My brakes lights don't work after installing new proportioning valve in my Ford 63 Galaxie
Older Fords are know to break the wires right at the switch connector, they may not look broken so test for power in and out of the switch. Also have seen a few turn signal switches cause this.
Power in is ok and switch is good but have removed switch to find no fluid there and can see valve post across hole any suggestions.
the right light do's not work and the bulb is good and the wire's are good think it is in the steering weal they told me the two brushes might be wrong way round
I had the same problem and fixed it. I will try to explain how to check it and the solution I found. On my 63 Galaxie, it uses a pressure switch, under the hood, on the Master Cylinder. (Most newer cars have the switch on the brake pedal inside the car, not this). I narrowed the problem by1st: Check to see if you have running lights and turn signals. I did have both, which indicated the bulbs were not the problem. Next, you will find two wires going to the pressure switch on the master cylinder. GENTLY remove both wires, you will find posts the fit on. Clean these well. Next, get a jumper wire. Stick the jumper wire in both ends of the two wires you just removed. This will make a circuit (As if the pressure switch was activated). Now check your rear brake lights. You do not have to have the brake pedal pushed or key on. If you brake lights now work, I would say replace the pressure switch. Advance Auto had it in stock!!!! But.....that still wasn't my problem. SO....on the firewall, driver's side, above the master cylinder, you will find two wiring harness plugs. Once again GENTLY wiggle these until they come unplugged. I sprayed PB Blaster and let the sit a few minutes. came right off. I bet you it will be corroded. When I turn the top plug apart, one of the bullet (male connecters) was broken from corrosion. BINGO!!!! I was able to spray PB Blaster in the plug on the firewall where the male connector still inside. After a few minutes, I took a screw, screwed it into the broken connector and was able to pull it out. Next, I cut the wire from the plug. Then I drilled clear through the plug where the broken connector was. I was able to push my wire through the plug I drill, then I was able to put a new bullet (Male) connector on it. I cut the plastic blue shield off of it 1st because it will be inside the plug. I sprayed both plugs to get the corrosion off, then I plugged in the bottom plug. Next I plugged in the new wire I just made, then pushed the plug over the top, plugging in the rest of the wires with the top plug. Next, I jumped the two wires back at the master cylinder. SCORE.....brake lights. I removed the jumper wires, re attached the two wires to the pressure switch, Works like a charm. Bonus....The horn now works!!!!!!!!
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