what could it be
Alright so my broncoII ran fine the whole time i had the truck about 5yrs.been working out of town so it did
sit.cranked it up ran just like always.parked it went to crank it back up about a week later and nothing.thought the
fuel pump went out bought a new one. Then a new starter cylinoid then an ignition module.so when i was
replaceing the ignition module i thought i might have thrown the timeing a lil.so i took the number1 plug out
turned the motor to what i thought was the top of the compression turn my knob on the inside of the distributor
was on the number one i dont know pkease help.
starter is turning correct? possible distributor cap and rotor
Yes starter is turning over it was corroded a little scraped off corrosion seem to be getting spark on plugs took off distributor cap trying to get the timeing correct.and the rotor is whats turning on the inside of the distributor right? It turns when cranked
do the plugs smell like gas or look saturated?
The old ones did i replaced them with new one
did you also replace the cap, rotor, and wires?
and yes, rotor is the things spinning in the distributor
I didnt replace the cap or rotor but i did replace the wires.when i first took the distributor cap off it was a little corroded i scraped off the corrosion on the inside of the the cap replaced it and checked for fire i was able to see a spark
But yes the plugs look a little saturated
i would go ahead and replace the cap and rotor, Even if there is spark it may not be enough. It's not that expensive, the cap can develop carbon traces that steals current. Also the gap between cap points and rotor can be too much to allow proper spark.
Thanks for your time my buddy i appreciate it about to go buy the cap and rotor and try it out. Keep an eye on me
How about i done screwed up big time my dumb ass done broke a piece of plastic artbrush done fell up in the number 1 spark plug man what am i gonna do i sure cant run it with that piece in there all i can hope for is that it breaks up and melts..but upon lineing up my timeing its real hard to get it to turn all the way i sure hope that plastic art brush aint gonna srcew me try toget back quick cause im out there doing it. Went and bought the parts trying to get it on t/c
Im about an1/8 away from t/c and i cant quite get it there without passing it please dont tell me that piece is probley jamming it from quite getting there.do i take my valve cover off and retrive the piece or does the motor get hard to turn when your on t/c
well if your compression is good TDC is a little hard to get to, but you should be able to do it. It will take a while of running to get that peice of plastic out of the motor but if it is 100% plastic it should be ok.get a good base timing set at go from there. Are you takeing the distributor out completly to do this or are you just rotateing it to get timing? You shouldnt have to take it out completely. Also TDC 1 can be on compression stroke or exhaust. If it spits fire when you set it then you are 180 degrees out. Fine tuneing should be done with a timing gun or a trained ear at least while it's running.
I did take it all the way figureing my timeing was out.right now im trying to get tdc on my harmonic balancer an 1/8 away cant quite get it there .trying to get top dead center on comperssion stroke
if your close the thing should start up, i've had a car running 15 degrees off before
Still trying to get it top dead center i have to be there but its not on the line everytime i pull hard as i can it bypasses the line
even going backwards is hard? I've never had an issue like that. Maybe u need more leverage.
Alright finally got it lets just hope im on the right stroke putting my distributor back in the motor trying to line it up any suggestions
Put in the distributor dang it boy it sure is hard trying to line all that up i need tips
do you have access to a timing light? It would make your life alot easier and could rule out a timing issue. Also is the distributor seated all the way? On the end of the dist. is a flat piece that can only allow it to go in one way or another, if it's not in then it may sit down and spin but not be in all the way. I apologize, it's had to diagnose this in depth over the internet, lol.
I know buddy i just thank u for your patience and your help which has been very helpful. Alright so i got it tdc on the harmonic balancer tried to work the distibutor back in the motor thought i had it in right got it in the groove where it fell all the way in and spun the distributor till it aligned with the number 1 tightened it down put the cap and wires on turns over wants to sputter a little no i dont have a timeing light probley gonna have to find someone with one. Since its not starting i take it i have to star the process over again huh?
no, sputtering may be a good sign. Rotate it a little each direction and try to start it. Leave the dist. in just loosen it and rotate it. If that doesnt work then you need a timing light. If you have it alighned like you said then you are either close or 180 degrees off. Double check firing order for the hell of it too. It happens
Ill be back at it tommorrow will try that first cant see how im 180 bc i lined my t/c up perfectly with the bracket mounted to the motor unless the compression stroke and fireing stroke both line up on that mark. But i shouldnt be out bc i turned it to the top of the stroke when the air was coming out
the compression stroke and end of the exhaust stroke end on that mark.
Ok then i should hear the air coming out the spark plug at the top of that stroke is the right one right?
yes, but you may hear it on both but the right one will have more.
Like u said air does come out on both strokes i chose the one with that had the most pressure "which when aligned fell exactly on the same stroke i chose yesterday" went and dropped off my battery to be charged .it shouldnt matter when i put the distributor in the motor as long as i spin it to the number1fireing position correct?
Or does that go i a specific place "talking about the gear on the bottom of the distributor
the distributor wont go all the way in if it's off the oil pump drive key. The key only lets it fall it completly 2 different ways. The correct way or 180 out. if the rotor is in the #1 position while TDC is achieved then that should be it.
So frustrated its just turning over gonna start the whole thing over when it cools down i wish i could teleport ya here to help running in circle
lol, wouldn't happen to live near Atlanta, Georgia would you?
Nah i said screw it and im about to drop it off with my mechanic he has one of them timeing lights and more knowledge wish i didnt have too but tired of tinkering hope he dont charge an arm and a leg ...keep an eye on this ill let u know what was up with it when he gets done.
I appreciate all ur help mr. Andrew .thank you for takeing the time out to help .
Alright sitting here with my mechanic and my fuel injectors are not getting power sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and it ran what do i do next they said it might be a relay or the computer damnit more money fuel pressure is great
Alright sitting here with my mechanic and my fuel injectors are not getting power sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and it ran what do i do next they said it might be a relay or the computer damnit more money fuel pressure is great to the injectors what do you think
Throttle body injection? I would double check all the fuses, then the relay.
Its Fuel injection with a throttle body.so you dont think its the computer i checked the fuses all appear to be good
Thats where im at either the relay or the computer
Computer is a large step but a possibility. Test the relay. Ir if its cheap then just get it. Another possibility is the cam position sensor (or crank position sensor). The ecu uses that for injector pulses.
Can u test the relay i asked my mechanic that and he wasnt sure.
I called auto zone to get a price check on the crank positioning sensor and i was told that it didnt have one
You can test them but it depends on whay kind it is. How many contacts it has.
Alright so another long day messin with that dang truck .i went to the junk yard pulled another computer i hooked it up to a diagnostic machine on both computers its saying the sameon both the map sensor is out of range.that wouldnt keep it from cranking huh?keep in mind when i spray stater fluid in the throttle body it cranks?stummped
if it says MAP sensor then it must be the MAP sensor. I'm not sure how heavily your car's system relies on it but i have stalled cars be unplugging the map sensor.
Heck to the yeah went to the junkyard pulled a map sensor for five dollars installed it and wallah crunk right up .man i dont know what i would have done without ya !!! Thanks again my buddy 400 dollars later and it was a 5 dollar part how about that
Glad to hear it. Enjoy ur ride
10-4 enjoy the holiday
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