how to remove a stuck left rear brake drum
this vehicle has been setting up for many years. trying to move to an other place for
repairs. wheel will not turn.it seems drum is seased to thr shoe. have soaked with liquid
wrench, don't think ajuster is moving eather.
Some older models you can stick a small screw driver in back side plate and turn the adjuster to minimum. Install bolts into threaded holes on front of drum. (Most are threaded for 1/4 inch bolts I believe) Tighten bolts into drum they should push agains lug stud plate and force drum off. Tape side of drum with hammer as tightening the push bolts in this should break it free. Might even want to jack up both rear wheels and turn opposite wheel (car in neutral) this will cause axle to turn braking the pads loose from the drum. Hope this helps
I understand that the star adjuster isn't moving, even if it did move to allow you to back it all the way off, this would be of little help because the shoes are locked up to the inner surface of the drums. The rear drums on your 66 don't have any holes in them on the front face, threaded or otherwise, so "Pushing" the drum from the axle isn't an option for you. Unfortunately, (without you knowing better) you sprayed liquid wrench inside thinking this may help. What this did was made the situation a little worse. The friction material of the shoes simply absorbed the liquid (that WON'T evaporate) and it caused the material to EXPAND...Therefore making the shoes have a tighter fit to the drums than they had before. This isn't the end of the world... the drums can still be removed, but a little extra work is involved. It's important to note that ALL but ONE component of your rear brakes is "Expendable".... meaning that ALL parts can and should be replaced anyway. The ONLY pieces that you should take great care not to damage are the backing plates. For your application (66 Ranchero), the backing plates are specific to 10" X 2" Rear brakes, these aren't easy to come by if you damage them. I suggest that you (somewhat carefully) destroy the drums to remove them. A quick and easy way to do this is to just use a 4" cutoff wheel in a hand grinder, Cut through the drum all the way around the outside Dia. near the outer (front) edge of the drum. Then, use a hammer to tap off the front piece, then a pry tool to pry the shoes from the remainder of the drum still attached. With the front face of the drum removed from the axle face and wheel studs, you will have room to insert a pry tool to make the rest of the drum come off.....Or, you could just leave the outer part on until you move the car, the axle will surely turn now that the front face of the drum is separated from the outer part. In hindsight... If the liquid wrench was never applied, drum removal would be much easier. It would only require heating the drum with a handheld portable torch (I prefer Mapp Gas), and then after cooling off completely tapping lightly with a hammer. I've removed the WORST of frozen up drums this way. BUT, I wouldn't suggest heating anything with a torch at this point, the flash point of the liquid wrench is surely less than the heat from a torch. A spark from grinding should not ignite the liquid wrench. Good Luck.
Another way to get a stuck drum off is to go to the back side of the Backing Plate and grind the heads of the Spring Pin Retainers off with a die grinder. The pins of course, look similar to a framing nail with the "head" on the outside of the backing plate. Care should be taken to not damage the backing plate, but once the heads of the retaining pins have all been ground off, the drum, shoes and a few other connected pieces can be pulled off all at once.
This is the position I am in also, l have been doing this many years. Looking at the problem decided to use cutoff tool or cut pins. I've been working on cars many years never had this problem, at least you confirm my solution Thank you.
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