I have a 78 ford ranchero 500survivor series. What amp of glass fuse do I need?125 or 250? ....and is that for my breaks? I don't have a diagram. Thank you.

Asked by Mar 20, 2015 at 02:07 AM about the 1978 Ford Ranchero

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

4 Answers


Use automotive fuses.... not fuses for audiovisual. Public libraries are the best source for those diagrams. The electrical and troubleshooting manuals came out around then but unsure if before 1980. Helm publications had the rights back in those days, and dealers donated many old literatures to libraries. Hemmings motor news is a good place to find a book dealer for your own copies of the set for that car. You should use a 12v test light and be sure all the fuses are good on both sides with the circuit(s) enabled. So, what fuse was in there? 10A, 15A or 20 ? the 5A is usually for instrument lites. And what part of your brakes has a concern anyway?

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Just the lights themselves. I got running lights, changed all the bulbs and nothing. I figure its a fuse.


Click the hi beam switch on/off and see if they reset. Your main switch has a breaker. You may want to remove the switch and inspect. Y'kno you press the release on the switch body and remove the push/pull. then remove the studnut from the instrument panel. pull the switch out of the panel up from behind. inspect the connector, and the switch for water entry or meltdown. If you have a resistance on your circuit(s) that heats it up, it can fry the pins or prongs on the switch. corrosion present means need new switch and wire ends. but diagnosis must continue for water entry or circuit resistance...........I dont suppose you have both headlight bulbs out at the same time. they like to lose one and then the other within a month where I live. It's raining 70% of the time here, all year. Not good for a ranchero. We used to remove the taillights and watch the water pour out on the shop floor at the ford garage.

Best Answer Mark helpful

I should mention the fuse link for headlights is powered at the starter relay by the battery. Supposed to be available for safety at all times, then if it has a problem, the breaker trips in the switch and resets when it cools. When you start smelling smoke or seeing smoke, you go see your Ford technician. He can figure it out in a minute or less, but unfortunately he has to make his own parts and then if it takes any labor, they charge the mechanic. hahaha

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