check engine light with flashing cruise control light
Checked codes at Auto Zone: catalyst efficiency low-bank 1 probably cause: CC failure possibly due to: (1) engine misfire or running condition (2) large vacuum leak (3) engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide, seals, piston rings.
Less than 52K mis -- shouldn't be CC, right? Likeliest cause? A mechanic said they'd have to due a smoke test, service meter, and induction test (for $70 each). Also said there are 3 CCs on the Forester. Any suggestions would be welcome.
I found an answer on another post. This seems to be an ongoing problem for the Forester. People have had lots of work done at Subaru without fixing the issue. I'm going to try to following suggestion: plug in MAF sensor after replacing air filter with an after market. Unplug battery for 1/2 hour. If that doesn't work, I'll try replacing the oxygen sensor and resetting the computer.
Two foresters 06 and 08, both do this periodically, engine and check cruise control lights. Dealer can find nothing, they stay on for awhile then go out after a couple weeks. I ignore it now. Nothing has happened to the cars since. The 06 did it within a year of buying the car, the 08 started within about the same time period.
2005 forester, just recently had blinking cruise, solid lit CEL, going into dealership this week, posts were extremely helpful to a single, 62 year old female, THANKS...will post outcome, and if not guaranteed to resolve issue, will take advice and do nothing...when I did call dealership, they did say "no worry" if CEL is solid and not blinking as if they are quite familiar with this sort of problem...will post at later date..Diana
My 2007 Forester had CEL come on with blinking cruise (and cruise dosn't work either) about 35 miles after i filled up at a non-mainstream gas station. I turned to the owners manual and i guess the Forester can be picky. The manual (see 7-2 in 2007 owners manual) states that some gas stations put an "...octane-enhancing additive called MMT (Methylcyclopentadienyl Manganese Tricarbonyl). If you use such fuels, your emission control system performance may deteriorate and the CHECK ENGINE warning light/Malfunction indicator lamp may turn on." That being said, i currently have a FULL tank of crappy gas...does any have a recommendation of what kind of additive i should put in to make the gas better.
not sure if this will help anyone but our 2007 2.5 turbo had the blinking cruise light and engine light on. we have found out its the fuel cap, it has a small sensor on it, and when released to put fuel in and replaced it can set the lights off up to a day later?? yes the forester can be picky
I had the same issue with my 07. $5200 later it was rectified. Bent valves, compression leak.... The list went on. apparently its a know fault with is model. Anyone else in the same boat??
Bent valves? That really only occurs if the timing skips, and is not common at all.
Glad to report that the solid check engine and the blinking cruise lights shut off this morning. Three days of anxiety over! Thanks for this forum and the above answers. Undoubtedly saved me hundreds of dollars. The dealers here in South Jersey just love to take us for a ride.
jmarie220, how? how did it turn off? it bugs me for months now, the computer has allegedly detected secondary air pump error. when replaced, it was off for some 200 km, then went on again. (same thing - cruise blinking , CEL constantly lit). i do have gas built in on my 2.0 2006 forester, though, with oil droppers (maybe it is another expression, but lubricating the valves)
I have a 2006 Forrester L L Bean model and the check engine light went on causing the cruise to blink. Young Subaru charged me for hundreds of dollars for DX could nt fix it, after $900.00 worth of work, problem still persists. Now my headlights and tail lights stay on even when the car is off....frustrated. Have to disconnect battery to turn them off, anyone have any ideas?
Did you check the parking light on top of your steering column?
I was cleaning around that area yesterday, I didn't realize there was a switch there. I went out connected the battery and checked the switch and fixed the problem. I don't know why you would use them, I never have cos I didn't know I had them. I'm not blonde I'm a red head......lol. THANK YOU all who helped me with this question you were all helpful!
No problem, that's a rite of passage for every new Subaru owner.
