battrey is good but truck makes no sound and wont even click
quite obviously the amps aren't getting through~ how do you know the battery is "good". the date on the tear-out stickers on the top of the battery will tell you the date is was first charged up~ if it is more than ten years old, we are getting a corpse to do the heavy lifting here--- a load test consists of a controlled dead short for three seconds then the ability to still start the car and charge up again inside of five hours---- batteries are not made from lead and don't have the same properties anymore...they are made from tin/antimony alloy...they always will need to be changed with a new one these days.....but the root of your problem is corrosion...like you were just visiting Utah salt flats...what you must do is make sure the battery is younger then five...break out the garden hose and spray the battery and terminals and anywhere else that corrosion may get in your eyes....save the eyes...the black 1/0 cable which comes off the battery attaches to the chassis ground...you must remove the bolt and wirebrush the chassis free of corrosion and old paint and get it down to steel, the bolt should be cleaned and the washer, there is another 1/0 battery cable that goes to the engine block from the chassis too...this is the important one, the engine is what the starter bolts to, so to complete the circus, that one needs to have it's case sufficiently grounded....now the red cable has a "little lolipop" connector that's return from your alternator..that one is probably garbaged up because is spends it's life in a cloud of acid dust...full time---wash it all with a hose (NO bakingsoda...will kill the battery)...okay clean clamper, clean lolipop...now the other end what connects to the starter solenoid...this is a simple 13mm bolt (as I rembember) you don't need to undo this one completely, just chase a wirebrush around the threaded stud....be sure to disconnect the battery before working on these big-honkin' wires`~
Operator_13 covered the main wires. If that doesn't do it check the ignition circuit. Quickest is a 12 volt light tester, connect to the crank terminal on the starter and crank on the key. If you don't get power check the ign fuse (sould be a maxi on that truck). If you do and the main power cable from above is good it will be your bendix on the starter. A quick check of the main cable is to "jump" the starter. Make sure the key is OFF and you are in P or neutral. Take an insulated screwdriver and short the large power cable to the crank, avoid touching the treads. If it turns over your power and starter are good but the ignition circuit needs attention.
Ok i have a stick shift if you have a stick simple tip the clutch presses a switch called an anti ignition switch near the pedal try and replace that first its like 5.99 at auto zone
I have a 1992 chevy s10 was driving fine turned off truck when i tryed to leave my truck had no dash lights also would not crank over it dead battery is good but no crank changed ignition switch, computer ,checked fuses changed two relays under hood ,,and i do have headlights.and tail no brake lights what can i check
95 5 speed just started having the same problems doesn't want to crank but lights come on. I hear a click when I turn tyw key
Did u guys every figure out the problem ??????
1997 Sonoma 2.2L Stick shift. No power to cab so no lights, radio, horn blower etc... Also no crank no click, no fuel pump noise. I recently installed a new alternator. Then put it away for 6 months. Re and re the Alt all looks good. Yes new battery with 12.76V. When I short the Positive lead of the battery to the Positive rail on the drivers side of the truck I get lights, a clean start but it's running on battery power. What am I missing? *Connecting the + to the red wire in the photo...
What the thing in the pic called??
its called a positive junction block
I have a 99 s10 in my shop....most the wires in the harness....directly from the battery was burned out....I took of the terminal and cut the harness open..carefully of course small razor....I taped the wires back up with electrical tape.......please note ...each wire was individually taped back up.....Then I taped the harness up....I get no start ..only swing....I have good compression....gas value was empty..when I pressed it...and I change the coil.....still won't start... thinking about putting on a computer...from a car expert....that specialises in Toyota....Chevy help is needed...note I drove it to the spot with the burned out wires....which is very dangerous...don't attempt....I said all this to help and still to get answers....don't b shy ..
Hello Tommy here I have a 1986 Chevrolet S10 truck 2.5 4teckengine 4cylender ok ran fine I was going down the road engine made a pop noise it cut off now will not run it will turn over Will not start up and run
I have an 91 Sonoma and dropped a 4.3 v6 in And I have no power through the entire cab or engine any help.... And what color should the starter be
My question: I have a 2001 Chevrolet s10, it was running and driving great and I went to leave for work yesterday and it wouldn't do anything! So I thought it was my ignition so I replaced it bt that wasn't the issue also I bought the truck without a key so that's my mistake! I just dont really know what to check for because all my relays click when I try to crank an I assume that's good! Bt when I turn my ignition over it doesn't do anything??
I had a similar problem where my truck was running great then I went to start it and it would crank like hell but no start. So I check everything out all looked good except I was getting no spark from the ignition coil. Did some research and found out there is something called the (ICM) ignition control module located right next to the ignition coil. It’s what tells the coil to spark when you start cranking. So I replaced the ICM and BOOM fired right up.
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