01 sebring convertible- car wont start and radio wont work please help
have a 2001 sebring convertible . It currently will not start . Not even will you hear it trying to turn over. The radio wont work as well. We thought it was the battery so we tried jump starting the car that didn't work. The battery turned out to be fine, so it has to be something else. The night before the car stop working someone tried to break into the car and the alarm went off. Since then, the car hasn't started I am not sure if it could possible be from that or some other issue. Another thing I have tryed is changing the fuses for the radio and the starter fuse. When I turned the key , you could hear the car try to turn over once and then nothing again. I really need help trying to figure out what I can do to fix this. Please help. Thanks
HAve you tried the starter and/or the solanoid? It really sounds like your battery though - sometimes they run down so low they just won't take a charge...
The battery was the first thing that I tryed .We tocharge to ok it to autzone and the guy checked it and it had enough battery to start the car. Everything else has power going to it other than the radio. I havent tried the starter 0r the solanoid . any suggestions on what to do .
Did you ever figure out what was wrong. Mine is doing the exact same thing. I have a 2002 Sebring. Please help
Did you ever figure out what was wrong with it?
take the - cable off wait for a short while and then put it back on it will reset itself
fuse # 8 under the hood is blown, try replacing w a fresh one, its a 20A, after that if you see more nusance blows you can try a 25 A but no larger and see how it does. The problem is design, there are 4 circuits fed downstream on that fuse, if the collected load builds some resistance it will exceed the capacity of the fuse. I rectified this on one by replacing the fuse with a self resetting circuit breaker.
you need to get a thorough check up done on ur sebring. kindly visit a reliable dealer. http://chryslersebring.org/pics/
I have a 2002 Sebring Convertable. I am having the same problem with the fuse to my starter blowing. It seems to happen more when I am using the a/c or heat. Yesterday it blew 7 fuses in a row before it started. I like the breaker idea. Anyone else tried this? Is it expensive?
jackmanmachine...you are spot on! I looked this up because my car was sitting down at a convenience store dead as could be, came home looked up my problem and seen your post. We ran and bought 20A fuses, replaced the 1st one and bingo the car started! If you ever see this, Thank you LOADS!
due to the alarm going off, the system may have shut-down your starter. If you have an alarm reset, do that. sometimes if you put your key in the door and turn it TWICE as if you're unlocking ALL the doors, it will reset itself that way. Best wishes.
Wow...I would of bet a weeks salary. Replacing #8 fuse fixed my son's 2002 Sebring after 4 1/2 hours of testing other components. Thanks guys. Next time, I will check here first.
I got 1997 chryler sebring and mine shut down it wont even start period this car has given me nothing but headache replace parts guy think I got short in wires cus fuse blew and stuck nickel in wher the fuse goes and it wanted to start grrr help sick of spending money this car are junk and cant wait to get rid of it
I see lot of ppl on here are having trouble as well with this cars this cars are junk and once I get rid of mine i will never buy no more i have change og senors to erg plug now it just shut down worthless car
I have a 2002 Sebring and when I turn the key on and turn to start it blows a starting fuse. Anyone have any ideas????
check fuse 9 under hood, place 20a circuit breaker in place of fuse. Chrysler has a couple of branch circuits downstream of this and collectively an increased load condition causes an overload ON STARTUP only. instant burn fuse cant cope.
oops, or 8, just replace the offending fuse with a micro circuit breaker, avail from napa, they don't blow as fast from a high amp condition.
