Power Windows not working
I have a 2006 Honda Accord and the passenger and back power windows quit working all at once. The
drivers window works fine and the child safety lock is not engaged. Any ideas what would cause this to
My best guess is the motors are malfunctioning or there is a wiring or switch issue. Check the switchs, check the wires and if all else fails replace the motors
its doubtful that all three motors would fail at the same time, or the switches also would fail all at the same time. but it is very possible that there is a wiring issue to deal with. you may also check the child safty lock again to make sure that that switch is ok for sure.
i have an 07 accord with the same issue..its the main switch...on the drivers side that is bad...its like $150 for a new switch...i have yet to replace mine
Jonathan, I have the same issue with my 07 accord. The driver side window works but all other windows are not working. What could be the issue? I know you said it's the switch. Where do I find this switch?
its the switch on the door that needs to be replaced. its $150 at autozone for a replacement. ive gone to junk yards in hopes of finding an 07 accord but have not had luck
Thanks Jonathan for your response. Could you point me to the exact switch that I need to replace? Is it located on the driver door or passenger? I would appreciate the exact name for the switch if there is any. Thank you.
it is the switch on the driver side door.. the price might not be the same in your area http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Power-Window-Switch/2007-Honda-Accord-EX/_/N-jpn2hZ9cilb?itemIdentifier=909878_0_0_8034%2C78655
My "07 did the same thing, never bothered to fix it!
With my 07 accord I am having the same issue, the only working window is the drivers and no other window works. When I try and lower the window for the back I can hear it trying to go down by the electric swtich going but it doesnt go down... Any advise? I dont want to buy 3 new motors and wondering what I should do.
I have a 2007 Honda Accord the driverside window works but other 3 windows dont, but when u hit the master switch on drivers door to try to roll other 3 windows down you can hear the switch click at the switch on the door ur trying to roll the window down at.
I had the same problem with my 2007 Accord and foud that the problem is the child protection switch in the master window control unit was not resetting. Since this is not readily repairable, I ordered a used replacement from a reputable supplier ($90 new is $250) and changed it out. The fix worked perfectly except that I had to reprogram the keyless entry.
Dosteen: what is the name of the reputable supplier you're referring to?
i went to the dealer in my area, i live in southern NH and it was $180 for a new switch. as dosteen mentioned i also had to reprogram my key less entry
dosteen how did u reprogram ur keyless entry?
My key less entry doesn't work either after I replaced the master Window control unit
I put a jumper cable from the white/green wire ti the 1st large black wire and all my windows work again. I used an old cell phone charging wire
Daniel, could you be a little more specific? Where are the two wires?
I have the same problem everyone else is having. only drivers side works bought a new master switch from honda dealer online 128.00. installed and programmed keyless entry. still no windows work except drivers. will post again when real problem is found.
It's the Master switch. $85.00 on Ebay or Amazon also if you Google Master Switch for ...Honda accord there is a Parts website that has used switches from Hondas and they vary in price from $25.00 -$60.00 based on vehicle mileage.
I also fixed the switch like Daniel did. Pin 1 (black) to pin 3 (white/green stripe) but I used a 15 amp fuse. and jammed it in. it was a tight fit and had to tweak the fuse a little but all the windows now work
THANKS TO WHOM TOLD ABOUT THE WIRES JUMPER, FIXED THE ISSUE, I USED A FUSE IN THE JUMP AS WELL JUST IN CASE, BUT ITS A 50 AMP, ONLY ONE I HAD LYING AROUND AND PRESTO, IT WORKS, I ALSO NOTICED IN THE HARNESS THERE WAS AN EXPOSED WIRE THAT WAS TWISTED POSSIBLY IN MANUFACTURING, LOOKED LIKE A JUMPER WIRE AS WELL, HONDA NEEDS TO STEP UP TO THESE FAILURES, FAULTY WIRING, MY ONLY COMPLAINT THUS FAR ON MY ACCORD HYBRID V6 2007!!! THANKS AGAIN!!!