I too had the Check Engine Light/Cruise Control flashing problem happen on my 2009 Forester. My yellow traction control light (squiggly tire marks behind car) also comes on. I went to a tiny garage in east Tennessee and they guy did a diagnostic and said that it is caused when you haven't had an oil/filter change in over 7000 miles or so (he checked a "code" database to find out). He changed my oil and reset the computer. All better. Then 7000 miles later (I drive a lot and sometimes miss my oil changes), the same thing happened. Got the oil changed again and reset the computer, fixed again! Happened a third time and again got it fixed, but this time they forgot to reset the computer. Lights came back on quickly, but I went back and they reset the computer and all has been fine. Since I've had my oil changed regularly, no repeats of the problem.
Ii has to be something with the transmission or front differential fluid from what I can tell. I've had it happen many times, and it has gone away on its own in some cases, but other times, the "fix' was to add fluid. The first time it happened, I had parked my car sideways on a steep hill for a couple weeks. Shortly after leaving, the car bucked and heaved if I accelerated too much, and those lights came on. Since then, I have had it happen after long periods without any problem when I hit the accelerator hard for whatever reason. My only remaining questions are (1) is it the transmission fluid or differential, and (2) why is it getting "low"?
My 2008 just stopped running 1 month ago. It continually had these lights come on when driving over 100 miles at a time on the interstate. Then it would jerk when accelerating. When it died, it jerked and just lost power. For a 2008 it should have lasted much longer and was regular maintained.
I don't think there's an easy answer. My 2009 Forester does this intermittently (CEL, blinking CC, TCL stays on). The number of possibilities listed in this forum tells me there's a lot of things that could be involved, but no single consistent finding. I've maintained the vehicle properly & it runs fine; I've quit worrying about it.
A 10mm wrench, undo negative battery terminal. Wait 5 min. Reconnect, turn switch to run, but do not start. Wait about a minute while fuel injection brings pressure back on line. Start car. May have to crank it a bit. Reset radio and cruise on. Repeat as necessary.
OK.. one more time.. I found that I had overfilled both the transmission and front differential. I brought both back to the right level and still had the idiot lights come back on. FINALLY, it occurred to me that I haven't changed the oil filter in a while, and changed that. BINGO! Lights out!!
I have a 2005 Subaru Impreza, Solid CEL and blinking CC light, cruise does not work. I've had the oil changed regularly. 143K. AutoZone gave me an error code of #2937. It's running just fine. I change the spark plugs. They needed changing anyways. No change. Dash light still on. Will unhook battery and see what happens - for now - black electrical tape covers annoying lights.
The code 2937 is not a valid code, I would have them check it again. A word of warning on the check engine light: that same light is used for minor as well as major issues. If you get used to ignoring it and a major issue comes up, you won't catch it in time and can do damage to the engine. Much like the poster several posts up who had a check engine light and then the car simply "stopped running." The light is triggered for a reason.
But Jeff, it says right on the little ticket they handed me - #2937. And it says OEM number to Po420. Is that the correct code? It also says - Catlyst efficiency below threshold bank 1, prob cause rich a/f ratio, ignition system malfunction, faulty catalytic converter. Thank you for the help and advice.
My 2007 Forester CE light turned on for a third time in a year a few weeks ago. I checked the code with a device I purchased from Amazon. Turns out it was "engine misfire." Took it to a reliable local mechanic; oil was leaking into one of the cylinders. They couldn't get the valve cover off (?), and they now have to approach the problem from underneath. I'm at $748 and counting, but it will probably be near $900 before they are done. Car only has 77K miles on it...bummer. Can bad gas start this cascade?
I get in on a acceleration up a tight on ramp - not sure if its the incline or hard turn with the acceleration. It'll turn off after 3 starts w/o doing it again. Always worth checking your oil level and for any loose tubes, ducts, wires when you get lights on.
From what I understand, this is common with Foresters, 2005 on. The first time this happened I panicked! Had local mechanic change oil, since it was about 1000 miles overdue, which made sense. Problem solved. Three days later CEL solid, and CC flashing light returned. I returned to local mechanic, and he reset. He told me if this happens again, I have to take it to the Subaru dealer, to fix. He said my engine was in good running shape, and drivability was also fine. The reason is, only a Subaru dealer can communicate with main console, to find the source of the problem. Since my Subaru dealer "rips me off", every time I take my car in, I will take my chances if the problem re occurs. If the CEL light goes from solid to blinking, then you really have a problem. Stay Tuned!