Thank you "jackmanmachine"! Fuse #8 was the problem with our 2002 Sebring car not starting. We also replaced the battery before reading your post, but it was bad as well. Appreciate your post. Thanks, Dan
Hi, I am having problem with the remote starter and radio after my car battery dies for not driving for a while. The battery is performing fine after I started my car using booster, however the radio and part of the remote starter feature such as door lock/unlock, trunk open is not working. Starting is working though with the remote starter. Could anyone please help me how to solve it?
my 99 sebring alarm system goes off when I got to start it up an I have to wait 18 minutes for everything to go back to normal. idk whats wrong with it.
my chrystler sebring does not want to start its a 2000 coverter has more then half a tank and a new battery .iassumed some one put something in my tank n nothing seems to be different doesnt smell lke oil so i had a maintence check it out and he saw thast ther e was a lot of oil in the engine -that wasnt get any sparks so i purchased a ingintion coil hopefully thats it
The particular tip regarding the car not starting and the radio not working was very helpful. I had the exact same problem and replacing fuse #8 with a new 20A fuse fixed my Chrysler Sebring Touring '06. This was easy simple and DIY.
i have a 2006 sebring, it wont start and the radio will not turn on i have a new battery, what could be the problem
there are two branch circuits that are also fused downstream of the #8 fuse under the hood. replace this bl;own fuse with a 20a and drive away. the combined load degredation is too much when the start circuit engages and POP goes the fuse. I had actually used a mini circuit breaker and plugged that in. never had another issue.
put in a 20a breaker or a 25 amp fuse...the breaker trips slower so there is no problems, upping the fuse one size did remedy the situation
So I'm having the same issue on my 01 sebring convertible.. I changed the fuse and it blew again. Should I try a 25 or just go with the mini circuit breaker?? I have a new battery only 2 months old..
put in the 25 and drive away, , the mini CBs are actually difficuly to get in there, im an electrician so I made a modification.
Thanks It worked! And is still working!!
I have a 2000 chysler sebring jx my car was work fine until the another day on wednesday my car wouldn't start. Sometimes i have to get a jump to start it and it would start, when i got a jump it wouldn't start i had to buy a new battery. Now since i have a new battery it still won't start someone told me it's the alarm could u please help .
To set my alarm is on the passager door if u open the driver door the alarm will sound. To turn it off i have to go to the passager door and turn it off. Could someone please help me get my car started i appreciated thank u.
replace fuse # 8 under the hood with a 25a one, you will find it blown. this should resolve your issue
I did change the fuse and it still won't start
was it blown when you pulled out the old fuse? and /or did the replacement fuse blow?
No they both was good and i test all the fuse and they were all good. Someone told me that the alarm shut down everything under the hood and reset everything except the ignition put i unplug the PCM wich is the brain. Wat can i do please help.
thats out of my string then, If the radio works when you turn the key and still works after you turn it all the way to start then your problem is not with the symptom thats described here. I dont have access to the schematic right now for that car or I may have been able to offer a solution.
The radio works it's not turning over. Thank u for ur help
Thanks so much, had the same issue and it was the fuse! Saves me a lot of time
My friends 2002 Sebring died in front of a convenience store. I read these posts, and saved her tons of money in towing and repairs, by replacing that #8 fuse under the hood. Car had lights, but no sound from the ignition. Changed the fuse and it started right up.
glad I helped you...
Replace the Starter and then replace the #8 Fuse. DO NOT replace the fuse with a higher Amp fuse. 1997 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 240,000 miles. First starter about 100,000 miles ago, and just did my second one now. If you get it towed to a shop and they say there is nothing wrong with your starter, force them to change your starter, it is failing. Easy to do yourself, you'll just need to remove the oil filter. It also helps to have an air-ratchet, because you can't move very much, but I've done it without.
My 97 Sebring just died while I was driving down the road, it burns oil so I change it periodically and I haven't lately so it was low, it started off sputting while I was stopped. So I pulled over bought some oil. Put it in and let it sit for a minute started it and drove it around the parking lot, no change. So I figured I'd make it back home and figure out the issue. As I was driving I heard a pop and then the car just shut off, wouldn't even attempt to turn over. Battery was fine my radio was still on. I had it towed home and I took a look at it and the motor fuse was blown. So I replaced the fuse with the sane size from , my power window fuse which I don't have so I figured no biggy? And I started it and it tried to turn over then that fuse blew. Went out and got 2 same amp fuses . blew both of them. I'm afraid to try the higher amp ones? Help!?
cirlGo up one size in fuse... if it's a dead short it will still blow that. ... I'mguessing it won't. ....
