engines. If you need to overbore and hone your engine, make sure the machinist has the pistons for your engine, before he starts his machine work. Once you have the cylinders done, honed or rebored, the main line checked and or align honed, the deck surface cleaned or resurfaced it is time to check other areas of the block that may need attention. The front of the block where the camshaft turns against sometimes gets badly worn. If your block is worn measure the depth of the wear. Use bronze spacers to repair this problem (thrust button kit) & machinist needs kit to complete this milling for cam and crank spacer/buttons. always use new bolts. Save all your engine block plugs ect as these get lost at the machine shop. After clearances are checked and addressed deburr all bearings with a deburring knife, sand all surfaces lightly with 600 grit wet and dry and then use very fine Scotch Brite or Brite Rite in a solvent bath. After cleaning with solvent, blow air dry the bearings. And too much to list here but that is a start to your hours of work. A crate motor has already addressed all this if its from a good seller you just need to decide the heads or if those come with it you decide the intake and carb and accessory brackets and pulleys, valve covers, headers or manifolds ect, which way do you want it, do you have a power steering pump and a/c so you need those pulleys too.


The cheapest way to get it done is to find a car/truck with the motor you want that is wrecked and pull that engine & trans, you want it running, no smoke or odd noises. check for motor oil leaks at cam and crank seals front and back these locations as this indicates worn metal and this is a weak point as they did not come factory with trust kits. Look for wet areas along the bottom of heads. Look for milky color in oil or on underside of oil cap and radiator. Look for low mileage but not been sitting for very long. Need to be able to crank it up. With the motor out get a engine stand, pull oil pan off and look at the bottom end looking for burned main bearings and any issues with torqued bolts, clean up pan and oil pump & strainer or replace it along with the oil pan gasket. Pull the valve covers before putting oil pan on and look for loose or worn rockers & pushrods and oil caking to head (if so you may need to clean the motor oil passageways and drain out the bottom, if make sure the bottom end is clean before oil pan is installed, this is a good time to install a new water pump and any other thing that is problematic. Get it and install it. This will give you time and experience working with this engine, do some headers, and exhaust. Upgrade the ignition system. Upgrade the pulleys & belts to serpentine belt & pulleys. Get everything figured out with the 350 setup in your car, may even decide to install a cam or new heads or install roller rockers or carb (Not a giant carb remember to much gas is worse than just enough fuel, can not drive a car with a flooded out engine). Drive it while you do upgrades, See how the trans is working (while out and before install do a fluid/filter change and install a shift kit (basic kit like for towing). If ever need to overhaul it everything is all setup, just do so before it quits running for reasons other than bottom end cause if it is still running you can skip most of the machine work, you just pull the motor take off your upgraded parts, if the motor has not thrown a rod or got bent out of shape you have all the parts needed already matched to your block and all you need is a basic rebuild kit mains, bearings, ring kit, gaskets & seals. Unless you want to do the trust button upgrade and have a hone done and get the block cleaned up, if it had not run until mains went bad ect, then you can use a normal rebuild kit and save a lot of money. Your crank and rods & pistons all good then you do not need new ones and do not need them machined again as they were done already now you could have them balanced and the new mains align borred. Have the cam checked if its still good, can reuse it if not buy another and check fit, it should be fine tho. Since you have heads assembled you can send them to a shop for a overhaul (pressure checked, new seals, resurfaced, cleaned, valves reseated), you already have all the parts and they were once all together and matched. Its what I would do.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

Another thing if you buy a wrecked car/truck with the 5.7L you can look for one that says engine or trans rebuilt so & so miles ago and when installing if you need engine/trans mounts may can use those on the other ride you already have them and when a electrical connector from your car does not match the connector on the 5.7L walk over the wreck and cut off that connector and connect it to you wiring, Some other Gm parts interchange as-well, If the radiator is still good and yours is smaller pull the bigger unti and install it in yours, It has the hoses you need to. I have seen these diamonds in the rough for less than $750 or less and when you done you can still sell the shell with you old engine and trans sitting in it and scrap it for 1/3 or more of you money back or take it all apart and sell those parts and make more than you spent, if your old motor still runs then someone needs it. Hint I would save all the electrical wiring, bulbs, fuses, anything that could be used on yours for future replacement parts.

Thanks so much everyone



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