I have a 2006 Accord with same issue. For my understanding, do I use 2 jumper wires? one from pin 1 to the end of a fuse, and another jumper wire from the fuse to pin 3 in series?
Yes, thats how I did it, soldering it would work better, and then electrical tape, its a tight fit under control housing so use a smaller 15 amp fuse
Thanks! Im thinking of using a fused jumper wire from autozone for $3.99, I hope I can easily emove the master switch and work on it on my bench
Does the main switch come out easily or do I need to remove parts of the door ?
I just checked, there is no space!!! How the heck did you guys put a jumper cable in there??? What happens with the all the pins that go into the connector when you have the jumper cable in?
I had power window issues with my 03 accord. First the passenger the driver side stopped working. I troubleshot To what I beleived was window regulator motor malfunction. dealer wanted 1150 to repair both windows. I order parts for both from 1aauto.com (for 140 total.) With 3 hrs, YouTube and a friend I repaired both windows. It wasn't extermely difficult.
Do you have a picture of the wire jump you placed?
I had the same problem so I took Daniel's advice and now they work just fine! Thanks Daniel
I also have the non working front passenger & rear window
I also have the non working front passenger & rear windows. I contacted the NHTSA re this problem & filed a complaint in hopes this would result in a recall. Too many Honda owners have this same issue with their vehicles. Honda should provide the fix at no charge. Especially since the issue does result from a worn out part. This issue could also involve a glitch in the car's computer & electrical system. My problem started after using my key remote to lower my windows. As owners of these good cars we shouldn't have to jump thru hoops to get this resolved. Everyone having this issue should file a complaint with NHTSA.
I ordered a switch for 65 bucks from switchdoctor.net. im going to install it today and it also cames with directions on how to reprogram auto up/down feature and keyless entry and other functions.
New switch fixed the problem. MAKE SURE YOU REPROGRAM YOUR KEY BEFORE DRIVING CAR!!! I didn't and my alarm was going off non stop
I found that that after putting a new switch in (eventually) I have to be really close to my car for the fob to work. I put a new battery in and still like 2 ft max any thoughts? Wrong battery perhaps. Auto zone isn't the best
DOUBLE CHECK THE CHILD LOCK It may save you from looking like an ass in front of your wife and a couple of mechanics.
This works. Thanks to those above who suggested it. It didn't disable the child safety lock either. I haven't found ANY negative consequences from having done this!
YES. I took it to the Honda place and they wanted 500 dollars to replace the master switch. Using this pic and the above comments as a guide, I hooked up the green and black wires and now all 4 windows work! (All but driver's side weren't working.) I also just cut up an old charger to get a wire. No soldering here - twisting did the trick. THANK YOU!
Just for everyone who is using the jump wire fix.... this causes the switch to constantly draw a trickle of power from the battery even when not in use. So if you leave your car for a few days it will kill your battery. I went on vacay for a week and came back to a dead battery. Just an FYI. And to the guy who used an unshielded paper clip.... you're lucky you didn't have a car fire. Be safe
What is the exact switch you are doing the fix to? I assume it's in the driver side door?
No, Thom. The driver's door was the only one that worked at all. The wireover job made them all work again. And as far as draining the battery, it doesn't and I have found no negative consequences from having done it.
What switch did u wire over is what I am asking. Where is it?
Just like in the pic posted by Cobbler above, I did it and poof... like magic everything works. Don't know if it drains battery yet since I just fixed it today. Everyone should just fix this without replacing the master switch because you would have to re-prog some of the features. The thing NOT to do is to dismantle the master control switch. You can connect the jumper cable without touching/dismantling anything else. Also, to be on the safe side, I wrap all the exposed wires with plastic tape (any 99c cheap tape seem to do the trick). Shame on Honda for not fixing this despite substantial complaints.
did as the pic said and wallah... it works!
Thanks Cobbler for posting the picture it sure did help a lot.