Ok guys.. little late but I'll give you all your answer. 1.. number 8 fuse is your ignition, fuel pump, and starter circuit. .. 2 first test you always should perform is simple process of elimination.. Test.... First turn the key to the run position. Does it blow the fuse? If the answer is yes .. then pull the fuel pump relay, replace the fuse and repeat the test. Turn key to run position. Does it blow the fuse? If so then you have a bad ignition relay, wire, or switch.. if it doesn't blow the fuse then your problem is with the fuel pump circuit. Now assuming you cycled the key to the run position and it didn't blow the #8 fuse.. go ahead and click to the start position. Does it blow the fuse? Yes I bet.. either A your starter selenoid is buggered or you have corroded connections or a bad starter wire... check your positive battery post this is usually a good indicator.. lots of white and green shit? I bet. This is because you have a lot of resistance on the starter circuit.. clean all your connections and I bet your problem will be fixed if not replace the starter.. your welcome hope this helps people.
And folks don't post bad advice.. nvr nvr ever replace a fuse with a higher amp then required. Period... if it's blowing fuses then you have resistance in the circuit or a dead short. Jumping the fuse or replacing with a larger one will only make your headache worse cause you will burn up your wiring.. as for the idea of a breaker no.... just no... fix the problem .. don't look for the easy fixes.. or take it to a mechanic..
20 amp is blowing again and again. 25 amp worked! What should i do next for the permanent fix?
Clean all your connections on the starter circuit
I found the conductor under the fuse block, installed a sealed tap with a fuse holder, ran the other lead to the bus and put a 20a breaker in. Patrick- if you don't know don't comment. There are two more fused branch circuits downstream off that fuse. A fuse blows much quicker then a breaker from the sudden in rush of current, there isn't a short. Age+poor design leads to the circuit getting too close to the+80% of start current of the fuse rating. ...... the Chrysler dealer (actual owner) I was taking to yesterday re how much I hated working on those. ... said"put in a breaker" which is what I conveyed. 20a breaker will do it. .. but it has to be external, not enough room under the fuse block cover
And Patrick, if that's all that's on the circuit when the fuse blows why does the radio and dash lights go out. .. it's more then you think. The starter conductor has nothing to do with it, that's on the other side of the starter solenoid. Your"tests" are great for mechanics selling parts. Take a better look at the schematic
Ok bud. I don't know what I'm talking about then. Maybe u should teach all of us mechanics how it's done. But first tell me . Why do fuses blow? Is it age of vehicle? Or corrosion causing resistance? Do u even know what resistance is or how to test for it? NO... also if you actually read what I said you'd see I explained alot more than just the starter. You people. I don't care. This is my last post. You don't take the time to read. You just assume. So go ahead and Jimmy rig your cars together till they lite on fire I don't care. I'll continue to fix them right and sufficiently because my licenses require me to do it right. But what do i know I've only been a master tech for 13 years.
Oh and here's some electrical theory for u.. first there is no in rush of current. A circuit remains open until u close it. When it's closed u now have draw.. not push. Pull.. if your fuses are blowing your drawing to much current. 2 those fuses down stream u speak of.. are relays . The same relays I spoke of earlier in my test. They will be a starter relay. A fuel pump relay and ignition relay. If u took the time to read everything you'd know this.. but hey I had the exact same problem now 80 times or more. I gave u the solution that has worked for me now ohhhhh 80 times. But anyways. Your uneducated and ignorant so I don't hold it against u. But do not say idk what I'm talking about sir. Especially if what you say doesn't even make sense. Oh and please tell us all what is a conductor? Jesus ... wow. Tell me when your fuel pump quits are u gonna attempt to install some cheap online pump sir?
