engaging 4wd


Asked by Nov 28, 2013 at 05:35 AM about the 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty

Question type: General

Got an 06 f250 6.0 diesel, just want to know the proper 4x4
engagement procedures. Whether I have to stop put it in
nuetral or have to sliw down a certain speed and can do it
while driving. I been lookin around for a while cant find a
thing about it. Dont wanna screw my shit up

12 Answers

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1035631-not-sure-how-to-engage-4wd-on- 01-f250.html

21 out of 21 people think this is helpful.

Thanks. But it just keeps telling me page requested not found. I know how to engage it. I'm just kinda sketchy on trusting the on the fly engaging. I don't trust it. Just a thing I have. I've owned lots of beaters and this is the first diesel I've owned and the best vehicle I've had, though I've only owned it two days and don't know the vehicle and all it's sounds and quirks yet. And I just don't wanna wreck anything. I still stop and put it in neutral when shifting the transfer case even though I've been told I can do it while moving. Guess just ownin old crappy stuff that's left me walkin or layin under it redneckin it together to make it home or straight to the wreckers 13 years out of the 29 I been around made me overly cautious. I don't trust the electronic shifting either, if I do it manually I feel more at ease. Plus I don't know it's fully locked and don't want anything to kick out and pile up cause I relied on a button controlling a little motor that could easily jam and not complete the job it was designed for when I can grab a stick and feel it go into place myself. And the 4x4 light comes on instantly when you hit the switch so if it did jam up you won't know till you get movin or until it's too late. They should make them so they flash until it's fully in place.

11 out of 11 people think this is helpful.

have never owned one of these, but I see manual hubs on each wheel...had no Idea that these could be activated automatically...new to me~ sorry that link wasn't okay....it's a crapshoot with some of these links apologize for not verifying this....tho you know these "forums" are usually rants about stuff that don't work....so probably wouldn't have been of much use anyways....when in doubt, take it slow and MANUALLY engage the driveshafts....would be my cautious advice to you~

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.

I tried the link Judge Roy posted and it came up.. dwh270 are you typing it in? Just highlight and right click on the link. No offense intended, you are probably more computer savvy than I am, but it's real easy to make the slightest typo.

5 out of 5 people think this is helpful.

DAVIDH No I copied and pasted the link. I'm doin it off an iphone. That's all I have right now and I hate the damn thing. Just figured out how to send a text on it thinkin I been sendin them for a week now. And JUDGE yeah on the hubs it's got an auto position and a lock position. I've only ever seen lock and unlock on hubs before. And how would I manually engage the shafts. All I have in this thing is a turn knob on the dash that shows the positions 2wd, 4x4 high and 4x4 low. I don't have a floor shifter at all.

10 out of 10 people think this is helpful.

I'm at my mechanics right now for my freightliner and asked him a bit about it, he says the auto position is kinda like an awd system or traction control setup where if it feels that it needs the power to one wheel or the other or both it kicks in and locks whatever one is needed automatically. He said it's best to drive with it in the lock position in the winter cause in the auto position it could kick in whenever it feels the need and could cause expensive damage even when my 4wd selector switch is in the 2wd position in cases such as towing or making a big climb uphill. And said with it in auto it constantly locking and unlocking and causing wear. If I keep it in the lock position it doesnt kick in and out all the time meaning less wear and it's always on hand when I need it I can just hit the switch while driving if I slow to 60 or 70 km an hour. But I'm still gonna stop and put it in neutral. If I'm suddenly in need of 4x4 at 110 km per hour and have to slow down to 70 to kick it in I'm guessing I should probably not be driving that fast through the area I'm at in the first place.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Hi dhw....just a story about my 1978 Ford F250 4X4 that I have had for 35 years, bought new. It has Dana manually locking front hubs and a Dana NP 205 Divorced Transfer case that when not so old, I had a lot of trouble with transfer cases doing out, I abused that truck though, I cringe when I think about how I treated it. You must stop, get out, turn knob on hubs, drive forward, back up, then shift in to 4 WD with an good old fashion shifter stick. I had only 35,000 miles when the first one went out. Then 80,000. For my third transfer case I began to use 50W Motor oil instead of 90W gear oil and this one, albeit less abused, has lasted since 1994..the last 20 years with unknown mileage. The mechanical speed/odometer cable broke at 15,220 miles showing, meaning 115,220 miles and I to this day have not fixed it. But I guess Ford and all the makers are/were trying to improve on all the hassle of what I have to do to get in to 4 WD. But I would not trade it for anything. I LIKE IT that way. It has 6 U-joints, divorced is the 19" driveshaft (married is transfer case bolted to transmission) from tranny (4 speed manual) then 2 each to front axle driveshaft then to rear end. Those don't seem to last. I carry a couple with me. I have gotten so good at changing U-joints all I need is a 1/2" end wrench and 15 minutes. Or less. I sure wish I had better (or ANY) advice for your 2006 but have not kept up on the new ones. Anything from 1995 or later is 'new'..to me. Best of luck man.

