RE: Maintenance of FX3 ride adjusting actuators.
My '92 LT-1 coupe has the ride control feature, with the mechanically adjustable shocks. 2 actuators are not functional. The repair is $125 per actuator, the new build wil use metal rather than resin adjusters. Does anyone know if this repair is worthwhile? The cost for all 4 will be $600. I have 47K , and wonder if this will be a final fix, or will these continue to fail. The ride is very harsh now, I think they may be stuck in track or sport mode. Any idea the life of the shocks themselves? Thanks in advance for any info or suggestions.
Amazing to me no one has experience with this suspension. I had a code read from the DIC, the 2 actuators are both on the passenger side, registering different problems, one is slow, the other not moving. I guess I'll send those for repair, reset the codes and reinstall. I will report result. The Bilstien shocks seem OK, no leaks, no bounce, don't know how long these last before rebuild?
My 92 coupe had the service ride control light covered with black tape by prev. owner, and I am glad I finally addressed the issues. He said it would be costly, but it ultimately was not, and I find the function worthwhile. The codes revealed my right front was slow and right rear not turning. The control defaulted to performance, which made the ride punishing, hard and harsh, great for track, but not really everyday use. I felt that couldn't possibly be the norm. I had those actuators removed, sent them to captainzcnc.com in WI. for rebuild and test. The cost was $125 ea. and ordered the shock gear replacements @ $6 ea. just to make sure those would not crack down the road. They also have the C clips available. The turnaround was a week. The cheap plastic gear is replaced with an aluminum one, eliminating that weak point. When reinstalling actuators, turn the shock gear several times to insure it turns freely, it should turn only 45 degrees. Rotate the gear clockwise, as far as it will travel, reinstall the actuator(s), with lead wire facing straight back, parallel to vehicle. Clear the codes, as others mentioned, jumping A and C terminals 3 times spaced 2 seconds apart. I found the service light would not blink after the reset was registered, and it sometimes took multiple tries to accomplish. Turn key to run for diagnostic at start, if all is well, the SRC light extinguishes. Now the ride control is functioning, this is what you can expect. On Tour, (softest) setting, the ride is compliant and somewhat floaty, bobbing a bit like an average sedan. Sport is firm and controlled, without the bobbing, but not as hard as the Performance setting, which is Very firm and tight. My total cost was under $375 for the shop visits and rebuilds for 2 actuators. My left front actuator has a cracked gear, but still functions, so I'll leave the other 2 until one quits. I have 50K on the vehicle, and the shocks are still good. All in, the pre 96 ride control is pricey for what it does, but for some, provides flexibility. If standard base shocks are used, deactivating the ride control, some drivers would find it too soft, or if performance units installed, too hard for daily use, so ride control does offer an advantage. Hope this helps someone else facing this dilemma.
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