Oh and if your referring to all your fuses being tied they are not sir. Only on the power side of the bus. Any fuse block has 12v in that will lead down the bus to which all fuses will be linked. From there I assure u that a fuse of this nature will then power a relay.( switch) this is because your starter draws huge amps and for safety purposes it makes sense to switch large current with small current switches.. this way you don't have 200 amp 4 Guage wires running to your ignition switch that could cook u... See I read Schematics daily. And took it in school. And I assure u if a fuse is blowing then there is resistance on the circuit somewhere. You could have fixed it for free with brake clean and sand paper and common sense of automotive electrical systems. Which is just direct current electrical theory. Now ac current that's a different story. Oh that's right I'm also a red seal millwright... In ontario canada I'm licensed and qualified to fix pretty much anything. And yes I'm a real smart ass to people that mouth me off who are less intelligent than me. Have a good life. Cause if this little problem is stumping you your doomed. Well lunch break is over me and the boys had a good laugh I'm gonna go reassemble an old grand am that I tore down this morning and put head gaskets in. Good luck to u all. You unappreciative asses. I came here to help. But apparently you all know what your doing .. it's not hard to see your American eh. Can't tell yas nothing.
And Patrick, if that's all that's on the circuit when the fuse blows why does the radio and dash lights go out. .. it's more then you think. The starter conductor has nothing to do with it, that's on the other side of the starter solenoid. Your"tests" are great for mechanics selling parts. Take a better look at the schematic Btw...ALL circuits have resistance. .. not only ones that blow fuses
Your an idiot . I'm done. Bahahaha this is why your car breaks and mine don't.
Mike I challenge u to come to Canada and teach me some shit haha.. come to my shop and tell me and the boys about your electrical theory. Quit picking apart what I say. U have no argument because I'm right. You'll nvr make it as a mechanic bud. In my shop it's required that we get to the root of the problem and fix it. And do it right the first time. I'd nvr let u touch my car. Your only masking an issue. And u will eat your words when your starter burns up hahaha. So don't tell me your starter selenoid has nothing to do with it. I assure u it most certainly does. Your just to ignorant to listen to reason or logic.
Chill guys :) U both are awesome and give good fix to people like us who doesnt know abc of mechanics and electrical!! I am an IT guy.. Haha
I couldnt take my car to the mechanic because of weekend. Now fuse is not blowning still my car is not starting. Radio is working
Unlike last time radio is working! What can i do to start it to take it to mechanic shop?
If the radio stays on and the fuse doesn't blow. ... I would lean toward shot ignition switch. .. MAYBE solenoid. ... the primary side of the solenoid may have opened (can only know for sure with an ohm meter) put key in run and short high amp poles on solenoid with a screwdriver. Engine should turn over and fire, if not, starter is shot. ... A shot starter will not blow that fuse, that's on the secondary side of the solenoid and another circuit entirely. You need to see if 12v gets delivered to the solenoid when the key is pushed to start if it doesn't, starter switch in the column is the culprit. If it IS, then a bad solenoid
Oh. And Patrick. .." uh huh" mechanics are notoriously weak on electrical issues. ..... you speak of your"class"on it. ... that's all I do. Not exhaust, oil change, suspension, tires, alignment, (the bulk of a shops work) stick to wrenches and leave the dmm in the tool box (know what a dmm is? )
And on another note pat. ... the circuit that kicks the starter is exclusive of the starting circuit. It's on the contactor side of the solenoid so it will get burned up how? ......... the solenoid is a relay, high amp relay. ... the secondary side (contactor side) is exclusive of the starting circuit.
