why is my break peddle soft after bleeding? i replaced all of the break lines and cyl. shoes drums etc.


Asked by Mar 09, 2012 at 09:43 AM about the 1972 Volkswagen Super Beetle

Question type: General

used a quart of fluid nothing is leaking we pump it up it gets hard open the bleeder fluid comes out no air
close the bleeder pedal goes half way down????????? thanks,

7 Answers


Did you replace the Master cylinder were Shoes all that you replaced? Is it all stock Drum brakes?

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

as i said before i replaced everything shoes, drums' cylinders'' springs' master cyl


I did see that you said "ALL" ....But was only wondering if you ,maybe put Disc on the front?? then a possibility would be , the calipers were on the wrong side. Was in no way Slighting your ability, sorry if it was taken that way.


Are your rear shoes adjusted / with some Drag on the Drum? [ possibility]


Also make sure you didn't use "old" brake fluid. Once a bottle is opened, it starts to absorb moisture from the air...after a few days it's done. I always buy small bottle so I only use what I need and can save the other bottles for later. Just a thought.


try replacing the rubber brake hoses from metal line to drum cylinders. each wheel has one. the inner diameter of the rubber in the lines(might not show wet spots or leaks) but "mushes" out thus the drum cylinder cannot push outwards. my were mushy even after I replaced all my drum parts. i replaced these hoses and it got better. but i still could not handle DRUM brakes. So I purchased the conversion kit from aircooled.net DUDE, I am so happy i did !!! My VW actaully stops rain or shine. aircooled.net even sent me detailed written instructions with the EXACT tools that I needed for the job. i also purchased the DVD on how to basic tune up which included brake adjusting. Best money I spent. I love my VW !!!


you also must bleed in sequence. front passenger side to drive side. the master cyl is divided into two separate sections. front and back. so just get the fronts working first. proper bleeding is. before you do anything... make sure your master cly is full of fresh brake fluid. dont chance contaimnation with old fluid. pump brake pedal until pressures builds up, leave foot pressed. looses brake bleed valve on drum, fluid should shoot out. at the same time, your foot should travel to the floor. do not let your foot off pedal. NOW have your buddy tighten the brake bleed value back up. now repeat this again and again on the same drum UNTIL you get a SOLID brake pressure. NOW repeat for driver drum. If you test your brakes and they become mushy again. then you need to BENCH bleed your master cylinder.

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