car willnot pass smog because of code scanner po340.What does code po340 mean

Asked by Nov 27, 2013 at 07:46 PM about the 1999 Toyota RAV4

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

13 Answers

109,975

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0340 --- check this out it will give you some possible causes and solutions

11 of 11 people found this helpful.

Dandy...you mean I gotta look this up now with your reference...you expect US to do the heavy lifting here....aina~

2 of 2 people found this helpful.

for example you may have said~ A code P0340 could mean one or more of the following has happened: a wire or connector in the circuit could be grounded/shorted/broken the camshaft position sensor may have failed the PCM may have failed there exists an open circuit the crankshaft position sensor may have failed

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

I'm going to go ahead and insist that you follow the black battery cable to the place where it bolts to the frame....wirebrush the frame and wirebrush the lug for a full 300 cold cranking amps potential~....and get a NEW battery as yours is certainly older than five years old~

109,975

Can't and wont do all the work for you, judge. Thought only teenagers wanted everything just handed to them. Lol

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

I'm crippled and stoned....does that qualify?

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

okay, let's start with the crankshaft sensor~ https://www.google.com/#q=1999+toyota+rav4+crankshaft+sensor

1 of 1 people found this helpful.
109,975

Ok I will do it for you.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

okay if these engineers had their thinking caps on they'd have made this the exact same part~ https://www.google.com/#q=1999+Toyota+RAV4+cam+position+sensor

you know it did not say the sensor was bad...but the connection to the sensor...some kinda monkey held captive under the hood jerkin' at wires?

these work on field effect transistor logic...and if tested would test absolutely nothing....0 ohms~...but if they tested but anything other than that would be suspicious as they measure minuscule voltages and perhaps with an oscilloscope could see the pulses with a lineman's splice into the output~ VEEEERY delicate stuff here...ain't a drop forge in Cleveland, I tell ya~

the car still runs in "fail safe" mode~CEL...heck ya~ but honestly in my heart of hearts see the black cable as it attaches to the chassis/ground gettin' clobbered up with corrosion from repeated 300 or more Amps starts each time leaving a trace from the Blue spark that ignites the connection each time leaving in it's wake a layer of semi-conductor corrosion which the ignition and fuel pump don't care about...but the ECU simply loses it's mind with varying available amperages and varying voltages...SO this here is all for naught if you do as I say and clean the lug off the battery to the spot where it attaches with a coarse wirebrush with a new battery....clear the codes with a 17 dollar scanner and you'll be just in time for your samba lesson~

in other words....crap voltages in....crap processes out~ let's get some solid 12.5 VDC goin' to the brain...it will figure out that there is plenty of signal from the crank and cam sensors....do you remember in science class when they'd move a magnet over a spool of wire and show you that voltages were produced by that? well crossin' in front of the cam or crank sensors is pretty much a delicate affair~ NEEDS CLEAN POWER or it ain't gonna make any sense to the computer...like stirring meow-mix into the chili while the family starves~

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