94 Galant turns over but won't start up?
OK, I have a 1994 Galant, and it runs(ran) fine minus an annoying belt squeak at start up. I think the belt is from the power steering, as sometimes when turning the wheel there is a resistance requiring more effort to turn it. Anyway, I can out of gas 2 days before it did the no start problem, got gas in a gas can and made it home. The next day it ran fine, only went to the gas station and put 2 gallons in it. 6 or 7 hrs later, it won't start. Turning over great but not starting up. The dist rotor was blackened on one corner tip, replaced it, still no go. After about 30 mins of trying to crank it started up like 3 times, but died as soon as I pressed the gas pedal, every time. Now it just turns without ever actually starting. Unbolted the line from the main fuel filter to the rail and a little gas spilled out. Is this normal? Also read about the fuel pump, stuck my head in the trunk while someone else turned the key to ON, and heard nothing. No belts are broken, coolant is OK, oil is very low and I put more gas in from a gas can to make sure the pump was submerged enough. Plug wires look OK, haven't checked for spark though. Battery is getting low from crank tries but even when jumped it still won't start up. What else can I do? What is most likely that could be preventing a start?
the fuel pump relay is shot...hold on while I shop for you~
pretty sure if you change this the only other suspect it "the ignition relay" if so equipped~
Really? No fried fuel pump, just the relay? Pretty sweet if so. That is the probably smartest/best place to start before going and installing a new pump. Thanks for you input Judge. If you think of anything else, post away. I'll keep everyone updated as well.
hope you can find the thing...it might be right in the relay box...could be hangin' on pigtail near the steering column (some jeeps are like that)~
well I know rockauto.com has EVERY Thing for every car and at very reasonable prices...you may shop there or Stockwiseauto.com is what the damned shopping computer says is a source~ you gotta shop on your own there....these things are cheap~!
Well I'm trying to inspect the fuel pump, but the hose keeps twisting whenever I turn the bolt. It's the thicker one of the two...is it supposed to do that? It twists to the point that it kins and I can't get the bolt to turn anymore for fear of rupturing the hose. About two years ago I replaced a pump in this same car and I don't recall it doing this to me at all...
cause the end fitting to let go of the pipe..you know they are separate pieces...hold the one with a vice-grips (no awards for beauty) and turn the other with a small adjustable...do not panic, and do not do something to it that you'll later regret~ have you got one of those "kielbasa" outside along the frame type...these can cause explosion in a roll-over crash...that's why they are ALL in the tank these days anymore~
tap it with a small ball-peen to make it let go~
Sorry, "it twists to the point that it KINKS" (the hose)
okay, replace that length of fuel hose...as I recall you will need a special set of "Fuel Hose pincers" that you will use once or twice in your career~
what were you planning to do once the geyser erupted? smoke a cigar?...nah, just joshin' ya~ apparently you'll have shallow (chopped low 5 gal buckets? nearby) to immediately funnel back into the gas can? pretty much have to have these clamps if you'd like to avoid a shower in gasoline~
did you test this fuel pump for continuity? with an ohm meter was this an open circuit or was it shorted? If you took a battery charger and put 12 volts to it would it start pumpin' again?
I finally managed to get the hose off...I just had to let it kink and keep turning with the wrench. I'm pretty dang sure it's not supposed to turn all together like it was. The wrench end turns and the rubber hose part stays put, right? Btw, the little reservoir where the bottom end of the pump rests only has 1/4 of gas in it. I've put 4 gallons in this car since this all happened, thinking the gas level may not have been enough to reach where the pump draws it up. I have no idea how to get it back on now, having to turn the whole hose instead of just the end connection...
but did you test the thing to see if electrically will come to the circus with us?
OK so I did the battery charger test and it whizzed away. I can rule pump failure out as a possibility then? Thinking about pouring more fuel directly into the tank before reassembling, then trying to crank her again. If it's still a no go, Relay replacement is next.
replace that hose now that it's been tortured~
...well there is a fuel pump relay that may not like to come along for the ride~
this was covered in our second entry....zoom up to the top...they ain't too much money...and if a pickNpull is nearby would fill a grocery bag full of relays...and walk out with them~
The end connected to the car's underside looks to be even more of a major pain to get loose. God forbid I have to tangle(literally) with that end of the pump hose too!
if it does not leak...just leave it~
should be like a rigid banjo-type fitting at the nose and a flexible connection at the rear...as I recall...if you can piece it back together without any fuel leaks....that'd be our main concern here~
A lot of mid 90's mitsubishi's fuel pumps will not prime with just the key in the on position. The engine has to be turning over for the pump to come on. Not so sure that applies to yours but something you might keep in mind. I undo fuel line at engine and have someone turn key to start position. Have rags handy. If pump is good gas will spray out.
