Battery

Asked by Aug 14, 2019 at 04:12 PM about the 2005 Nissan Armada

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

I have a 2005 nissan armada and my connector
was lose so on occasion i would have to adjust it
to get it to start but now its like my battery is
completely dead and i have to jump it to start.. I
took it and had it tested the alternator is fine and
they fixed the connector amd they told me to drive
it to get some charge to the battery which I did and
the battery is not charging and When i turn it over it
just clicks.. Would this just be a simple battery
replacement?

3 Answers

228,085

You may need a new battery. How old is it?

220

If they told you to drive it to charge it that was the wrong thing to do. An alternator is designed with an internal voltage regulator inside that regulates the amperage it puts out to between 13 and 14.5 amp with a good charged battery. If the battery is week in charge the alternator will try and compensate to charge the batter and keep the car running thus the amperage needed exceeds the 13 to 14.5 amps and can burn up the internal voltage regulator compensating above the amperage. Jumping a car with a dead battery is never a good idea as both the battery charged and alternator must be good to protect the alternator. You could also have a battery draw going on related to a short in a circuit .I would do a draw test to see if something is shorted out drawing down your battery. to do this without a voltage meter you would need a 12 volt test light to check for a draw from a circuit that should not be drawing power while the car is turned off. First locate the fuse box inside the car and remove any fuse that might have power to a component when the car is turned off such as the dome light fuse, cigarette lighter fuse, radio or clock. Then disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Secure the gator clip from the test light to the negative post of the battery.( you could tape it in place or use a pair of vise grips to clamp lightly to the post and clip the gator clip to the vise grips. then touch the probe end of the test light to the removed negative cable . The test light is now inline with the electrical system and no light should be present. If a light is present remove one fuse at a time. If the light remains put the fuse back and move to the next one until you find the one once removed the light goes out. You may also have to remove fuses under the hood if none inside the vehicle effect the light. Once you find the one that after removing turns off the test light check that circuit for all connections. For instance if it the brake light circuit check the brake lights, bulbs, sockets actuator at the brake peddle and wiring to see if any bulbs are corroded or sockets or frayed wires that may be touching the body of the car.

1 people found this helpful.
220

If it just clicks you could also have a bad connection at the starter Positive cable from the battery or ground cable to the frame or engine block. Check both are good clean connections. No rust dirt grease and so on and tight. I would remove them both and reconnect to a clean surface. If removing the positive from the starter solenoid first remove the positive from the battery . clean the connections with a piece of sand paper both the cable end and where it connects especially the ground connection. You do not have to remove the ground connection from the battery as this is not live currant. .

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