My 07 Outback has 136K miles on it. For the past year the cc light starts flashing, and CEL illuminates intermittently. Except for 1 time when this ouccured when accellerating from a stop, the problem consistently occurs when travelling at hwy speed and while using cruise control. However, it doesn't happen every time I use the cruise control. The dealer read the code and then replaced the mass air flow sensor. That didn't work, so they replaced the same sensor again. I got tired of paying for the same repair so now I just carry a wrench with me to disconnect the battery terminal to reset the code. This happens about once a month for the year. There does not seem to be amy other performance problems with the car. Any suggestions?
2006 LLBean Forester with 75k, properly maintained. My CEL is solid, CC flashing for 5 days. Car runs great. The dealer wanted 400 to replace the MAF and I walked away. Reading up on it and going to see this fixes itself over time. I was ALSO told at my last oil change a few months back that both head gaskets were starting to leak and I needed to replace at a cost of $1600. Again, this car drives fine. No misfires, obvious leaks, or spikes in temp. I'm just keeping an eye on the car and my wallet. I might disconnect the battery and see if the lights return. Great thread, thank you!
In reading above answers, I have concluded there is no common denominator that causes CEL solid/CC blinking. Looks like even Subaru dealers don't have definite answer. I, like I think some here, am afraid to take my 2005 forester back to the dealer's service department. They will charge me a lot of money, and it only might, fix the problem? We all have paid good money for our Subaru's, and they are good cars, but should not have to deal with a glitch like this! We should not have to be traveling with wrenches to dis connect our batteries, at least not for the $$$ we paid. Unfortunately, I am pessimistic, that Subaru, would do much to fix this glitch, but sometimes going to the top works. See below. Subaru of America Inc. has named Tomomi Nakamura as CEO effective April 1, taking over from Takeshi Tachimori. Tachimori will return to Japan, where he will be responsible for global sales, including those in the United States, for Subaru's parent company, Fuji Heavy Industries. Subaru of America names Nakamura CEO - Automotive News www.autonews.com/.../subaru-of-america-names-nakamu... Automotive News
It appears to happen when the oil gets low. It happened again to my 2009 forester and the mechanic said I was low on oil. He reset the computer and changed the oil. All better. I have 114K and minor head gasket leaks that don't affect compression. I spent $35 on an oil change and now I'm back in business.
OK... now some time has passed since I *simply* changed oil filters, and I have had no more problems So THAT was the answer - at least for my car. I suspect that there are other things that could cause this, but a clogged, dirty, or poorly designed oil filter that impedes oil flow might be the ridiculously simple cause for most of us. The oil pressure must be monitored after the oil filter, and if its too low, on come the lights. CERTAINLY it is such an easy and cheap fix that everyone should try it before spending hundred$ at some shop for some "repair" that does no good at all.
I had the same problem, I unplugged the battery for about 20 minutes, then plugged it back, then opened the fuel cap and closed it. Started the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes (the CEL and CC lights were still on), then switched of the engine and switched it on and the problem has disappeared. When opening the fuel cap, it looked like it had not been tightened properly, so I dont know which worked, that is, unplugging the battery or opening and closing the fuel cap.
Subaru Forester 2007. I didn't have the lights "problem" UNTIL I changed my oil today, and, as always, a brand new oil filter. It is topped off properly, full. However, maybe I did too MUCH maintenance? I also changed the air filter, transmission fluid, and its filter. Have I taxed the system too heavily? Since reading some of the above comments (THANK YOU ALL! I came here FIRST!), I have gone back and checked, double-checked, all fluid levels, and re-seated the housing for the air filter. And lastly checked the gas cap. I also filled from about 1/4 tank, to full, with premium gas. (I do that on every oil change as well) I have never seen the light combo as mentioned in previous posts. I, too, have the flashing CC light and steady CEL. I now have the battery unplugged, and will leave it so about a half hour from what I have read. I will comment again about the end result.