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

Thanks I like the older stuff too but wanted to try somethin new out. It don't feel as sturdy and tough to me as the older stuff I've had. I am definatly going to be buying a Hanes book and learning more about these electronic units and find out if there is a way to manually engage it if the electronics ever fail on me. Just a pet peeve of mine not knowing a vehicle inside and out. This is the newest vehicle I've owned and i been crawling under over and into vehicles since I was young. If there is a way to kick it in myself I'll figure it out. I'm tearing it down next week and redoin the heads and putting a delete kit in it, along with a 6" lift and some 04 Harley rims and Micky thompsons. And I'm thinkin of gettin a 5" exhaust system or else a 4" stack exhaust system too. While I'm doin that and have the cab off the frame I'll be lookin through my whole 4x4 system. Just lookin, not tinkering..., until I know everything about it through trial and error and what I read in the manual.

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

The rims I got off an 04 f 350 Harley edition. The gut who does the inspections on my freightliner and kenworth had one he just recovered from a theft and the only thing in tact on the truck was those rims and tires. Gave him 1000 cash and threw em in my box and went home and polished them up.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

You know what dhw...that's because they're NOT as sturdy and tough as the 60's..70's Fords. It not just a feeling you have my friend, it's a fact that you have detected. My '78 351W came with a 2bbl carb, and as soon as the warranty ran out (at the time only 1 year 12,000 miles) I tore it apart and put an Edelbrock intake and a 600cfm Holley 4bbl and got a bit more power. Living in California I have to go to the CHP 'referee' to get it to pass smog, what I did was legal at the time and they can't make me put it back to stock. Today it would be 'tampering' but there is a 'grandfather' law that allows me to keep it the way it is. 16.5 rims 8 lug...they don't use those anymore.

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

While being gentle with it is never a bad thing, all answers here are incorrect. You have electronically controlled vacuum actuated hubs. The rotary knobs on the front wheels should be left in the AUTO position. They will remain unlocked until you switch the dash dial to 4x4. There is NO all-wheel-drive system. They will not engage on their own (well, they are not designed to), and they DO NOT sense conditions. When you turn the dash switch, engine vacuum (or the vacuum pump on a diesel) will engage the hubs and you will have 4x4. They can be engaged up to 60mph and you actually need to be moving (at any speed) in a straight line for them to fully engage. That said, if you need to be in 4x4, you have no reason to go 60mph... They can be disengaged in the same speed range. You may hear a clunk as it disengages. While it is not necessarily a good noise to hear, it is normal. This clunk is usually caused by driveline bind which is from using 4x4 on surfaces that are too solid. Without getting into detail, 4WD can only be used on slippery surfaces (and is different from AWD in this respect) where tires can slip independently of each other. 4WD can only be used on surfaces such as loose gravel, sand, and snow. Not pavement (even wet) nor hard packed dirt. Avoid sharp turns when engaged as well. You should engage 4WD and drive for at least 1 mile every month to keep everything lubricated. I engage and disengage it in neutral every week to keep the solenoids free. Also, turn the manual hub lock every week to keep it free. The purpose of the manual hub lock is in case the automatic system fails. Just turn the hubs to LOCK and you are in 4WD, regardless of switch position. Make sure to disengage them again when no longer needed.

46 out of 46 people think this is helpful.

AsdDs/ does this info include the 2004 f250 super duty diesel power stroke 6.0'

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