2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible - No Crank, No Click, No Start


Asked by Jul 15, 2014 at 11:00 PM about the 2000 Chrysler Sebring

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. Forgive my ignorance in some area, I am not
experienced with cars in the slightest. I have only gotten to as far as I’m at now by
googling my symptoms for a very long time with no luck on a solution.

Symptoms Before No Crank/No Start:

Dies while idling.
Sometimes it would crank longer than normal before it eventually start.
“ABS” light on (I don’t think this is related)
“Trac off” on ( I don’t think this is related)

Symptoms After No Crank/No Start:

Turning key - no sound, no crank, no clicking, all inside electricals turn on including
same symptoms for park, neutral, and all gears.

Now I checked fuse 8 (20a), it looks fine. but to be sure I swap it with several
surrounding 20a fuses, no change.  

I checked the ASD relay and Starter relay. Swapped them around with the fan relays
(identical part number) many times with no change.

I am getting a spark.

Heres where this start getting specific….. Shorting out the starter causes the gear
motor to spin, but doesn’t actually turn it on fully or crank. However, pulling the plastic
case from the starter relay and shorting it causes the starter to crank. The engine does
not turn over still.

While these test were being performed the key was in the fully forward position  for
example the four positions, I believe, are acc-off-run-start (I am unsure if this is
accurate or not). I also attempted manually tripping both the ASD relay and the Starter
relay simultaneously to perhaps influence some fuel to be directed to wherever it might
need to go. this did not work.

Now then, I sprayed starter fluid in whilst manually tripping the Starter relay, and it will
start up briefly. Very weak mind you, and it just dies out as fast as it is coming in.

Things I have not tried:

Removing battery terminals for attempting a hard reset, mainly due to the very
inconvenient battery location.

Bypassing the Neutral Safety Switch located in the transmission.

I don’t know how or have the gauge to check fuel pressure.

I have not attempted to manually spin the crankshaft (I think thats what it’s called) with
a socket wrench. I did try to tug on the belt to see if it would easily turn by hand but it
was stiff.

I have not tried installing a new Ignition Key/Switch. (I assume that involves resetting or
reconfiguring some sort of securty or controller device so I don’t just get locked out by
the alarm anti theft stuff.) If it is just a simple drop in replacment type install then I would
like to know that as well.

What I really need is someone to chime in and let me know what and how I should
check in order to rule out and narrow down my possibilities. Replacing things one by
one is not an option for me until I have exhausted every option that requires little to no
spending. I don’t mind buying little things if I need them to test, but purchasing an entire
starter, for example, just to perform a ‘trial and error’ test is the kind of thing I’m trying to
avoid for now.

I want to thank you for your time and thank you for any replies in advance. I naturally
depend very much on my vehicle, and need it fixed as soon as possible.

10 Answers


After reading your post,just one thing that come,s to mind is ,check that starter,sound,s to be bad,to me ,think it,s shorting out ,your car keeping it from cranking. Good luck with it.


If you by passed the starter relay and it cranked but not from the key sounds like the security system is active..... not reading the key its a failsafe to keep car from being stolen. Did this just happen one day or was it progressive? Stalling ect? The small red dot will flash a series of flashes. Skim reader or the key may have been exposed to a demagnatizer as the key is an rf key. The dealer will be ness to solve the issue. As a DBR is ness to repair, reprogram.

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Ecm and key*

4 out of 4 people think this is helpful.

Yeah, it was progressively harder to start and would stall while idling every once in a while. And I belive the SKIM light is on. The displays show "CCM" and "No Bus"

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

No bus on the odometer?

3 out of 3 people think this is helpful.

The body control module is dead. It is located on the inside of fuse box blue box. Dealer will still need to DBR to "flash" the bcm.


I have a 1996 Chrysler sebring convertible. We replaced the distributor and car started for about 2 weeks. stopped running again. we replaced starter and it started 4 times then died again. wants to crank over but won't run. took it to a mechanic. he got a reading bad distributor so he replaced the distributor again. we also had replaced all relays. the mechanic got the car to start up after replacing distributor again went to back it out of shop and it died again. we think it might be the anti theft device causing the engine to die. Does anyone know if you can reset the anti theft device or disable it all together?? thanks!

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

If the red security dot is illuminated during this malfunction the skim reader or key body control module needs programmed (at the dealer) as the DBR programmer is not available to public

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

I guess it's fixed now after 3 months but if not my guess is the crankshaft sensor. Some of the other problems are red herrings me thinks. Would be interested if you have fixed it to know what it ended up being ??

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

Septr.. did you get it fixed .I'm going thru the same problem . I have Exactly done everything you have done and everything you said exactly is going on with this 2000 sebring

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