Does anyone else have problems with acceleration with a 2016 Cayenne? My car will start to go and then hesitate making it dangerous to drive. Dealer can't find anything wrong.
Take it to another dealer, should be covered under warranty. If its not fixed contact chevys home office and see if they can help...
Check or replace the mass airflow sensor. Mounted on the air intake tube, easily accessible. You might need a 5 point torx tool to remove it. Don't touch it. Clean it with CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner per instructions. Do not use anything else! If that doesn't do it, replace or switch out with a unit known to be good. Good luck
Did the dealer ever figure out your acceleration problem? Having the same issue on my 2016 base model...engine revs, but no go unless you almost floor it, then it jumps! Getting dangerous to drive.
It may sound too simple, but check the fluid level with the engine hot and idling in park. Check on a level surface and never overfill. Porsche transmissions are considered bullet proof. Don't drive it if it still continues, it's too dangerous.
Thx Stephen. Had the vehicle back for a several days fold owing a transfer case swap under warranty. Put 600 + miles on it since, then the acceleration issue statedyesterday. Called dealer this morning, says it's normal....blah blah blah.....and they tell me they dropped the pan to check for metal in the fluid when they swapped the transfer case. The tranny on the Cayenne has a drain plug... I'm with you, low fluid (dealer fail to refill etc...) or the torque converter is dying. The car has 9,400 miles on it....
This dealer is bullshitting you, obviously. Try to talk to a Porsche "Zone Rep" to get some satisfaction. This is why dealers have a bad rap.
I have the same problem with my S, 13,000 miles. Recently replaced the transfer case but the problem is back.
I have an update.... it seems that if you're left foot braking from a stop and hit the gas simultaneously with your right foot, the " nanny system" doesn't know whether you want stop or go.... so it takes a pause - up to 10 seconds! I've stopped left footing the brake and have not been able to duplicate the problem. My service guy, who is a gear head, ID'd the issue and solution. He's trying to find a white paper on it that I will post if I get it. Our Cayenne has both Sport and Sport plus not sure if that matters, regardless this quirk may have something to do with the quasi- launch control on the tiptronic trannys. Regarding the transfer case, once it was replaced the jerky acceleration stopped and its now super smooth. According to my dealer, they're not using reman'd TC's from Porsche because they've not scaled up production, so the factory is sending brand new units.
I have a 2016 cayenne s and at my wits end with acelleration issues. I've come nervous to pull out as I'm not sure it will go or not. Even when it's going okay it has a hesitation in the acelleration Thats noticeable to me. Love the car when it works well but have become increasingly discouraged and dealer claims nothing wrong. I also get this feeling of a harnessed power out of the blue while on the highway and I have to get the rpm' up to get through it. The sport mode doesn't seem to correct that harnessed power very much.
Had the same problem with my Volvo. I tried everything. The problem turned out to be a worn or dirty mass airflow sensor. After much frustration, that was the culprit. I bought an extra MAF sensor for my 2000 Carrera for $22 online. Easy fix. Good luck!
Interesting... I'll try anything at this point. Thanks for the reply
Gregpell - What you're describing is exactly what I experienced, I almost got clipped a couple of times. See my comments above for my solution. Interestingly it never happened with my wife, she's a right foot only driver. I switch up occasionally, old school...., but I'm more aware of that now when I drive the Cayenne. So far I've not been unable to duplicate the condition, but I've been extra careful not to apply the brake and gas simultaneously from a dead start...... Still waiting on a tech paper from my dealer on this. Hope this helps! This should probably be posted on a different thread, but out of curiosity how accurate is your speedo? Our's reads 4 mph high at 75, e.g. shows 75, actual is 71. I hate it! I've complained several times, got a note from Porsche USA Tech center saying 4 over is within spec.... Only other issue is the stop/start feature that defaults to "on" every time you restart the vehicle. There's a company in MI "t-design9.com" who sells a memory module that goes in the console that remembers your settings, e.g. S/S off, Sport on etc... Good reviews and diy installation etc.. I'll be getting one.
