No low end power
I have a '97 k1500 with a 350 and 4l60e automatic. Assuming all things are OK with the truck, would a bad fuel pressure regulator cause it to have no power at low rpm's? It always bogs under acceleration, wont peel out even when its wet, and must downshift to gain speed on the highway (but it still runs at the normal rpm range when on the highway).
do you have larger than stock tires and mighgt check the exhaust for leaks
check the ignition timing. you have to find the spout connector to force the computer to stop advancing the timing and set at base then make sure the engine is at operating temp and idling properly. then find your timing marks with the light and adjust it if needed.
alright, the exhaust is cutoff under the extended cab just past the cats, so its got low backpressure and that does rob some power but this power loss is recent. There is an exhaust leak near the manifold, but Im not sure if its enough to mess things up like that either. Now what in the world is a spout connector? And wouldn't the engine run horribly across all rpm's if the timing was off? Thanks Yal
poor timing has the most effect at idle whereas at higher rpm more advance is needed anyways. a spout connector is basically a small plastic plug that acts as a jumper. its in teh wiring for the distributor. some are by the dist, some by the ignition control module, and some by the pcm under the dash. check a service manual.
check the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump it could possibly be a clogged fuel filter but thats unlikley but a good idea to change it anyway
the fuel filter i replace last summer, so I doubt its clogged, when I have time Im going try to check the timing and look for this spout thing. Ill probably go ahead and replace the fuel pressure regulator anyway though, someone told me that I should replace it anyway (ive got 185000 miles). If the timing's bad though, dont I have to take a bunch of crap apart to change it then put it all back together and recheck? It seems like this could take a few millenia to do. Or is it simpler than I think? And you said something about idle, I think my idle is ok because it idles normal (smooth, 600rpm), but at times it has been going in to high idle more often, maybe because its been cold down here. The power issue is more notable at accelearation, especially hard acceleration, and I've notice my gas mileage has gone to hell lately too, on a recent road trip and a little bit of in town driving I got 15 mpg, where Ive gotten over 17 on road trips before. Thanks for the help yal!
if your timing chain is worn bad enough to make it run bad under acceleration then the truck would backfire. i changed the timing chain on my pickup in 6 hrs on a saturday not a big job
i have the same problem with my truck. its way bogged down during acceleration and one above the speed of 35 it has power again. and wont peel out, at all. did u ever figure out what was wrong? please let me know, thanks. my email is email@example.com, let me know if u figured out the problem please
i had a 94 350 that would act like it stalled when accelerating from a stop and ended up having to replace the egr valve, as for the burning out, re adjust ur timing but find haynes repair manual for ur truck some chevy's have an electronic timing advance which requires u to un hook a wire under the dash. mine wouldnt burnout till i got the timing dead on!!!!
Did anyone figure it out cause I have a 92 Chevy k1500 that won't peel out... I can floor it going up a hill and it will go about 35 mph don't like that and want it fix asap thanks I'd anyone see's this and replys....
Wow I found this post on accident, forgot about it after two years. Power has come and gone and I've since swapped engines and done other things. The MAF sensor and fuel pressure regulator were replaced and I have a feeling those were the culprits. MAF is expensive though, find one off another car, because I don't recommend anything other than factory equipment. Also not a bad idea to do a serious cleanup on the entire intake system and and run SeaFoam every once in a while. About the 94 and 92 trucks, it may be different problems; the 96-99 4th gen trucks have a different fuel injection system (Vortec SFI vs TBI) so they have different things that can go wrong with them.
I have a 95 gmc the wire ur talk about unhooking. ive unhooked and set timing and then hooked it back up after i do tht the timing advacnes 28 degrees and in neutral in bogs down in acceleration. i have replaced everything on the top end is new except push rods rocker arms value springs. please help im lost now.
Have you checked fuel pressure? Knock sensor will advance timing to prevent knock and if you're fuel pressure is low then it will run lean and knock causing the ignition to advance until it can't.
And it won't have much power
I have a similar problem only thing is my truck runs great until it warms up after warms up and I sit at a light and I take off when it shifts it wants to bog down can somebody help me please
Havin same problem, I have no fault codes yet one day my truck has lots of bottom end power and the next day it does not. I noticed the warmer weather seems to rob the power from it. 1998 5.0 vortec
I have a 1989 gmc sierra with a 350 TBI. I have also experienced lack of low end power lately when I take off from a stop. The timing, fuel delivery, even compression all checked out. The engine runs smooth at idle, no backfiring, no missing. It bogs until I hit about 35 mph and then it takes off and it takes off quick!! So..Could it be the torque converter??
IF THE ENGINE TEMP GUAGE OR TEMP SENSER IS NOT WORKING IT WILL RUN BAD BECAUSE THE COMPUTOR HAS NO WAY TO KNOW ENGINE TEMP To Adjust The Timming RESULT BAD LOW END POWER AND BAD GAS MILEAGE
I changed dist cap/ rotor/ plugs /adjust timming manually/changed to the new and improved spider on my 1998 3500 to no avail. changed out the temp senser and all power plus was restored... MY 1998-C3500 1 ton Get 25mpg on HWY 29 city with my other Mods
I have a 88 k2500 I have good idle and rev up in park it's very responsive but put in gear and gradually try to bring Rpms up with foot on brake and it bogs out almost stalling I release throttle and goes back to idle just fine any ideas or help please?
I had the same problem. No low end power untill I hit about 35mph then my engine seemed to wake up and scoot. 1998 C1500 5.0 A friend had the same problem and recommended changing the fuel injectors or spider as they call in on Chevy engines. I did, and the change was amazing. Try that, it's not cheap but def worth it. Make sure you upgrade to an MFI unit. This is the one I used. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/63886/02521.oap? year=1998&make=Chevrolet&model=C1500%2BPickup%2BRWD&vi= 5013350&ck=Search_02521_5013350_-1&pt=02521&ppt=C0024
98 z71 ran fine yesterday, got up this morning and at about 50 to 55 mph it has a skip or something. So anyone got anything
I have a 1992 Chevy Silverado 1500 4wd the 4wd trying to work but it ain't I just want to know what that problem can be!!! Thanks
I had the same problem. In my 1997 5.0L V8 K1500. Was caused by a number of things. First was a clogged catalitic converter, I replaced that to just a piece of pipe. Then you have the issue of throwing codes. Saying catalytic failure circuit bank two. Just put a spark pug de fowler to stop from throwing codes. The over issue was the cap and rotor was old, plus with new plugs and wires and distributed, made a large improvement to power. A lot more throttle response, and a lot better sound as I later changed muffles to a thrush turbo.
My truck Boggs down and losses power and if I try to get on it.It won't go like it should at all could it be Cadillac converter stop up or fuel fitter stopping up or spark plugs and wire I really don't know at all
Also my gas gauge don't work at all I check the fuse and it's good so I don't know anybody know what my problems are or could be
about a year ago i was driving my 97 5.7 vortex chev trk and it began to surge and bogg down , let some shaddy mech mess me around because i was broke down on the road they replace all the things that have been mention filters sensor checked timing ect. still wouldn't run right later they did a cylliner check and the left side had extremely low pressure around 30 lbs so had to replace the motor so before you let someone replace all these expences parts check the compression i learned the hard way spend $800 trying to fix a bad motor
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