I recently changed my fuel pump to a 2005 Toyota corolla. Now my car won't even start. I need some help. Is there a way I can reset this fuel pump and is there a switch?
Fuel pump replaced. New spark plugs. Relay still in
good condition about to get a new one. Is there a
reset switch anywhere? Is there any Manual way of
resetting a fuel pump?
Is there any chance you accidentally crossed the lines when you reinstalled the pump / put everything back together? You may also look around for an inertia switch but it takes a pretty good whack to make that trip.
Pump does not run? power and ground are both available at the pump? Relay operates and sends power ? You can access the top of the pump easy? fuses are all good ?
Did the car start before replacing the fuel pump?
Antcastle, are you subscribed to your question? We need info to help you..
Fuses are good. The car did not start before putting in the new pump. And for some reason my key transponder unlock/lock isn't working. Well lock isn't working and unlocking works.
How do I know if the relay is working? It doesn't look burned out or anything
Okay so.. Take a few steps back.. It cranks but doesn't run? Doesn't crank at all? How did you assess that you needed a fuel pump? Any codes? Please list all symptoms, etc.
Yes, It has an inertia switch that shuts off fuel. To re-set, turn key to "ACC" then 'start'. Yes, that simple. (Owners manual Page 174) And please answer walth. We need that
To test a relay swap it with another known good one, if it works then you know. You can use another relay from same junction box
Yes, and taking it from the top... is there a power and a ground at the fuel pump ? if no, then going from there, reset the inertia. retrace your steps. If relays work, they click. if there was connection trouble between the relay and the pump ? or ground was lost ? I would read the schematic, then inspect the connectors between......for any car. A test light or a cheap DVOM is a must for any person working on a car. and you can get them very inexpensively when buying your parts nowadays. or theres harbor freight. The schematic is free at the public library or some can be found online, they are not always correctly marked or identified tho.
The asker said,....." I recently changed my fuel pump, Now my car wont even start .".......to me, this says retrace your work and reverify and redefine the symptoms. Get the tools and schematic, read the service manual about how the system works. Identify if your keyfob concern is about a factory installed unit, look up how to service and reset the fobs and the module. If it is the thing the asker changed during their fuel pump replacement, the info is free at the library on mitchell database in house. I hope, factory manuals have also been donated. We cannot see the car from here. And you can have a q+A with a dealer advisor perhaps to identify what you bought ? if needed.
If the car was rewired by a stereo shop or an alarm shop ? You can inspect your warranty papers. most people keep them in the glove compartment. If you have AAA you might need to have it taken to where you bought it and bring your old parts and paperwork.
Ok last time I fueled up to full next day there was no turnover as I tried to start it only cranking...so a mechanic use starting fluid to turn on my car (it worked)and then it immediately shut off. So he told me it was the fuel pump. This is where I messed up. I baught the part and he installed it. He told he had the car running and when I tried it a couple hours later it did the same cranking but no turn over. I did not see him install the part because I had to work. I did however change the spark plugs before he installed the pump thinking it was bad spark plugs. I know I haven't had new spark plugs since I have been using the car which was my wife's car that she got in 2010. She has never had her car worked on other than a oil change.
The car has a new battery. I just got it in November 2014.. it has been sitting for about 2 weeks now. Maybe the battery is low?
you had a cranks but wont start on the wifes car. it has no repair history. since 2010. you had just filled the fuel tank. a mechanic tried to run it on starting fluid. result was start/die. He asked you to get a new pump, you did, he installed it when you were at work. He told you it starts and runs now. It doesn't. It cranks but wont start.............question now is; is the system purged completely of air? will it start with gas or fluid sprayed in? can you get the battery up over 12V ? If not ? You need your mechanic to complete the work, rework it. or continue the diag. If you cannot answer any of the questions in this thread so far, you need experienced hands or take it to a reputable garage.