Not sure how my answer posted under Guru926R8, but this is really Scat958. Gregpell - What you're describing is exactly what I experienced, I almost got clipped a couple of times. See my comments above for my solution. Interestingly it never happened with my wife, she's a right foot only driver. I switch up occasionally, old school...., but I'm more aware of that now when I drive the Cayenne. So far I've not been unable to duplicate the condition, but I've been extra careful not to apply the brake and gas simultaneously from a dead start...... Still waiting on a tech paper from my dealer on this. Hope this helps! This should probably be posted on a different thread, but out of curiosity how accurate is your speedo? Our's reads 4 mph high at 75, e.g. shows 75, actual is 71. I hate it! I've complained several times, got a note from Porsche USA Tech center saying 4 over is within spec.... Only other issue is the stop/start feature that defaults to "on" every time you restart the vehicle. There's a company in MI "t-design9.com" who sells a memory module that goes in the console that remembers your settings, e.g. S/S off, Sport on etc... Good reviews and diy installation etc.. I'll be getting one.
I'm not sure on the speedo as I really hadn't considered it but now that you mention it once on a public radar speed zone warning it did so different from my speedo but I just discounted it at the time. for the acceleration.... I began to think that I was too light on the pedal and it wanted to be driven harder but I found no better results as it just creates a greater drop of power if it does initially start well. All these issues started at 17k when on the highway it out of the blue had the issue of harnessed power in a concerning manner and since then it's been horrible. I did notice when that occurred the tranny signal was showing both the auto and manual buttons red like it was confused. the only real offset to the loss of power seems to be staying in manual as that has given some improvement but I shouldn't have to do that in my mind. I'll check out your memory module suggestion. thanks
That sounds like more than the nanny systems. I'm guessing no cel or obdII codes are coming up? Have you tried resetting your throttle adaptation? Have you replaced your transfer case?
As a high speed driver instructor, NEVER drive with 2 feet unless when shifting using the clutch. Why do you see so many people driving into buildings and killing other people? It's because they are using 2 feet. Don't believe otherwise, because it's a dangerous habit. It also messes up the cars brain and doesn't know what to do.
I don't use two feet!!!
I haven't reset anything. The car now has 12,000 miles on it and has been to two dealers for the same problem. I also filed a complaint with Porsche.
It's got to be related to either the nanny software, the pedal signaling, or both. I hope you can duplicate it for the service folks that have hopefully escalated it up through Porsche....
What i am reading here is exactly what I am experiencing myself. I just took ownership of a 2016 Cayenne 3.6V6 base. On the test drive I noticed I would come to a stop, then after looking to make sure it was safe, went to pull out. The car SLOWLY started out and then I kept on pressing the gas pedal and FINALLY it lurched forward. I thought I did something wrong and forgot about it. After the purchase, it was there again, and again, and again. It has 3yrs left on warranty and I will use it. Now, reading other posts, specifically this one: Thought I would post the resolution. Porsche sent a tech manager out from Georgia to try and fix the acceleration problem. Within a few hours, he ascertained that it ws a software issue. He installed a software update and the delay is gone. Without this forum, we would have been up a creek. The dealer finally stopped denying the problem only after I supplied them with messages describing the same unfixed issues. Thank you I am confident it can be addressed with a software update. I have an appointment this coming Sat 8-26-17 @ 8:30am at the dealership to start the process. I will check back here and detail my progress and resolution.
Sometimes a little knowledge and the courage to display it can achieve remarkable positive results, good for you!!
Thanx Stephen, My wife and I love the car. It is really a remarkable machine. If I can just address this issue and start to really enjoy it, instead of worrying about it each and every time I sit in the drivers seat.... wow! You know what I mean. We do not actively drive it because of this issue. I worry about it every single time i come to a stop. Will it go or will I have to floor it? My wife has MS and it has affected her legs. With that said, she does not have the reaction time nor the motor control to navigate a failing gas pedal. It is a cause of MAJOR concern for me and for her. Like I said, I will be as courteous, respectful, kind, pleasant, and accommodating as i humanly can be to the Porsche dealership. I am sure they have to endure many many many irritated people every day and smile about it... which can not be easy. I will not be one of them. I am sure with logical conversation and honest real concern it will get addressed. I will keep all posted. Again, thank you for the kind words.
What you're describing is exactly what I experienced, I almost got clipped a couple of times. Interestingly it never happened with my wife, she's a right foot only driver. I switch up occasionally, old school...., but I'm more aware of that now when I drive the Cayenne. So far I've not been unable to duplicate the condition, but I've extra careful now not to apply the brake and gas simultaneously from a dead start...... No tech paper available from my dealer on this. Drove over 500 miles yesterday to see the eclipse, which by the way was righteous, and had zero acceleration issues. Caught myself a few times left footing the brake especially on hill starts....hill assist is still hard for me to trust. Hope this helps!
