My car stopped running in the middle of driving, any ideas
timing chain stretched until the poor tensioner couldn't give any more...like a can of marbles let go...or jumped a tooth...look for a timing chain out of position....you did not say which engine otherwise would post a rebuild kit including new hydraulic tensioner with wear shoe and fresh chain~
If the timing chain is the problem you would have all kinds of racket associated with it. Can you give more details. and yes what motor the vehicle has would help also
Stay with the basics first: Fire Triangle - Fuel, heat, oxygen. Is there sufficient fuel pressure and delivery (fuel pump, inertia switch, filter)? Are the Spark Plugs firing (computer control, codes, sensors)? Can the engine get air in and out (filters, compression, plugged catalytic converter)? These should be the first steps is figuring out what's going on (or NOT going on). Start there.
ThAnkyou Tracy, , best u can tell fuel is pumping, air filters brand new and seems ok, spark plugs have fire, intrigued by the computer and anti-theft device, after the fact, post checking all the other basics, theft warning light stared to flash intermittently and was no longer able to lock/unlock doors thru the key alarm... Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
Uh oh! The THEFT light flashing is a passive system that shuts off the fuel pump (cranks but won't start or starts and dies). Does your key have a chip in it? You might try another (chipped) key if it does. You may need to hook up scan tool to see what is going on with the theft deterrent system.
Everything has power, but still won't crank
everything has power but it still wont crank even with a jump
Why my ford explorer 2006 xlt.stop when I driving. Star right a way but is dangerous in the express way.any though
I read about this on the forum because my 2004 ford explorer was shutting off on me. after replacing the fuel pump, and Tune-up it when I decided to do some research. Many people have this problem and not even the ford dealers know how to fix it. People spend thousands of dollars due to this issue. The guy that I used as a resource has a 2003 ford expedition and wanted to share the repair with you, first of all for the safety of our families, and the cost of everything the mechanics think is wrong (even most ford mechanics are not aware of this fix) I have been lucky and never did the coil packs, fuel pump and new throttle body and valve. I did waste money on the camshaft sensor and IAC control valve; I did keep the old one so I have a back up if I need it in the future. I didnt try the high octane fuel fix because I heard of this year throwing spark plugs which are big bucks to repair. Putting on this part and looking at the old one makes me think I didnt even need a new one, but didnt know what to expect when I bought it. The bracket connects the alternator to the positive terminal on your battery. If you start at the battery + terminal it has 2 red wires coming out of it. They are both usually red and about the same thickness. One of them goes into a long black rectangle clip that says fusable Link or something like that. Then comes out the other side and goes to the alternator. Past the fusable link box there will be 2 wires that split off of this wire. If you are in front of the truck one wire runs towards you and is pretty short. It plugs into another wire. The second wire is longer and it runs away from you THIS IS the wire you need to follow. It runs back towards the battery into a plug under it. Follow this wire from where it comes off of the big wire. You will find it resting on a silver/aluminum tube (its an AC pipe) Flip the wire over where it is touching this pipe, you will find the wire is rubbed down to the bare metal!!! It is randomly shorting out your engine and you will STALL. If I didnt by the part I would try to tape it up, tape the pipe it rests on as well or get some foam tubing for the pipe, if the wires are too worn, looks like you could always use a wire nut. You Are WELCOME, he just saved us a lot of money. The second issue that my 2004 had was with the computer. And this other source talked about this because it can also cause the engine to shut off.. Turns out there is a group of wires near the rear and they were supposed to be suspended in some sort of harness and never were, so over time, the plastic coating rubbed off and caused at least one wire to ground out, which caused the plug near the computer to overheat and slide out of its socket, causing the engine to shut off. Once it cooled, the motor would start again. I have also replaced the following: the visors, interior overhead console, the plastic brackets that hold the rear glass door, and battery (3x). The crack in the back window frame is still there as well as Engine light that is not going away. Overall, my truck is awesome and I will ride it until it dies. I have about 250K miles on my truck and provide regular maintenance such as every 5K oil change, new tires every 2-3 years, valve cover gasket once
one more thing that occurs while you are driving on some fords is that the cruise control is defective and when turned on the truck will immediately shut off. The fix to this can be very very expensive, however, a quick fix is to turn the overdrive off in order to operate the cruise control and the truck will not shut off. I will post updates once my truck is evaluated by my mechanic for the wire that connects to the battery that maybe rubbed to the core. I hope this helps. Rose
just tried the fuel relay. instead of spending approximately $20 in a new one, I switched the A/c relay with the Fuel relay to test it. so far, my truck is not stalling when I stop at a red light. since my truck is only shutting off on me once a week, I am going to keep it like this for about three weeks. If the A/c relay works and my truck doesn't shut off at all, then it's time to spend the $20 for the new fuel relay. Cheap way of testing without spending more money.
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