Can anyone tell me where the switch is located? In the door? Under the hood? Dash??
#Thom: It's the main 4-way switch in the driver's door. #Regal Fineboy: You're welcome. Glad to help!
I have a 91 Honda Accord EX that I had for quite awhile N my driver side door works N my passenger side did but the back doors haven't worked, I have straight wired all three passenger windows N they work but will not work with button on each door or with driver door button have switches buttons on the three N still don't work. Can anyone give me a hint to wat has happened and also cud I try the jumper idea spoke of on this yr of car? Thanks! Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Do what cobbler pic says two black wires to the green and yellow wire it works, untill u have enough to get a main switch i tried it works thanks for the pic cobbler quick and easy.
Thank you cobbler for the picture and Daniel for the the wire over solution! As a smoker solving this problem was critical.... I own a 2007 Honda Accord. With any electrical work you should first disconnect the battery to avoid a short and blowing a fuse. I used a lighter to strip a small section of each of the wires described in cobblers picture, then cannibalized an old charger for the for the splice wire, I twisted and tightly braided the wires then wrapped them with a hardy bit of electrical tape. Be sure to insulate the wire splice with something(electrical tape wire nut rubber strip of duct tape). I believe the battery drainage issue stems from the splice becoming grounded or touching the relay itself. I have not had the battery drainage issue but if I do I will post with the problem and solution. Attached is a YouTube video for accessing the drivers side window control module. I also attached cobblers picture. https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2015/09/2 1/21/43/pic-1879759851817501619- 1600x1200.jpeg http://youtu.be/bEzq4HrRYuI
THANK YOU COBBLER!!!!!!!!! OMG.....OMG.... THE BLACK TO THE 3RD WORKED ....IM SO HAPPY. THANK YOU!!!!
2007 honda accord window switch has any one had any problems when connecting the wire together like cobbler said? Any bad notes?
8 months later and still no detectable problems, still works perfectly.
Guys, Same problem with my 2006 Accord. I lowered all four windows using the key remote, and only the driver's window would operate thereafter. The other three would not work from the driver's door or from their separate door switches. Turned out I had inadvertently hit the window lockout switch; when I reset it, all worked normally. I've never owned a car where the window lockout switch disabled any windows from the driver's door, much less three out of four, but that's how the Honda is wired. Before you attempt any of the jump wire fixes suggested or buy a new master switch, check the lockout button. Closely.
How do you unlock the lock out switch?
Hey everyone I have the same problem in my 05 Accord coupe. I bought a new master switch and I was so happy that I came 3 days earlier than expected. Replaced it but the passenger window still doesn't work with the new switch. You can hear the clicking at passenger window switch. I'm so. Upset I was for sure the switch would fix the problem. I'm guess my next step would be to replace the MOTOR? HELP!
Thanks, Daniel!!! This also works for Honda Odyssey. Looks like they have the same switch.
Hi guys I was having the same problem with my 07 Accord's windows so I took it to a garage and the guy connected two wires on the switch and the windows started working. I don't know which wires he connected but he did tell me that the switch is faulty. The windows work perfectly but there a few thing that I noticed and wanted to know if others have also seen these: 1. when I open the driver's door it does not show on the display that the door is open. the display shows for all the other doors and the trunk so I guess the display is ok. also after unlocking my car if I open the driver's door the car still locks after sometime but that doesn't happen if I open any other door. it is as if the car does not recognize the driver door or it being open. 2. When I use the window lock button the windows don't roll down from the driver's door buttons but they still roll down from the other door switches. It is as if the lock button only works for the driver's door buttons. Has anybody else noticed these things after they jumped the wires? If it is only me then how can I solve these problems? also sorry for the long post.
