I have a 1984 Chevrolet scottsdale truck. It has a 305 v8 5.0 liter engine no overdrive. It is my first vehicle and I want to make it badass. But that takes a little speed and it didn't have it.
305's are low compression & low hp. Buy a crate Chevrolet performance 350 V8 engine! Check online or your Chevrolet dealership parts dept. Find someone to install it.
How much money are you willing to spend. Speed costs money. Like the old saying, "How fast do you want to go? How much money do you have." You can rebuild your 305 to a BA engine for less money that a crate engine. Crank, bore out, pistons, CAM, heads, headers, big carb, and go. A rebuild will go between $1,500 to $2500. A crate engine will start at $2500. Be careful who you have build the engine. Shade tree mechanics are a dime a dozen, and so is their work. Go to a big car parts store, (Not pep boys) and ask around about who does good engine rebuilds. Next you will need to spend some money on a transmission and drivetrain gear. You are entering an area of never having enough money to go a little bit faster.
scrap the 305 and start with a 350.
I agree about the 305, but they still make parts for it, and it was a strong engine. the 350 is better and a crate engine (new one) is really the way to go as they offer a guarantee and you can order what you want, all the way from s bare block to a turn key and with a transmission also. Pricy way but so much less headache. This is a picture of my bare crate 350 , block only, and now puts out over 445 HP. 10 grand+. Look at what is offered for crate engines.
Exactly ! Many people tried to squezze hp from 305-307's with not many results in performance. A 350 performance Chevrolet crate motor is the way to go. It's got high compression pistons, 4 bolt mains, etc. I like the ZZ4 aluminum heads too. But trending now are the LS engines. They say they make much more hp than old small block designs.
The 305 is a strong motor and you can put any piston in you want, cam, boar it out, and put trick heads, carburetors or EFI, hot ignition and headers. The 350 is a bigger engine and more HP can be squeezed out of it. The LS engines are all electronic and can keep a fine tune and top performance going all day long. It's money you need to keep in mind. 305 ci have been know to reach low 400 in HP and 350 around 500 using the old parts and 60s/70s magic. Spend the money on a LS engine and pump out the 800 we are seeing today.
The 350 has 4 bolt main caps, & a Tuff-Tride crank, & heavy duty rods, & notched pop-up pistons, for high performance. The 305-307 doesn't. The legendary high rev 302 is built specially high perf too. The 305-307 in a low compression, low hp, regular gas, 2 bbl., passenger car motor, and not intended to be maxed out & modified. (thin cylinder walls, small port heads). A totally different small block casting. Better to use a stronger more robust V8, 350. I know, I had a 307 in a 1969 C-20 truck with a duel profile RV cam, & tube headers, with no other mods. I drove it across country. The 2 bbl. engine got 21+ mpg.
* and maybe my 307 made 200-250 hp. ? 300 hp @ 6-7000 RPM's would be pushing it too much on the weaker crank & rods. The low comp. pistons & small port heads are not high perf. A bad platform to build-up to high perf.
My 350/350 hp sb lowered Chevy C-10. I owned both a 1969 307 C-20 once & a 350 C-10 later. A 350 Chevy engine into a CJ-5 Jeep, and raced a SS 396 69' Camaro then bought & installed a 427 L-88. I know Chevrolets.
No one said you don't know Chevy engines James. Chevy retooled for the 327 and again for the 350 using longer stroke and larger bore. The original 350 did not all come with 4 bolt mains though. GM also changed the metal used in the old 350s block casting that could not stand the high HP pounding over the long haul. Later throughout the ages it was found to have a lot of metal fatigue until GM changed the metal formula for the later 350 engines in the late 70s or early 80s. What I was saying about the 302 engine was it can be built, using the block but all internal parts need to be after market. If money is his concern, he can use the old engine, but it will not last as a built high output motor. The newer, although forged in Mexico, 350s are the stronger engine and are found in the crate engine sales. My original 350 in my Corvette, two bolt main, developed three major internal cracks after 30 years and 325,000+ miles. I swapped it out for the bare 350 Mexico crate motor four bolt. I aded all after market internal parts and all external attachments. We are not in disagreement here my friend. Just trying to save an up and coming gear-head some money.
I just dumped my dual quads and added duel EFI throttle bodies and put an H tube on my exhaust. (Y tube would not fit on the Corvette as the exhaust pipes are strapped for spam) My 445 HP is now near 485 HP on a stroked and 0.040 bored crate 350. I had a max Crane cam in my first rebuild with flat pistons. On my second rebuild, it was found I only had 0.001 of an inch clearance between the open valve and the piston at TDC. So I had American Cam in Chino make one that has 0.003 inch clearance. Lost 10 HP but kept my engine intact. So be careful if you have flat pistons.
Go with a used, low mileage 350...they can be found if you ask trustworthy auto parts stores, get references etc. That's the most inexpensive way...best bang for the buck. Take your time and shop...they're out there. Even some with warranties. Another way is check out rebuilt engines from reputable companies like Blaine's.
I rebuilt an original, stock 305 LG4 truck motor last Summer in my 86 C10. Thrilled with result and heard too many folks say get a 350. The cheapest crate 350 is about $2500 for 290hp. For $1700 I put aftermarket cam, roller rockers, aluminum heads, headers, intake and carb on a 90000 mile 305 born with 145hp and now dyno'd at 353hp. The bores had great original cross hatching thanks to that era being so underbuilt. 14 months later still runs fantastic. Best part, people hear a lopey cam, well tuned motor and cannot believe it's a 305. Any motor can run strong when right parts used and it can breath. I could have used a junkyard 350 or other sbc with 4" bore and made more hp. But it's fun to repurpose a perfectly fine engine and take advantage of the best time ever to buy aftermarket parts for a gen 1 motor. Everyone wants a LS motor now and the power available is worth the reputation but ... entry level is over $8000. So, all those who nay say a 305 I simply say what's wrong with bang for the buck on a widely available and cheap block, resulting in a 9.4 to 1 comp ratio that is a blast to drive. Don't need 4 bolt mains at just over 350hp, and still using factory 10 bolt. Best $1700 ever spent to wake up an old mouse. Have given several "O5" doubters a ride and they are speechless.
Good afternoon ! I Am an owner of one 1982 Chevrolet C 10. Original IT was A 6.2ltr. Diesel in IT. Have pulled that one out and installed one 350 gas engine. 12568758 in IT. IT has A power AS 210 HP. Torque is 300. Is there someone that can give me an indication / statement that this Truck Frame - suspension and breaksystem Will Take that engine installed . Need IT for the authorities in Norway. Please help me out with A replay. In advance thank You ! John. email@example.com
Guru5MYTR, The truck was designed to hold the smaller and lighter engine. The breadsystem also was designed on that set standards. Adding a heaver engine will necessitate a stronger suspension system, either carryover shocks, and or stronger springs. The frame should be strong enough but adding or welding supports to the frame shouldn't help. The breaks need to be beefed up to stop the heavier weight also. If you go with a 350 engine, consider a transmission that works with the engine, drive train to support the higher HP and torque, and rear end. Rear suspension and breaks upgrade should also be done. Now with a diesel engine, it is or should be heavier, so look at the difference of weight of the 350 V-8 vs what the diesel weighed. You have a lot of work ahead to do the conversion, and expense. Good luck, have fun, and think before spending money on parts you may not need, or need stronger. I recommend an automatic transmission, as it should be a better and less complicated swap.
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