(Well, I was merely going to append my previous comment, but that function is not present.) I waited the 30 minutes, unscrewed the gas cap, re-seated it firmly, turned the ignition key to ACC, but did not start the care. Waited about a minute (the flashing CC light was gone, but the steady CEL remained) (interesting, the radio's display flashed "SYSTEM CHECK" non-stop...), then turned the key and started the car. All lights were gone/normal display! Again, thank you for all the helpful comments. Perhaps after doing my own oil changes, I will remove the negative battery terminal cable for the duration. I'll check back in about 4,000 miles. ;) Or comment if it pops up sooner.
Same is happening to our 06 Subaru Forester - flashing CC and solid CEL. Our car manual indicates that its a sign the CC has been deactivated... that all. That's why the car still runs fine and no specific fault can be identified. You can inactivate the cruise control by pushing the CC on button or lever as you turn the engine on. Apparently you can reactivate it by turning off and doing the same again. This has worked for me a couple of times - but not now. It won't do it. The car manual is a little vague about this - but perhaps Aannddrreeww's method is the 'key' (pun intended!). Has anyone experience a situation where, by ignoring the flashing CC and solid CEL that the car has suddenly stopped working, failed to start a all, shuddered to a halt in the middle of the freeway or anything dramatic....? If not - then it may not have anything to do with oil, fuel or air at all. The car manual also says that the CEL should be flashing before you panic. Has anyone check the fuses for the CC system??
We did as some here advised..Disconnected neg battery terminal 20 min;reconnected battery then took off gas cap and 're closed it thoroughly(apparently if cap is not on properly it can trigger these lights) then reconnected battery put key in ignition turn key to " first"position but don't turn car on for a few minutes. Then turn car on.We Almost started crying when the cell and cc lights went off! THE FIRST TIME SOMEONE'S ADVICE worked!Good luck!
This works! I still can't believe it! Thank you EVERYONE!
the cruise light flashes because the cruise doesn't work when the check engine light is on. This started happening to us after hitting the front bumper lightly into another vehicle. Turns out the outside air sensor is very sensitive to a bump and needed replaced. disconnecting the battery terminal will turn off the light temporarily but it will come back until the issue causing the the ce light is rectified.
It's great to see so many people fixing this without spending crazy $$$$. My CC/CEL lights are still on after at least 5 weeks. Disconnecting the battery (plus gas cap off and on tightly) didn't work. Nor did fiddling with the CC switches on the dash. Next step is replacing the air filter. And if that fails I will replace the MAF myself rather than drop $400 that the dealer estimated. Blink on!
This happened to me both with my 07 WRX and 06 Forester. Thanks to the reader's contribution, I disconnected the battery for a half hour or so, then re-connected it, and lo and behold, the problem has been solved. :-)
I just brought my 2009 turbo xt forester into dealer for constant check engine light with ABS lit as well as flashing cc. Was told I would need a new air pump for $1100 - $125 diagnostic fee I was charged today. 75k miles. Didn't have it done...thinking it might be time to sell. Any advice?
125 diagnostic fee! Ouch. I dropped $47 at my dealership and am still kicking myself. Apparently autozone will run the codes for free. Interestingly, autozone's diag showed a different part that needed replacing (02 sensor, vs the MAF that the dealer said). Hard to know who to trust. Read the whole thread - disconnecting the battery for a time and retightening the gas cap has worked for many people. Good luck.
See my post above. First time I disconnected/reconnected battery, the problem disappeared but then reappeared. I repeated disconnect/reconnect, and now everything runs normally for the past week.
Dallas Subaru guy... Brilliant!!! 10 mm wrench, disconnect negative pole, wait five minutes, reconnect negative pole, turn key on to maximum before it will crank the engine, wait one minute, turn key start engine! Voila!!! magnificent I love it when life works like that. Someone needs to take Dallas Subaru guy out for dinner and drinks!