Try this .. pull the starter relay .. turn the key to the start position.. does it blow the fuse? Nope... doubt it.. the switch is not the short haha.. does your battery wire from the fuse block to the starter have alot of corrosion on it.. ( blue and white shit) be cause it's lead copper and aluminum and when it oxidizes it doesn't rust and create iron oxide. It creates other oxides. Which change the color to blue and white powders.. there u go .. chemistry electrical physics.. and I'll get psychological now and tell u some men just hate to hear there wrong.. and I won't get into it.. Pull the relay. Then try it.. if the switch is the short it'll pop the fuse.. if not. Then 9 times out of 10 u have way to much resistance on the starter circuit .. it's more than likely a prolonged issue that has now blown the the brushes in the starter motor or wore the commentator shaft out of it... more than likely by having to much resistance on the circuit.. Known causes are poor repairs by in knowledgeable people who instead of cleaning the terminals and relieving resistance . Instead mask the issue and put larger fuses in tamper with wiring and so on and so forth. There you go.. there's your answer and if your not gonna listen then don't complain when it cost you more money to find out I was right.
Hey Mike how about the starter relay? How about broken wires? How about oh lots of simple stuff? You jump straight to a faulty ignition switch ? Really? Wow.. your incredible yet you try to burn me. Wow. It must be hard to read and comprehend what I say with your head so far up your ass. I come to help. I give good solid information. I apply logic and common sense ... you rely on luck and idk what else.
Digital multi meter ass hole... know what a dtc is? Or a bcm or system I m or here's a fun one a pci bus ? When was the last time you used an oscilloscope? I just did 3 hrs ago to diagnose a fuel pump circuit malfunction .. idk where you've been for the last 20 years. But you ain't gonna fix shit unless you know electrical theory and computers. So yea.. challenge me again.. you sir need to stop. This wasn't an argument until you started it and brought me in.. and since I make my living off what I know and I'm very good at it and people come to me because of my wisdom.. I can honestly say .. your green. Your ignorant... you are incorrect a fair bit.. but the worst thing of all you don't listen to reason or logic. You let your temper control you and you act childish.. nothing I have said has been false. I said master tech... and millwright .. that's mechanical in all aspects and electrical. Computers .. hydraulics. . Pneumatics. . Diesel engines.. all if it.. generators .. pumps drives.. gear boxes. Turbo hydraumatic transmissions. Oh and I majored in physics .. and love law and I play piano...
Oh and the starter selenoid is more than a relay jees.. it also snaps your bendix gear out and into position with the drive plate. .. wow.. and it is not separate either .. your one single ignition wire will switch all relays I assure you... did you know in most modern vehicles there is only one fuel injection driver module in pcm or ecu .. in fact up to 8 injectors are controlled on 1 wire systems. Pci bus will trigger a d send different frequency s down the same wire.. this is where your oscilloscope comes in handy and knowing how to calculate binary code from it. Oh yes ... you are arguing with a very very intelligent human being.. Weird thing is all I tried to do was help.. pass on my wisdom.. share my knowledge. . For free at that.. and you just well your you.. we should talk with your mother your father and all who are close to you.. I'm sure they'll have lots to say about your egotistical ways. Your anger and so on and so forth. Me naw people will tell u .. I'm fun easy going. Help anyone I can and an awesome teacher .. take care folks.. Mikes got it all from here. I'm out. Say good ridins .. but you'll all see hahaha haha just keep buck sheeting and rigid your cars. And nvr learn to do it correctly
Holy wow.. Mike you give the most incorrect info... wow.. you bet your ass a shot starter can blow fuses.. go talk to a mechanic humor me.. tell him what I said.. let him read this shit.. go embarrass yourself.. please.. then educate yourself and come back. And tell us all how your car works..
Mike didn't you earlier explain how the starter . The selenoid. The starter relay. Ie. The " starter circuit" had nothing to do with this.. nor could it have anything to do with this. I suggest your read all our post before you open your yap again it's ignorance like yours that's ruining our world.. and definitely my trade. You have now done nothing but argue with me. And now concurr with my first post. Your just a jerk. Seriously. And u asked for this ass reaming .. you assume to much.
Well that made my point. Resistance and current flow are inversely proportionate. If resistance is increasing in the circuit the current flow through the circuit is decreasing. .... less current flow does not blow fuses. It's the DECREASE in resistance that causes a fuse to blow. A breaker of the same rating isn't fast blowing and solves the issue of nuisance fuse blows. Your backwards on what resistance in the circuit does to current flow. And made my earlier point well.