Yes - Saifmaniar mine did this too "2. When I use the window lock button the windows don't roll down from the driver's door buttons but they still roll down from the other door switches. It is as if the lock button only works for the driver's door buttons." I haven't noticed my driver door light being faulty though.
the cobbler works thanks i went to auto zone & got a pack of 18-14 gauge quick splices for 2'99 put 1 wire in each slot pressed down & clamped it done no cutting no burning of wires it was so easy
RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW 1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Move the driver's window all the way down by using the driver's window DOWN switch. 3. Open the driver's door. NOTE: steps 4 - 7 must be done within 5 seconds of each other. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Push and hold the driver's window DOWN switch. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 7. Release the driver's window DOWN switch. 8. Repeat steps 4 - 7 three more times. 9. Wait 1 second. 10. Confirm that AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN do not work. If AUTO UP and DOWN work, go back to step 1. 11. Move the driver's window all the way down by holding the driver's window DOWN switch to the AUTO DOWN position. 12. Pull up and hold the driver's window UP switch to the AUTO UP position until the window reaches the fully closed position, then continue to hold the switch for 1 second. 13. Confirm that the power window master switch is reset by using the driver's window AUTO UP and DOWN function. If the window still does not work in AUTO, repeat the procedure several times, paying close attention to the 5 second time limit between steps. If it still does not work, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A.
My 03 coupe does not have that wiring configuration. #1 terminal is black but #2 is light green. I do not understand this problem as ALL diagrams show 2 black wires occupying the first 2 terminals on the master switch.
image of my connector, the jumping of these wires does not work..
@Doe, it does look slightly different but mostly the same to me. You connected #1 and #3 didn't you?
I can't seem to find the pic. The link is not opening.
Reply someone... all my Windows not working and I need to try the jumper thing.
Cobbler... Yes I jumped them... the 2003 /coupe is different as the ground comes from the master switch and not body ground. I have accomplished getting the passenger door operational by jumping the 12v hot lead from the yellow/red wire adjacent to the green /black in the passenger door switch. This gives me passenger window control ONLY through the passenger door switch. Apparently I have an open circuit between the master switch and the passenger / rear power window relay. The grounding of that circuit operates the master switches control of the rest of the windows by closing the circuit of that relay.
BTW, FYI, the left door window does not use that power window relay for it's operation. Only the passenger and in case of 4 door the rear windows. Also the child safety lock out cuts the ground to that relay to prevent operation by kids. If your lock out is defective this will cause the windows not to function. If you listen carefully when engaging the child lock out and disengaging you should hear the relay clicking under the left of dash above the fuse box. The relay is hidden above the fuse block. You have to remove the entire kick panel to get to the relay.
Doe, is that yo reset the passenger windows and back window the steps you added , or just to reset the driver window. I jumped all the window like the other comment said worked fine but want to just have it normal .
MATA: The reset is for the 'auto' up and down for the 'drivers window' and for the remote to control the windows. when replacing the master switch if doing so killed those features. If you jumped the connectors(cobblers way) you have just improved the grounding circuit of the power windows. It is still 'normal" per say, just improved the original design. If you did what I did and have control only from the individual door switches, then you could have an open / shorted wire between the child lock button or a bad kid lock switch on the driver master switch. Hope this helps.
ussi, we cant' help you fix a setting in your browser, as we don't know what one you are using and this isn't an IT thread. If you are not seeing the images there is something up with your browser.
I tried the Cobbler method on a 2006 Accord, and it fixed the back windows but the passenger side is still not working. The passenger side clicked, eventually went down, and it took forever to get it to go back up. It is currently not cooperating at all. Is there another way to get the front passenger window operational again?
Can anyone repost the picture? I don't see it. Thanks
Doe, thanks for the additional info. So i was able to use the jumper cable to fix the issue. The thing I find weird is that I had access to another driver panel from another 07 accord - when i replaced it with the original from my car all windows worked! Its as if the issue is in the driver control panel But if I understand correctly, the relay that you mention is defective is the one you mention that is hidden near the fusebox. To properly fix this issue would pulling the relay and checking for the issue there be the proper solution? How difficult would this be?
simsin, If you have replaced/exchanged the drivers door window control switch and everything worked, then the problem is probably in the other . There have been numerous problems with window switch control units internal grounding from the PCB inside that driver control unit. The relay has to be functioning as it controls the other 3 doors ( 4 door) (passenger door if a coup). If the other doors are working then the relay is working, However, That relay is not used to control the driver door window (no relay involved) . Getting to it is only problematic because the trim panel surrounding the fuse box has to be removed to get to it. Other than that, it just plugs in like a fuse would. It appears you do not have to do this.