Actually, I discovered that disconnecting the battery wipes out the computer data. I found this out when the car could not be tested for emissions control. After driving it around for a while, the flashing "cruise control" indicator + check engine re-appeard....
If the problem(s) that caused the cel/cc/traction control lights to illuminate isn't fixed, disconnecting the battery & resetting the computer will only work temporarily. My 2009 Forester had an intermittent fault causing these lights to illuminate. Eventually the lights remained on continuously. Replacing the catalytic converter has resolved the problem.
This is the greatest discussion. Like most of you, my cruise control light flashed, and the emergency light stayed on. Happened once before and I took it to the dealer. He said it was the gas cap. This time, I looked it up on line. I did as directed by some of you wonderful people--disconnected battery for 30 minutes, cleaned gas cap and area surrounding it, turned on accessories only for five minutes, and started the car. It worked perfectly. For how long this will last, I don't know, but I was pretty proud of myself. Thanks to everyone who wrote with suggestions.
2005 Forester all your doing by disconecting the battery is resetting the code set.Which in turn resets the cruise control.it gets unusable if you get a check Engine light.You can buy a cheap OBD code reader that will reset your codes for $40.No good answer to the problems your all having.My experience with Subaru is that they like to replace expensive parts.When you unplug your battery it resets your codes.your car will need 3 starts to begin to run correctly as the computer has to relearn all the sensors. The OBD cose reader plugs in to a plug just under your steering wheel and takes ten seconds to reset your code.Oxygen sensors are famous for failing on many vehicles.If I will try anything it will be that. For now I just reset my code from time to time
Just had the same problem on my 08 Outback. After about a week, it began having a sluggish start. So, I read all the postings and decided to do the cleanest fix first - not much for getting my fingers greasy and wrecking my nails... :) I bought a new battery and the nice auto parts store guy installed it for me. Voila... the car now starts like it's new and the lights have gone off.
I had the same problem with my 2006 wrx impreza CS9. Engine light came on this morning with the cruise light flashing. Admittedly I did give it a boot full when it happened. The car seemed to drive fine no problems. Both lights still on while driving home from work. Now what I did was unplug a wiring harness that is situated just off the top of the air flow box. It's about 40mm wide. Blew it out with a strong breathe and plugged it back in again. Started the car up and no engine light and no cruise light flashing any more........... for now anyway. Will let you know it the problem comes back. Hope this was helpful.
I have Subaru Forester 2011. (I guess the youngest car in this thread). When started car today in the morning the CEL was on solid, Traction Control on and solid, CC blinking. Bought the car from a dealership 2 months ago and was assured that the car was checked and in a great shape. Brought it to the dealership (i have an extended warranty so no extra costs here). Right now the car is in the mecanic's hands. Will post an update when i ger my Forry back.
Here's my update. I had tried all the 'easy' fixes for the CEL solid and blinking CC to no avail. After months of avoiding it, I dragged it into a trusted mechanic. I had failed inspection and had no choice. As autozone had said in a free check, the O2 sensor was the problem. It was replaced a few weeks ago and the lights have stayed out since. My local Subaru dealership had originally told me that it was the MAF at fault - very glad I never wasted money replacing it. The car was running fine otherwise, but I think a faulty O2 lowers your mileage.
I have a 2010 Forrester with roughly 85,000 miles on it. I have had this light issue before and it resolved its self in a day. We recently had the oil changed and the air filter changed and this has been going on for a month now. At this time the car is in the driveway with the battery disconnected and I am going to attempt theses fixes. I have little hope though. The car has been rattling for over a year since the heat shields were loose and something tells me now there may be catalytic converter issues. Inspection is due January 2015 so if the simple fixes don't work I will most likely be needing a new exhaust syetem...it has been sneaking through inspection for the last 2 years. ALSO I did note that my gas mileage has been crappy. Not sure if this is due to another problem or if it is from warming the car up for 5-10 min to get the interior warm lowering the gas mileage. Will keep you informed.
