1968 Chev. C-10 How do you replace the heater core with air conditioning?
How do you remove and or replace or repair the heater core in a 1968 Chevrolet C-10 with air conditioning?
1. Disconnect Battery 2. Disconnect Heater Hoses 3. Mark hood hinge locations with marker or chalk, then remove hood 4. Drop Passenger Inner Fender a. 7 bolts around wheel well circumference (from wheel well side) i. You will most likely break a few J-Nuts...depending on how frozen they are. (If you do...grind the head of the bolt off and buy some more) b. One big bolt on the rear inward section of the inner fender (from underneath) c. Three bolts on the upper inside and upper forward on the inner fender (connects to fender(2) and batter tray(1)) d. Three bolts on the very forward section of the inner fender e. Shake it loose and get it out of the way. 5. Remove the 4 nuts holding the heater core housing from the outside a. one nut is right below the heather hose connections b. one nut is on the driver side of the a/c housing ...essentially on the opposite side of the condenser housing toward the driver c. The last two are on the bottom of the a/c condenser housing on either side of the housing 6. Go inside the cab a. Remove the glove box door and the glovebox (makes it easier) b. Move out of the way the ventilation system (green directional air box, s-tube and the floor/defroster control box) (I took mine apart as I was replacing anything that was broke...and wanted to clean the whole thing up) - pretty easy...some obvious plugs and screws c. Disconnect that resistor plug and take it out of the housing with its grommet (I WD-40'd mine and it was very easy to slip back in) d. Remove bolts at 11 and 5 o'clock (looking forward) e. Pull the heater core housing gently away from the firewall. You do not want to break one of the bolts off that are molded into the heater core housing...that would suck and mean more work...you are also pulling the hose connections to the heater core through the firewall f. Remove the heater core bracket(two brackets) screws (two screws per bracket) and the connection clamp (for the two heather hose connections Reassemble in reverse order.
been there and it was a pain in the ass without the fender removal cause I broke an ear off the engine side blower box . ( you can fix with a fender washer and some J/B weld )other than that the WD on the resistor block is good idea ! they break easily ... GOOD JOB DUDE ..!
OMG - I DID not know that was your post 'till after I wrote mine (LOL) ... what the hell... I was there ... me and you broke that ear off the blower box ... did you do all that from memory TATES ? ... THAT WOULD BE IMPRESSIVE !!! GOOD JOB TATES !!! 'TATES IS MY BOY ... we is cut from the same cereal box top !!
LOL yes pops, did it all from memory. I mean shit, I've done three of them. (my 69 c10, took the whole box off your blue 72, and that green 70 at Bryants.) Wording it all out makes it sound harder than it really is though.
does the 5/8 line go at the top or bottom?
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