Firstly, your battery has to be fine.. it is new and with as much cranking as you've done, if it were weak, the cranking would slow to a crawl and eventually just click the starter relay. Second, I hate this for you man.. There are tons of possible scenarios and it is hard for us to pinpoint specifics with non-hands-on over the web diagnostics. Not to mention, you may also have an "input" or part that is failing intermittently - since the mechanic said it was running but now isn't?? That's the hard to pin point issue. Danny.. this site is about fixing things -somewhat- without a mechanic. Yeah, it might be worth it to Ant to call the gentleman who changed the pump and let him know (I figure you might have done this already?) Ant, when you turn the car to ACC it should prime the fuel pump for like 1.5-3 seconds. I've read that some people don't hear it just by turning to ACC and then try cranking (turning from ACC to ON) and then when they stop cranking (ON to ACC) they hear the whirr of the pump for a second or so and it turns off. Can you verify for us if your pump is or isn't turning on / priming the fuel? You could kneel down by the ground listening for the whirr of the fuel pump. Do you recall if the old pump primed? It's okay if you don't. Talk soon,
Fixing things somewhat without a mechanic, that is what this site is about....suggesting things to people...asking simple questions that after the fourth time still havent been answered. having incompetent people take the guys money for inadequate parts made in china, and then reading him his owners manual at curbside while he textures the ceiling, brilliant.
By his own description, the car was driven by someone else for ten years without the correct maintenance parts being replaced. " It has never had anything more done than an oil change". That tells me he is behind by several fuel filters. We all know fuel has dirt in it and gets dirt added to it many ways. That dirt goes through his pump and eventually gets into his injectors. His best hope is to have a 60K type maintenance list performed by a competent technician. Then his tests can be run and his readings can be believed by whomever. Then you guys can futs around the cluster all you like. and read p 932
I'm getting a diagnostic test done soon and will keep you posted.
Ok so I got an obd diagnostic test and it showed nothing wrong with my the car. I did try the sound check for the pump and lifted the back seat to get a better listen and no humming sound. I was also trying to get a electrical sensor going on to see if there was any reading and could not get a sign of electricity. I was trying to get a good ground by the metal under the seat not sure if that's good enough but I also tried the bolts around the car and still no sign of electricity. Could it be that this pump was set up wrong?
It could be the fuel pump relay, neutral safety switch / clutch switch, weak electrical connection to your MAF (or comparable and depends on design). Search online for a wiring schematic ignition or fuel. Is it the same guy testing it that out in the pump? Just in case you did it differently, You have to have the probes in the ground and power of the fuel pump connector and then turn the key to acc and monitor the multimeter to see if it primes the pump for 1.5-3 seconds. You can also bypass the safety switch -please ONLY- to see if that is your problem..
Also Note* Gas tank is still fuel of gas. Last thing I did before the fuel pump "stopped working"
Yeah, I remember. I know it is frustrating but you gotta eliminate a system from the problem. Process of elimination
No this is just me a friend and google + cargurus now. I'm thinking the issue is at the pump now. Cross lines (first post) would that still be possible at this point? Yes the car was switched to On to check electricity.
If this mechanic put in the fuel pump while tank was full of gasoline could that be the problem too? I know some people prefer to drop the tank and empty the tank to fix fuel pumps form what I researched.
No.. That's why I asked about bad gas. Dropping the tank is for cars and trucks that don't have any other way of replacing the pump. Or if one puts diesel verses unleaded and there is no drain. But you said you are not priming so find a schematic, trace it, test it, fix it.
And I missed the post you asked about crosse lines.. If the mech got it running?? I doubt it. But you first need power. If you had power and it was running super bad then maybe.
Still havent asked your "mechanic" to show you his work is right and correct, huh? No answer still to 12v at the pump and a ground. no schematic yet. You must know that a processor runs the pump and decides based on inputs from the parts depicted in the schematic. The service manual tells you how the system is designed to work. I notice other questions are being asked without getting past the first question. is there 12v applied to the pump? and a ground. Sounded like a no answer, or an I need experienced hands on assistance. Call Your "mechanic" to show you.
where is the inerta switch in the 2005 Camry? Been trying to find it, and nothing.
You might want to buy a haynes manual Penny. Also, apparently inertia switches are mainly ford (which is most of what I've worked on).. http://www.fixya.com/cars/t2911171-2005_corolla_hit_in_front
I don't have an answer,but a question. The tank of my 2005 Toyota Corolla 1.6 has been having an usual level of pressure build up thus affecting its performance. What do I do?
Are you sure that's the reason? Have you looked on corolla forums for said issue?
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