Following up my previous comment regarding 2011 Forester, the issue was solved in half an hour. I simply did not tighten the gas cap properly and the sensor detected gas fumes. Will have to be tough on this cap from now on :)
I have a 2007 Subaru forester and the solid chech engine light and flashing CC light came on today. I took it to Autozone and they plugged in a code meter underneath the steering column. The code was diagnosed as PO420 which can be one of sverl possible issues such as a sensor, catkytic converter or engine oil leak. I will take th car to the dealer on Monday armed with information from this blog and Autozone before making any repairs. I will also try disconnecting the battery if the dealer suggested repairs are not in line with info in this blog and what Autozone informed me. FYI, the Autozone diagnosis was free. Will follow up this thread with information from dealer diagnosis later.
Tried Chinafromboston's hint and it worked! First time! Thank You
Went to the Subaru dealer yesterday and they cme up with the same diagnostic code as auizone po420. Except this time it ost me $48. The dealer rest the code so the lights at no longer on and recommended I wait to see if the lights come on again. If the lights come on again the next test is to run the car on the highway at a steady speed to graph what the real problem may be. I asked if this next test was accurate as I noted from this blog that diagnosing this problem does not seem to be accurate. They said the next test would pinpoint the problem. I will wait to see if the lights come on again. I am hoping this was just a freak incident and the lights never come on again. Anyone know about this highway graphing road test?
So, funny thing. I have a 2005 Subaru Impreza RS Wagon. About 6 months ago, the ENGINE light came on and the CC light started blinking. I took it to my mechanic, they couldn't figure it out, said maybe it was a gas cap issue. Cleaned cap, etc, didn't go away. Then it would just go away by itself, then come back, then go away. I had them check it and they said not to worry. Seemingly unrelated, by car was burning too much oil (without my knowledge, never had any issues) and car ran out of oil and engine seized. Sucks. Anyway, I put a new (old) engine in the car two weeks ago, car runs great... then engine light came back on and CC is blinking. New mechanic said computer says "misfire" but he doesn't think that's the issue as engine is running smooth. He said maybe I need a new coil. I've ordered a new gas cap as well. So, apparently same ENGINE LIGHT/CC LIGHT issue with two different engines? Maybe it's not the engine?
There in lies the issue with the engine and cc light problem. If they connect a monitor to the plug under the steering column they come up with a code po420 which indicates several possible issues. Which leaves me to believe this is not an easily fixed problem and could lead to costly repairs that don't fix the problem. I did stop at Midas to get second opinion and the manager there was very knowledgable on the po420 problem. According to the Midas manager they can place a scanner on the car and pinpoint the problem. He also recommended trying some of the cheaper solutions first before spending a lot of money on such things like replacing the catalytic converter. If the light comes on again I may try Midas first before the dealer. He did mention he lights usually come back on after riding on the highway.
I had a code for lean gas/02. I replaced the oxygen sensor on bank 1. But didn't work. Paid dealer $900 to find/fix to no avail. Don't bother with the dealer guys. I suspect it is coming from the muffler or fuel system as it really rattles when going uphill. Light is still on, can't use cc but it runs fine otherwise. Bummer. Light always comes back on when on the highway.
I have a 2006 Forester w/117,000 miles. The check engine light and flashing cruise control light came on, I disconnected the battery at other's suggestions, it came back on about 3 days later, I tried the gas cap trick, replaced the air filter and about every other thing that I have read online. I took it to a Subaru dealer who said it was an Oxygen Sensor, I had it replaced for about $400, it has come back on one day later. I called to question their decision, she said the oxygen sensor was bad but they also needed to replace the air fuel sensor also. (For another $400). I think I will do like an earlier poster suggested, put black tape over the lights. Love my Subaru, but I won't be buying another, this should be recalled as Subaru evidently have an extensive problem with this. Class action lawsuit anyone?
