Ther is no fuel pump shut off (anersia switch)? WhAt shuts fuel off if vehicle is in an accident. is it airbag deployment?
Your fuel pump only comes on if it (computer) sees the engine turning over. A faulty cam/crank position sensor can cause this.
Daniel should see your question soon. He better with how the computers and electronics all work together.
Ok.well that makes better scence. engine not turning over because falty cps,crps malfunction. that's understanable. how can the engine run in default (not using signals from thes sensors. somthing like a fuel safty switch is the symptom.both fuel and spark r not present. the factory stereo was removed with wire cutters. iam thinking is in the antitheft. Car was runnin pooorly when parked a yearago thank u sir
Without signals from these sensors it will not run at all. It has to know what plug to fire and what fuel injector to spray and when. It gets that info from the sensors. Without info nothing will happen. Turn over but will have no fuel or spark.
sorta sounds like a bad ECU to me,, you should pull that ECU out and then open the ECU case and check for a bad fish smell and also look for bloated and broken capacitors, if that checks alright we need to check your crank/cam angle sensors with a voltmeter and also your PTU as well(controls the spark to the coils, then finally the coils as well,, I would do the easiest and most likely ones first so ECU, PTU, coils, CAS
Thanks Daniel I had hoped you would come to my rescue on this one.
I posted a list up before but had a cpl doubles and missed a cpl that I wanted in it,, and revised it so that the links would be in the order of what you should check first (im anal like that lol )
http://www.stealth316.com/2-ecmremoval.htm http://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php? title=ECU_ECS_Climate_Control_Capacitor_repairs&redirect=no http://www.stealth316.com/2-pwrtransunit.htm http://www.ehow.com/how_12129688_test-bad-tr-power-unit-transistor-3000gt.html http://www.stealth316.com/2-ignitioncoils.htm http://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php?title=CAS%2C_Crank_and_CAM_Angle_Sensors http://www.stealth316.com/1-repair.htm
Thanks ... it was the ecu. expensive fix. but the boss iss happier.. it starts and runs but when up to normal opp. temp. it idels low and somtimes dies.it starts rite back up.is ther a lengh of time while running needed by the new ecu to work out any bugs or self program
great glad ya got it sorted out how ya figure out it was the ECU anyways?
love if you could give me a best answer on it up where I called the ECU if that wouldn't be too much trouble
well is shouldn't take very long to reprogram its self,, that sounds like the IACV (idle air control valve) so it just ilde low and die or does the idle jump spike and dip ? even if its low it could be the IACV but if its all over the place spiking and dipping its almost a guarantee its the IACV,, heres the write up on how to remove test it, fix it and reinstall it,, or you could always just pull up to parts store and put the new one in if it don't work they will take it back,, I know advance auto will anyways,, seeing as its a simple screw driver to take it off its easy as hell to do it that way,,, but make sure your MAF is plugged in and theres no leaks in your intake plumbing as that will mess with your idle too because of unmetered air
well is shouldn't take very long to reprogram its self,, that sounds like the IACV (idle air control valve) so it just ilde low and die or does the idle jump spike and dip ? even if its low it could be the IACV but if its all over the place spiking and dipping its almost a guarantee its the IACV,, heres the write up on how to remove test it, fix it and reinstall it, http://www.stealth316.com/2-isc-iac.htm , or you could always just pull up to parts store and put the new one in if it don't work they will take it back,, I know advance auto will anyways,, seeing as its a simple screw driver to take it off its easy as hell to do it that way,,, but make sure your MAF is plugged in and theres no leaks in your intake plumbing as that will mess with your idle too because of unmetered air
oh forgot to mention that you should make sure the port that the IACV sits in is cleaned out,, just take some brake cleaner or something like that and spray a little in there and something to wipe or scrub it out,, sometimes those ports get gunked up and then air is choked off and defeats the IACV also just do a once over and make sure there nothing that isn't plugged in tight
Good call Daniel. You miles ahead of me on the electronics of these cars.
how you coming along on this Bobby? did you ever get it idling smooth?
Hay daniel. first off, thanks for the good call and the follow through. the ecu,as u know,was the trouble. your advise to remove and inspect for bloted capaciter or a bad fish smell was the clincher. opon further inspection i found several burnt conections possibly due to a cup or two of coffee .. that's what it looked like anyway. I spent a bit more time under the hood and removed all rubber intake tubing and airfilter. cleand and inspected.found a small crack in tubing and repaird it with ease. a new air filter later and "BAMM" Thanks again. it runs great. fast f---in car g-)
nice !!! so no more shitty idle ?
Not any more. idle is calm and hardly any vibration. this is good news concidering how long it sat outside in tillamook weather.. i forgot to tell ya last message that i also added some good injector cleaner to the 40 bucks of super unleaded i put in it. soo. its hard to say relly the cure when i did all those things prior to checkin poor idle problem. i know better then that. but its runnin great and that's what this is all about. thanks again bro and keep up the good work. bobby
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