I have a 2006 Ford F-150 I have change the whole sending unit and checked all my fuses and still can't get my gas hand to work.. Can someone give me and idea on how to get it fixed?
Within the gas tank there is a float. It rises and lowers according to the level of fuel in the tank. The float is connected to a resistor which varies voltage as the float rises or lowers. The resister alters the current sent to the gauge which, in turn. moves the needle from lower to higher. Have you checked the float in the tank. If it doesn't float it will always be on "E" . It could be stuck. If you have a schematic you can look at the different voltages sent to the gauge at various levels. Dropping the tank can be a pain, but you can manually operate the float and using a meter see if a varying voltage is being sent to the gauge.
Hi OJ, I have changed all that as well. It's all new. I'm thinking it has something to do with the wiring harness under the drivers side door on the frame. I know it works some of the electrical components. But I'm not completely sure if that's my problem or not. I didn't really wanna spend the 500 dollars if it's something I could track down and fix or purchase online myself. Any help is appreciated.
Get to the fuel gauge on the dash and disconnect the wires running to it. Connect a volt meter to the wires on the connection. Turn the key to the on position . You should get a voltage reading. If you do not get any reading there is a problem with the wiring between the gauge and the tank. If the truck runs, then obviously voltage is being supplied to the pump in the tank. However, is varying voltage being sent from the resistor toward the tank is the question. Have you checked the gauge itself for proper operation?
Correction. You are not checking voltage with the meter, but ohms. Normally zero ohms will indicate an empty tank. On GM vehicles 30 ohms indicate a full tank. Does your needle always read full or empty. Could also be a grounding problem. Normally both the sending unit and the gauge have to be properly grounded.
You could also have a problem with the gauge if it always reads empty and there is an anti slosh module attached to the back of the instrument cluster. There is a way to bypass the module if so equipped. The net should give you directions on how to bypass the module. If, when you bypass the module, the gauge then works you can replace the module while the cluster is out. Oh, and I called a friend who is a mechanic. He indicated the fuel gauge is part of the cluster. If the gauge itself is at fault, the entire cluster must be replaced.
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