Opel corsa 1.4 cuts out now and then please help

Asked by Apr 05, 2014 at 08:09 AM about the 2001 Opel Corsa

Question type: Maintenance & Repair

Hi my opel corsa 1.4 fuel injection
have some problems. The canbelt
broke and I replaced it aswell as
valves , rockers , tensioner pully,
sceamed the head ext.  After doing it
all the car some times cut out and lose
power after a while it would get right
but then backfires. What can be wrong
is it the computer box cause of
standing without power for 3 days
while I was working on the car or is it
the petrol pump. Please help me!!!

12 Answers


First replace your fuel filter.Then give your entire throttle body a good cleaning. If no change, test your fuel pressure. You may have a bad fuel pressure regulator. Do you smell a strong fuel odor under the hood? You may have a leaky injector. Could be numerous things. Throttle position sensor could also be faulty. If the car had no issues prior to you doing the engine work, carefully inspect all of you vacuum hoses to make sure that they were all hooked back up properly. You may have overlooked something simple.

9 out of 9 people think this is helpful.

Hi I am a lady owner had the same problem took it for a diagnostic test and revealed that I had to change my Throttlebody positioning sensor and valve sensor did all that and my problems is a blast from the past. Driving my car as per normal now..... Goodluck guys and go for the test its worth it,

8 out of 8 people think this is helpful.

Where is that valve sensor located cos it's a similar problem I have now for a month

13 out of 13 people think this is helpful.

Ambros, what year is your Opel?

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Good Morning, I have a Corsa Lite 1.3 1998 I'm also having a problem where my car backires and loses power, I have replaced the fuel pump, plugs, fuel filter, relay, as well as plug leeds and also cleaned the throttle body but still the same problem, Please help

2 out of 2 people think this is helpful.

TimmyM, is your check engine light on? If so, have you had the error codes read? You have already replaced most of the usual suspect parts. Check these other possibilities: Vacuum leaks (especially the large intake hose that feeds the throttle body), clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, check for exhaust leaks, (press hand over exhaust pipe and listen for any hiss noises), check fuel pressure with a gauge. Low pressure will cause a backfire. Post back with results.....good luck!


Thank you, Ive just bought a new idle sensor, there is a small hole on the exhaust the size of a screw


Keep us posted to let us know if the idle sensor and the exhaust repair has fixed the issue. Good luck!

1 out of 1 people think this is helpful.

Hi Ree its me Amien I have carsa lite that give me problem - it start by 30 sec then it cut what the problem to solve it thanks bra.


Hummer_1378, my guess would be a bad senor or bad fuel pump. If you remove gas cap and put your ear to the hole, have someone turn the key to ACCESSORY and see if you can hear the fuel pump hum. If no hum, you may have a bad fuel pump or faulty relay. A bad ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor can cause too much or too little fuel to be added when the engine is cold. The ECT is a cheap part and easy to replace. Post back with results.......good luck!

Hi Reelin68. I have a corsa lite 1997 130i. Replaced injectors, fuel filter, dropped a valve and replaced all 8. I have a new idle control valve, new throttle body. But my plugs are getting wet and its pitch black. Computer box is fine have a new exhaust on too. Can you help


Lewis- Here is a short article I found: Wet spark plugs means the spark plugs are not firing. The spark plugs are coated with unburned gasoline, which allows the ignition voltage to short circuit to ground instead of jumping across the electrode gap normally. Wet fouled spark plugs can be caused by flooding the engine when attempting to start a cold engine. This was a common problem on older carburated engines and could be caused by pumping the accelerator pedal excessively, a choke that was sticking shut, or internal carburetor problems such as a bad float or leaky inlet valve that allowed too much fuel into the engine. With fuel injected engines, flooding is seldom a problem unless one or more fuel injectors are leaking, there is excessive fuel pressure, a cold start injector valve is stuck on, or the EVAP system purge valve is stuck open allowing fuel vapors from the charcoal canister to be sucked into the engine. Pumping the accelerator pedal on a fuel injected engine does nothing, but holding the pedal all the way to the floor will usually cause the engine management system to go into the "floor clear" mode while the engine is cranking. This temporarily cuts off the fuel supply to the engine so it will pull in more air and hopefully help dry the wet spark plugs. Ignition problems can also cause wet spark plugs. If the spark plug wires or ignition coil(s) are bad, the plugs won't fire the air/fuel mixture. On engines with individual coil-over-plug ignition systems, arcing between the coil boot that fits down over the spark plug can short the spark to ground and cause misfiring and wet spark plugs. A bad crankshaft position sensor that is not generating an ignition pulse signal can also prevent the spark plugs from firing. The fix for wet spark plugs (assuming there are no underlying ignition coil, plug wire or crank sensor problems) if often just to wait and try starting the engine again later. Spraying some starting fluid (ether) into the throttle body and cranking the engine may get the fire going and dry the plugs. The spark plugs can also be removed and air dried, but that's a pain on many modern engines. I know you have replaced many of the usual suspects. You never mentioned if the car will actually start and run. Or is it just cranking over forever and never firing up? Have you checked for a nice strong spark yet? I guess it would be easier to tell me what exactly you have tested for. I know you have replaced many parts and nothing has made a difference.

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