It has been about a month since I did the battery disconnect, clean gas cap, etc., to stop the flashing cruise control light and check engine light problem. When using the cruise on a 30-mile trip, it happened again. It is still flashing. I'm getting an oil/filter change tomorrow with my tire company and will seek advice from him (non-dealer opinion). I'll likely disconnect the battery again. Like you, saynotosubaru, I am discouraged about getting another Subaru. This was my first. Will see . . .
Depending on the year of your Forester, and some other vehicles too possibly, you maybe should be getting your catalytic converter replaced for free. I also has the CEL on and had Monro Muffler run the scan FOR FREE. The PO420 code popped up and I was tipped off to a recall on the catalytic converter. I have a 2009 Forester which is having that along with a brake line recall and a rear seatbelt recall worked on today. I will post after I pick my Forester back up to let you know if the problem has indeed been solved.
Do you have any specifics on the catalytic conveter recall from Subaru? My engine light and cc light just went on again after driving on the highway and using cruise control. I pan to take it to the dealer today to diagnose the exact cause. I will ask the dealer about the catalytic conveyer recall.
Here is my update, it isn't good. As I mentioned before I recently had my oil changed and my air filter replaced, since then I have had the CC and CE light issues, I tried all of the "easy" fixes here and none worked. I took it back to the mechanic, asked him to just go back and check all he had done because "usually" this could be a simple fi. No such luck. He showed me the MAF and the wiring or "pig tail" that it was connected to. The MAF had corroded causing the pig tail to corrode as well. At least 1 of the pins inside the MAF was broken off and although the car would still start, it ran badly and if the car or MAF was bumped it would stall. In my past post I had mentioned the poor gas mileage recently well this could be it. Getting the MAF is no problem but the wiring was a pain. Subaru seems proud of this since it runs about $400. I know in some posts people have said they ignored the issue and later on their car just died. I would have ignored it like others had if I was not taking a trip so I figured I would get it looked at to be sure. Had I traveled with this problem, in my case, I probably would have been stranded. So take a look at the MAF connection and make sure there is no corrosion or it may turn into a huge issue. Also, when the MAF connection was disassembled the mechanic said it looked like it had been repaired in the past. I never repaired it or had it looked at but one of the wires had electrical tape around it like it had been repaired. I am getting the part from my mechanic when he is done today and am going to ask Subaru about it. The new part, ordered from Subaru does not have tape on it I was told.
http://www.subaru.com/vehicle- recalls.html Follow this link, put you VIN in and any recalls for your vehicle will pop up.
Thx for he pointer. The dealer informed me I had to rplac the catalytic converter at a cost of $2600. I asked the dealer if Subaru would stand behind their vehicles and pay for some of the repair ost. They said most likely not but I could call Subaru and ask them myself. At this point I am totally fed up with Subaru and their costly repairs and will trade the car in for a new and more reliable toyota Camry. Say goodbye to Subaru forever. I will NEVER buy another Subaru. What a piece of you know what.
My mechanic called me last night and said the part Subaru sent them is the wrong one...seriously? He is going there today to find out WTF is going on. Total repair cost on this is going to be roughly $700 and that is almost all parts since it takes about 10 minutes to install but it is over a week we have been waiting for the parts to come. Although my Subaru is a 2010 and has 85,500 miles on it it hasn't needed anything but maintainance since we bought it but if this continues I will definitely be looking towards other makers. I hope they get a fire under their asses on this and get me the part...or a loaner car (like that would happen).
The number of repairs I have made and the high ost of those airs have been ten times the cost of repairs I have made on my 2003 camry. I've rep,aced half he engine, power steering unit, señor that disables the shifting of gears, front en stabilizers and way bars, timing belt, remove the rusted rear wheel metal shields, weld the heat shields twice and there are more that I probably don't remember. I've had used cars that were better than this car. See you later Subaru. I'm taking my wallet and money elsewhere. The deler wouldn't even call Subaru to see if thy would take responsibllity for some of $2600 to rplace the catalytic converter.
