1979 toyota corona not starting


Asked by Jul 03, 2014 at 06:15 PM about the 1979 Toyota Corona

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Bought this car a week ago 79,000 original miles. Got it home...went to drive it no start, sprayed starting fluid in carb and started right up. 4 more times not start after driving somewhere n parking it, but eventually it started. Today drove it 3 miles parked for an hour tried to start..no start. Tried starting fluid no start...acts like it's not getting spark...what do I do now...I'm 17 and this is my first car...ugh getting frustrated

8 Answers


Sounds like you have a two fold problem going on. Since it would start with the starting fluid it sounds like the float bowl in the carburetor is leaking down. Or you're not using the proper procedure to start it. On a carburetor engine you must depress and hold the accelerator pedal about 1/ 4 of it's travel while starting the engine warm or hot. When cold, depress the accelerator pedal to the floor ONCE and with your foot off the accelerator pedal start it up. Do NOT pump the pedal!! This will flood out the engine and eventually foul the spark plugs. I suspect that the spark plugs, at this point are gas fouled and that's why it won't start at all now. Carburetor engines are not like modern fuel injected ones. The procedures I've outlined above must be followed for easy proper starting of your engine. HTH. -Jim

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

I will go to it in an hour and try this method to start...if that doesn't work..do you have another suggestion as to what might be going on?

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

If the spark plugs are badly gasoline fouled they'll need to be cleaned or replaced. If the spark plugs are ok (not wet) make sure you're getting spark. Sometimes an ignition coil will break down when hot and you'll lose spark. Another possibility is, if you have a mechanical fuel pump and the car has been sitting, the rubber diaphragm inside the fuel pump may have ruptured. So you'd need a new fuel pump. To check for fuel at the carburetor remove the fuel line at the carburetor. Hold the fuel line in a cup that's not Styrofoam and have someone crank the engine. Fuel should squirt out. If not, change the fuel pump and fuel filter. HTH. -Jim

check your fluids and gas. does it actually have gas in it? is it good gas or old gas? Smell your oil dipstick. Does it smell a lot like fuel? that would be a sign of no spark. Check your fuses. Check plug wires to ensure they are connected securely at both ends and do not show any obvious damage. Take off distributor cap without removing wires. Look inside for any obvious damage or corrosion to the inside/outside of the cap and the rotor. Is it moist inside the cap? be sure the vent on the cap is not plugged. If dampness is a possibility, spray down the cap and wires with WD-40. it will draw water out. mAKE SURE YOUR BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED.

1 of 1 people found this helpful.

The procedure for starting it has helped quite a bit. thanks


You're welcome. Glad to help. Thanks for letting us know! -Jim


Still frustrated...It has had starting issues a couple of times since. Once my friend's Dad just ran a hose over the radiator because he said it felt hot and it started right up. Another time I drove it across town (15 mins), shopped for 20 mins and it wouldn't start until the next morning. Could this be vapor lock? I have heard this term used, but am unsure what it means? My Grandpa thinks I need a new thermostat...?


Could be vapor lock. What vapor lock means is when the gasoline in the fuel line gets too hot and evaporates before it reaches the carburetor. Check for proper routing of the gas lines. Make sure they're not too close to the hot exhaust manifold. Also check the heat riser for proper operation. The heat riser is a "flap" that closes when the engine is cold to direct hot exhaust gasses around the base of the carburetor. This is to prevent carburetor icing in cool damp weather. Carburetor icing causes stalling and poor idle in cool/ cold damp weather. Also check the thermostaticly controlled air cleaner.Look in the snorkel and make sure the damper door inside isn't stuck up. In the up position heated air is pulled into the air cleaner. Another way of preventing carburetor icing. The air coming into the carburetor should be about 100°F under all conditions. You can actually check this using an ordinarytthermometer. HTH. -Jim

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