Arrg. I got good news and bad news. I got her to start, not once but twice. The 1st time was after I got more gas and added it before reinstalling the pump. It ran for about 2 mins, with me screaming" yippeee!" and then I shut it off. The smell of something unmistakably just like burnt microwave popcorn was coming from the bottom of the intake manifold cover. I shrugged it off, went and got(not in the car, another one) some injector cleaner, 2qts of oil(it was pretty low) and some oil treatment, the STP stuff. Came back, put it all in, and started her back up. Cranked 1st try. Let it continue running while I peeped around in the engine, about 7-8 minutes or so, then it slowly shut back off! It died gradually, 3 secs or so to fully shut off. Well...so what now??? Help!!!
trying to shop for an intake air temp sensor and block sensor because you are having trouble starting cold...this will fix your difficulties...both these things, but I do not know what engine that you've got so I can shop for the correct part at rockauto.com~
I would check for fuel at the fuel rail. The fuel line that got all kinked up could have collapsed on the inside causing an obstruction. Just a thought.
yeah, dandy...used to be a heat riser, stove kit, diverter valve and thermal choke...all that stuff was replaced by an intake air temp sensor...a block sensor and the ECU decides how to enrichen the mix and speed the spark accordingly...now all this is SHOT and the thing won't start...we could at least start with good components as the eyes, ears and nose of the computer...to make the right decisions...which apparently it is not doin'~
Thanks for all your help and suggestions. I'm beyond PO'ed and nerves frazzled too...gotta drop my daughter at school in the morning, don't know how now. The thing started and ran like 8 mins and shut off. Now I'm back to where I was when all this started. When me & my ex-girl were together, she hated this car. She still constantly tell me I should get rid of it. In the back of my mind though I'm thinking, "we don't date anymore, why should I be listening to you?" Well...look at me now! Ehh. Is all that stuff really toast even after gettin it to start and running for as long as it did? (Please say no!) I suppose you're saying it's the reason it died again...correct?
no worn out sensors or defective sensors telling the computer how rich to make the mix...when cold should be rich...cold block and cold intake air...when it's a warm block and cold intake air has a different tack~etc~ I'm suggesting you get a new IAT and Block temp sensor to have a fightin' chance at makin' it run properly~
buy a sports car and take her/it for a spin....waiting for the Smart Roadster to appear here in the US...it looked pretty smart with a 600cc engine and all the luxuries that one may expect from say the MINI cooper~...just about any sports car will have the power to seduce...Rockers like Camaros and Firebirds...Muscleheads like Dodge musclecars of the early 70's...guys like me like to sneak around politely in a MINI cooper~
If you've got the budget a MUSTANG looks pretty nice...but doesn't have a "grabby-handle" so the passenger has to grab onto the base of the seat--- uuugh 3 dollars worth of plastic...crikey...every single toyota and volkswagen has them....what's wrong with American automakers do go but 90 percent of the way for an outstanding vehicle~
do you believe in synchronicity?....well then perhaps you secretly wanted the fitting to cross-thread precipitating the condition....gonna have to borrow or use the truck to take your child to school...you could ride the bus with her...borrow the neighbor's car to go car shopping with you~
@dandyoun - I checked for fuel at the rail, there was a plenty, and with pressure. I only undid one of the bolts and wiggled it slightly loose and it sprayed everywhere with force like a shaken soda with a loose top. Am I correct to assume there is ample fuel flow and pressure to circulate it? Whenever I try to crank it it's as close to starting as an engine can get without actually firing up. It's like it wants to, but at the last second just doesn't. What else can I try to do? Any other likely culprits?
if the spark is dodgy would suspect an ignition relay~ maybe this will help you~ https://www.google.com/#q=1994+Mitsubishi+Galant+ignition+relay&tbm=sh op
Sorry been out of town. Which motor do you have? 2.4 sohc or 2.4 dohc. If I was in your shoes I would do a compression check to rule out any bent valves due to a possible timing issue. Also how long since timing belt was replaced?
Still haven't got this thing to start. A friend if mine helped me look at it and did the spark plug/screwdriver test and told me there was no spark. I pulled distributor cap to inspect some things and found a crack in the black plastic on the part of the distributor that surrounds where the rotor attaches. Gonna post a photo for reference. Could this be my problem causing a no start? The plugs were nicely could too, mostly carbon and a little, but very little oil. I cleaned em really good and sanded the contacts shiny and put em back in. Anybody have any ideas about the likelihood of these things keeping me from rollin' again?
well either way a cracked distributor is gonna need replaced,, why dont you preplace that and those plugs while your at it ,,, and make sure you gap the plugs even if they say that they are pregapped, never trust pregaps
Yea, I knew that was coming. And with the plugs too. I'm also trying to check the diagnostic codes to see what they have stored, using the paper clip technique since I have no access to scan tool. I found what looks to be the port, something said to jump pins #1 and 4, but when I did I got nothing. Is this the right place?
That spot is under the dash, top left of the center console and above the gas pedal from the perspective of sitting in the driver's seat looking down at it...
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