So i called a mechanic today. He replaced starter and everything is working fine now!! 20amp is also not blowing!! It cost me $123 for starter and $80 for labor!! Thanks
Shut up Mike. Your wrong you always were. Good job Sameer. I'm glad to hear you took it to somebody and got er fixed. I'm also happy they treated you fair. Out of curiosity how long did it take them to diagnose it? 10 mins? Lmfao.. Mike take your currency resistance and shove it.. if Sameer listened to me in the beginning he would have diagnosed a starter over am ping the circuit and blowing the fuse.. period.. shut up.. Oh but wait that's impossible.. fack Mike even when your wrong and everyone's aware you are you still keep going. Just stop.. fack.. i hate guys like you. Your impossible. . You need to be quiet and listen sometimes. Maybe sometimes you got a unique idea. Maybe I'd even listen. But not on this one. U were wrong in the start your wrong in the end.. the problem was exactly as I suspected..... when your done eating your foot. You can apologize and I'll consider doing the same for being rude...
Mike go to school. Learn watts theory... that's all I can say. A switch closes a circuit. There's resistance on the positive side.. voltage is dropping. What happens? You bet your ass amperage climbs .. I'm not gonna argue .. maybe you should put you dmm away.. because you don't know how to use it or what any of it means..
Argue that I dare u... why is it that when I go to work in a factory all the motors I fix are 3 phase.. that's right 600v ? Tell me? I'll answer it for you .. high voltage = low amps so I still get the same wattage. God.. u don't listen.. You have my damn fuses about to pop .. because of all the resistance you give me.
So you are a master mechanic with 14 years? Design fuel systems? And now doing industrial electrical maintenance? In western Canada. . That's where they use 575. Your diatribe mhaven't metakes no sense. What is easily gleaned is your prob a second semester student in a automotive science program. Learned enough theory to know something and thinks your the only person out there using an O- scope. Your rant didn't make a comparison. IF your talking about the 3 phase motors from high to low voltage (240/480 here and in eastern Canada) wattage not changing but amps does, back to a change in the winding resistance. From your earlier posts it sounded like a fragile young ego, unfortunately your neither mature enough or wise enough to know what you don't know. Because you already know all. I have yet to meet a"master automotive technician"that has ever touched a 3 phase motor. You read about them in your textbook on basic theory
Hi there, chrysler sebring 2004 , last 3weeks fuse #9 kept blowing so power doors did not work but car started just fine now car does not start, radio does not work, windshields do not work the rest of the electrical things seem to be working ok (lights, beam, horn, windows I try to jump start battery as well with no luck) all the fuses are fine, except the stubborn#9. How can I do a quick fix to at least start my car and take it ti the shop. Thanks.
My issue was the company i bought the car from shut off the car from there location because I was late on a payment. I figured that out after trying all these things. I want to thank you all for the information i learned a lot here!
Hey Mike. What was the problem there? Oh starter right... while u argue with mechanics who fix these problems every day.. Jeebus ... you people don't ask if you don't wanna know. And Mike u should stop assuming things about my life, career or trades certificates. Your ego is getting in the way. Our customer got caught in the middle. Oh and I was right once again. And that's all that matters.
Mike says the starter has nothing to do with it. Bahahaha. Well guess u got your answer bud. Quick question. When the fuse in your house hold wiring panel keeps blowing? Do u find the reason? Or do u stick a penny under the fuse? Just wanna see if you'd jeopardize your families lives for the cheap easy temporary cause more problems fix. That isn't really a fix.
Oh and Mike u nvr showed me where I error ed ... please do? Tell me that watts isn't a measurement of power consumption. Tell me that watts doest egaul voltage times amperage. ? Tell me that resistance doesn't cause voltage drops and consequently also causes amperage to climb and compensate. ? Oh wait u can't because those are all true statements. God did u ar
Pat the knucklehead is back.....are you onto your 3 phase Crap again?....finish your AA program....then get a tool in your hand..