Scat958 it does. All info helps. I have been in touch with the Porsche Dealership in Atlanta and sent them all the links to all the blogs and posts including this one. I am relieved it is NOT just ME saying these things. I did do one of the mentioned "fixes" in that i turned off the PSM and it WORKED. BUT, as soon as you set the cruise, it sets the PSM enabled. I know it is a software issue now. Just hoping the SW update is easy and not a battle to get done.
I didn't try PSM. No need really after I toyed around with the car in an empty parking lot. Ours is a '16 base VR6 and it has a few quirky issues like the stop/start that won't stay activated between start ups. I detest this feature, it's not safe especially when it shuts off before you get stopped..... I've had it kick back on (lurched forward) a few feet from the car ahead and almost hit it. T-designs (?) has an aftermarket module for $200 that solves the problem, but it's my wife's car and she just deactivates the feature every time she gets in. Then there's the warranty issue if you installed the module.... My advice, take the car to empty parking lot and experiment with it.
Scat958: Keep your left foot at all times on the "Dead Pedal", it's called that for a reason, and it's there for a reason. ONLY drive using your right foot at ALL times. Break that dangerous habit of yours.
Further research .... I found where the "nanny" wants to see zero brake. I get that. But, I have a 2007 911 Turbo Auto and to does NOT exhibit this. I also turn off the auto stop / start ASAP. I too have seen it stop PRIOR to coming to a complete stop and all of a sudden start while stopped and lurch forward a tad. I think that has something to do with the battery and all the things on while the engine is stopped. I have my thoughts on it, but it is what it is. If it would just act like the 911 or my Sonata or my Camry or my Ranger....... a "normal" car..... with normal brake / gas interaction. Been driving for 30+ years. and it is a hard habit to "brake" ... get it? hahahaha.... Also got a Honda ST1300 so I know a tad about how to drive and what it should "feel " like... Just my .02.
Been driving over 50+ years. Taught high speed defensive driving for police depts and ambulance services. Autocrossed 100's of times and have driven many tracks such as Watkins Glen, Pocono and NHIS and Limerock. AAA certified instructor. Even on a track and driving "Heel-Toe" you only use one foot, except to clutch. I know what I'm talking about, and have NEVER driven granny style.
Granny here: How do you keep a car with an autobox from rolling backwards without using your left foot on the brake and no hand brake????
Use the hand brake
It seems wh have am impasse... Hand brake or no hand brake.. that is the question.
The auto tranny should be able to handle the hill situation at idle. I teach slowly releasing the hand brake as you give it some gas, much the same as a standard transmission.
What if you don't have a hand brake only a foot brake? In that case, you have to left foot brake on hills, you have no choice. However, Porsche decided to let the car e-brake for you on hills, e.g. hill assist. Left foot braking on hills with hill assist activated confuses the computer apparently when you hit the fly-by-wire accelerator pedal with your right foot, e.g. the computer doesn't know whether you want to stay or go.....hence the problem many of us are experiencing. Like I said, old habits are hard to break. I'm with you on heal-toe if you can master it. Most of us mortals have go with left foot braking for a variety of reasons. Clearly applying the brake and gas at the same time has its benefit. One common race situation that requires left-foot braking is when a racer is cornering under power. If the driver doesn't want to lift off the throttle, potentially causing trailing-throttle oversteer, left-foot braking can induce a mild oversteer situation, and help the car "tuck", or turn-in better. Mild left-foot braking can also help reduce understeer. In rallying left-foot braking is very beneficial, especially to front-wheel drive vehicles. It is closely related to the handbrake turn, but involves locking the rear wheels using the foot brake (retarding actually, to reduce traction, rarely fully locking – best considered a misapplication), which is set up to apply a significant pressure bias to the rear brakes. The vehicle is balanced using engine power by use of the accelerator pedal, operated by the right foot. The left foot is thus brought into play to operate the brake. It is not as necessary to use this technique with rear-wheel drive and four-wheel drive rally vehicles because they can be easily turned rapidly by using excess power to the wheels and the use of opposite lock steering, however the technique is still beneficial when the driver needs to decelerate and slide at the same time. In rear wheel drive, left foot braking can be used when the car is at opposite lock and about to spin. Using throttle and brake will lock the front tires but not the rears, thus giving the rears more traction and bringing the front end around. Be safe!
scd911 - Did the software update on 8-16-17 help?
Well.... i was told "that is how it is". They did find a few things... misconfigured. I do not belive it was fixed. I was unable to recreate the event when i went on a test drive with the tech. But they have an open case and it is under warranty.. i will continue to report the times and events.