The "cobbler" method works thanks...i only connected the 1st black wire to the 3rd green/yellow wire and everything works perfect.. but i notice you also connected the 2nd black wire...? Should i be concerned?
i recently got a new switch, and everything works except the driver window does'nt go down or up, and i tried jumping the wht/grn wire to the blk ground wire to see if it worked and it did'nt make mine work unfortunately, but at least i tried. my car is an 03 accord coupe LX, and originally the buttons were broken on my original switch, so i had to buy a new switch from honda, so my switch is new and good, and i was able to open and close the driver window with the old switch, by removing the window open/close buttons, and stick a thin metal stick inside the hole where the buttons were, and use it to slide the little white plastic slider inside the slots in the circuit board to open or close the window, but later on i noticed that the drivers window would'nt open or close anymore using that method, and i was wondering if its possible i could of shorted something in the system out while doing that ?, using that metal stick to put in and move the sliders ?, cause some of the time i would just stick it in there as i was driving without looking inside to line it up, and i would just be guessing by feel, as to where it was and stuff, and that was'nt a good idea. the fuses are good and relay good too. i tried testing the window motor on drivers side, going by the steps in the helms manual, and i think i did it right ?, i hooked test leads with clips to the pos & neg clamps on my portable jumpbox and put small nails in the clips at the other ends of the test leads and stuck them in pin 1 and pin 4 of the 6P connector which i unplugged from the motor, and put pos and neg according to the chart and pressed the window button and it did'nt do anything? but seems like if motor was bad, i would of had some signs or symptoms leading up to it failing ?, such as seeing the window get slower while going down ?, or that kind of thing ?, and it was'nt, and was previously working perfectly, and only problem was the broken plastic buttons on the switch ?, its just frustrating and i've become obsessed with trying to find out the cause of this !, it gets stuck in my head and is real hard for me to just drop it, even know i am not real experienced with electrical troubleshooting, but i do what i can to test things, going by manuals or the internet to go by. i have a feeling it might be something in the wiring maybe ?, cause after testing the different color wires in the harness going to the switch, with a test light, some of them did'nt show any voltage when it said they supposed to show it ?, the test light lit up while probing at the red/blk wire as i pressed the window down button, and the grn/wht wire and the yellow wire both lit up and showed voltage while key was to the "ON" position. i don't think any of the others showed any voltage ? any help or opinions on what i can check or what could cause this, i would really appreciate it.
blkcoupe808: Did you check both locations of fuses? One under the kick panel on the drivers side under dash AND under hood in the engine compartment fuse box? By sticking that metal strip in the switch, you could have easily shorted the circuit and blew a fuse.
t48135 : THANK YOU for the solution and the laugh! All I had to do was turn the safety switch off. I don't ever use it and never thought of it. I was reading in the car and must have turned it on when my arm was on the armrest.
Doe, thanks for trying to help guide me in fixing my problem, but my mechanic friend looked at it a few days ago and found out the motor was burned out, from me not sliding the little slider inside the slot on the circuit board, where it was lined up to the center mark every time after i used it, so he said it was as if i held the window up button and just held it there constantly, even know the window was up and there was'nt any more room for it to go up with, and therefore burned up the motor. he removed the window motor and regulator, and took apart the motor and sanded the brushes inside down a certain degree and put it back together and put it in and the motor worked again!, and he did it for free, so i was happy, but who knows how long the motor will last after sanding the brushes down ?, but i guess i will see.
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