I was aiming my sights towards that trunk light also....Im gonna give that a shot myself. But I'll be driving along and all of a sudden my 97 CIRRUS 2.5 just loses power and all lights dim and car stahls out. I've had 6 stratus/s, Intrepids, and so on but never have i had this electrical bullshit. Also if the radio and dome, power locks don't work and just keeps blowing the radio fuse pull the smaller of the two plugs off the back of the ac/heater module because there is a short on the motherboard for the back lights for the heater controls. Leave the main bigger on just pull the smaller one and put ur fuse in and all will work again. but still have this issue of it dying/draining power issue. OPLE...HERE IS THE FIX FOR THE RADIO AND STUFF.....'
Tim. Pull your positive cable off your battery connect a multimeter in line . So one terminal to the positive battery post and one to your positive battery cable while disconnected . Be sure your set to amps. With your ignition off how many amps do u read? Then put your key in the run position how many amps?
I'm a mechanic. You are
And Mike. Your the knuckle head. Your ignorant and yet arogant two very bad mixes. Like a politician. Maybe u should stick to politics and leave the electical and car related problems to the mechanics.
well that issue worked itself out some how...now another fkn issue arose... I was selling the p.o.s. and just before the girl gets down to Minneapolis from up north i go to start the car and BAMM...the security kicks on, horn honking...lights blinking, car runs for 4 secs and shuts off!! That sale is gone. I have tried everything from unhooking thte battery to every keyhole in the car 18 x's and unpluggin the computer bs. I used a different key (i have 3 for this car)to start it that day cuz i didnt see the one i used all the time and I've tried all the fricken keys, even rain dance. NOTHING. I want this car gone...anyone know how to bypass the Security System on the 97 Cirrus? And I know transponders didn't come out til 98 and the key fob i got with the car ain't no help either. Chrysler says bring it in ..... hhhahha. Not a chance. How do I do that idiot when it don't stay running..bright lad down there. Anyone got a clue? Let me know. Or I'lll just go get a ECM at the boneyard.
put your key in the door lock and unlock 3 times in order. this should relay code to ecm ad bcms that the correct key was used. then trigger your ignition to run. cycle the key 3 times pause inbetween do not start the car till the fourth time. if this wont work u need a flash done.
I will try it tomorrow or later this week. I will let you know how it works out. Thank you.
My 97 sebring has bee kinda doing thr same thing but i took to to the shop at my college (just recently enrolled into an automotive program) and my problem is in the ignition switch..the starter is fine fuses are fine none blow..etc etc..anyways long story short ...I need to know what all is required for the installation of either a remote start system or push to start system in a 1997 sebring coupe lxi. I am pretty sure a transponder bypass module is needed but nowhere i search or call has been able to tell me a straight answer. Help please??
Hello I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible and its no click no crack changed toe battery and the starter but the mechanic said it won't catch fire whatever that means...my car has been i and outod shops for almost 2 years and its getting aggrevating. I tried to junk it but I'll only get 150$ for it. The mechanic now says the starter needs to be rewired please please help me
My 2000 chrysler sebring coupe white convertible. Car will start right up with a jump. Then the car alarm goes wild making loud alarm noise. When i press thy panic button on my keychain thy sound will change but will not turn off. We pullex a fuse now thy alarm is slient but still on and a redlight stays on dashboard. Now thy horn is slient. Thy car cranks up with a jump. After you turn the car off, very little power. Im thinking i need a new alarm key replacementand a new battery. My radio will not turn on. And the car is burning oil and smoking. The oil level is fine? .....any ideals what might be going on?
Replacing Fuse#8 worked like a charm for my 1999 Sebring JXI convertible. Symptoms: Would not start, battery had sufficient charge and CCA, all other electronic components functioned.
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