I bet they just flashed the ECM. Sometimes that's all it takes because of all the electronics new cars in general have on board. (Give me something with a carburetor! LOL) I hope you have an extended warranty, it pays for itself. Ours came with a CPO 5/100K warranty, it came out of the dealer's loaner pool in April of this year with just 5.4K on the clock.
UPDATE: I was called by the service manager from the dealership after my 1st visit and they are honestly concerned. We spoke at length and I told them it did indeed exhibit the same issue again, although not as often. He was curious as to the conditions that it manifested itself. This made me really think. I told him i would contact him back with more intelligent information. Since that call, my wife and i drove it and really took note of all aspects. This is what I called him back with: The car drives great when 1st started and for the 1st 30 min or so. Once heated up and at running temp, it usually does it AFTER a lengthy trek on the HWY or steady driving. Example, I get on the interstate and cruise at 75 for 5 miles to the next exit. Take the exit and stop. Then, when turning left or right, it will hesitate. After that it will be a while and then random. Also, after a few quick stops and starts. Like, we went to CVS, my wife got out and got her prescription and came back, When we were turning out of the parking lot onto the main road, it did it. So... that is usually the conditions that it will present itself. Also, we spoke about the transfer case issues. He admitted the 2015 and 2016 had VINs that were prone to issues. according to him, ours was not in that line, but he would not rule it out. On another note, and more interestingly, I also have a 2004 Porsche 911 Carrera 40th edition. It has the M96 3.6L engine with the single row IMS bearing. I am sure you know of what I speak. Anyway, I need a new clutch and I was asking about the replacement cost and such. We started to talk about the IMS. He and I quickly came to the point where he knew I knew all about it and he leveled with me. Porsche .... PORSCHE.... has a FACTORY IMS bearing FIX and it comes with a 2 year WARRANTY. It is $765.00 /less labor. He told me Porsche came out with this about two months ago... so around... June of 2017. He said Porsche is worried about resale value of that line of car / engine and wanted to address the issue. If I get this installed at a Porsche certified service location with Porsche certified parts... it will have a 2 yr warranty and will raise the value as it is a perm FIX, not an aftermarket band-aid. With the receipt and parts list, I can ask more proving the engine is not going to grenade! FYI for all you M96 owners. I have the part number and all as i asked for an itemized quote. More to come.
While the clutch is being done, and hopefully a new rear main seal, the labor involved to installing the new IMS bearing shouldn't be more than 1-2 hours. So if a dealer gets $150/hr, the labor charge shouldn't be more than $300 or so. I would do it. But if the dealer charges you some ungodly amount for the install what do you do then? I'd pay no more $500 for the install. If you go to a Porsche shop, not a dealer, there are many honest installers out there that will sell you a guaranteed bearing with the clutch install for a lot less than any dealer. Porsche speed shops do this work all the time and at much better prices and take the time to do it right. Your choice. Me, I avoid dealers like the plague. Good luck.
I have already found the parts (less the IMS part) clutch kit, oils, etc... cheaper from pelican parts for example.... So, I will see if i can purchase they parts and they install. As far as the bearing, well....... for authenticity sake (at least for me) I would prefer a Porsche dealership to install. The total $$ quoted was about $2,150.00 give or take a $100.00 at the dealership. I was already quoted $1,950.00 for a clutch replacement at a place that does work on Porsche's and other imports... less the IMS. So, that ~ $2,200.00 included the IMS fix from Porsche. I feel it was a good $$.
Most all dealers will not guarantee supplied parts, you'd be lucky to find one that did. That being said, your price seems reasonable. Have 'em throw in a rear main seal, and I'd say you did OK. Good Luck
You read my mind.... i called and NO.... the parts will not be guaranteed... BUT... they are working a NEW quote WITH RMS.... and IMS... So.... we shall see... He did laugh however... saying I am one of the FEW that actually asked about the cost and new what I was asking about. We agreed, we were gears heads...
They will mark up their parts a-lot, sometimes to over 300%. One way or the other, thell get you. They use Sachs clutch kits, and Victor Reinz seals with Porsche labels on the box. You get to pay enormous mark-ups because the box says "Porsche". Check Rock Auto for the clutch and RMS costs. The savings will surprize you enough to find an independent shop. That's what I did on my 2000 Carrera Conv. Shop around.
Just did a quick check at Rock Auto. Sachs clutch kit: about $460. RMS about $15. All parts plus shipping. Same as Porsche parts. Porsche will want way more.
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