The catalytic converter seems to be the culprit in my case. The dealer replaced it free of charge because it was recalled on my vehicle. On the way home from the dealer I stopped for gas. When I restarted the car the CEL came back on and I lost power when I tried to accelerate. The light stayed on for about 100 miles... ( I travel a lot in one day) the light went off on its own tonight and I've had no issues with power loss when trying to accelerate or slowing down to idle.
Before anyone goes out and gets their Catalytic Converter replaced at a mechanic's suggestion, check this fix (I found it on the recall page as referred to by Subawho - for my 2009 Forester). After I had this done, I have not had the CE/CC light problem. Recall Description for 2006-2009 Models: "WVM23: Engine Control Module (ECM) Reprogramming. During a quality review, Subaru discovered that under certain severe driving patterns, such as high speed highway/uphill driving and/or accelerating with high engine revolutions, the efficiency of your vehicle's catalytic converter may begin to degrade beyond design parameters. (The Check Engine light will illuminate to alert you if the catalytic converter efficiency has degraded beyond an acceptable level and if your vehicle may be releasing air pollutants that exceed Federal or California emission standards.) Safety Risk This is not a safety-related recall. Remedy To prevent this condition, Subaru has developed a modification to the Engine Control Module software logic that will improve management of the catalytic converter. This software change will not adversely affect the performance of your vehicle."
Has anyone replaced the ECM module and at what cost? Did this fix the engine light and CC light issue described in the previous threads.
I just checked the recalls on my 2007 Subaru forester and the ECM module was replaced. All recalls are up to date. So we are back to replacing the catalytic converter.
Well, I said Subaru sent the wrong part...apparently it is the correct part. Imagine this...If you needed to fix the plug at the end of a cord it seems pretty easy right? But imagine the only way you could get this plug was at the end of a cord that also had connections to almost every other appliance in the house. Long story short, over $400 for the part and over 8 hours in labor to replace it according to Subaru. Mechanic is calling junk yards this week to see what he can find. Maybe I will pay for the part and ask if they can just cut the connector off the end and rewire it to existing wire housing in the car....we will see.
Spend $15-20 and get a code reader from Amazon or some other vendor first. If you know what code it is it will ave you a lot of trouble In the past I have had a secondary air valve failure (EXPEWSIVE REPAIR ~$1700). Now I have a p0420 code, which is catalytic converter efficiency, but that could be an oxygen sensor or a vacuum leak or a dozen other things. The code reading tool can clear you codes, and I don't recommend having it looked at until it occurs right after you reset the code, so they don't charge you for diagnosis and find NOTHING. Plus, if you go in and know the codes you can google them so you know how serious it is and the likely causes
You can go to the AutoZone store and they will read your codes for free. I did this first and tats where I first revived the po420 code. They give you a pint out of what he code means. The po420 code oes point to several possible issues as you have stated. I brought this up with the Subaru dealer and they insisted it was the catalytic converter. In fact when checking the cost of $2600 to replace the catalytic converter I found the dealer was overcharging me anywhere from $1000 to $1500 based on what other shops near me where charging for that service. What a rip off.
OK, Called Subaru regarding the issue. The wire housing I need to replace (due to a corroded clip on the end of it) is $1500 and requires 8-10 hrs of labor to put in. They said once the job is done by my mechanic to send them the invoice and they will see if they can help me on cost of the part. I'm pretty sure I am going to do my best to Mickey Mouse this repair and unload this thing ASAP. I bought this Subaru due to the good things I have heard of them standing behind their product....not any more. They can stuff this car and all the BS it has caused me this Christmas season. I hope when they do the half-asses fix on this it works.
Like you I bought my Subaru because I thought it was a reliable car. I've spent more on repairs for my Subaru then any other cars I have owned. What I have found is not only is my Subaru unreliable but the cost of repairs are very expensive. I would NEVER buy another Subaru.
Have had 2 Subies (2002 WRX Sportwagon 115,000 and 2006 Forester XT 73,000). And while both had a fairly big problem under warranty, the WRX has been nearly trouble free. The Forester has had a few EXPENSIVE fixes, though. Overall, the Subies tend to be relatively trouble free, but repairs are VERY high. If you contact Subaru of America, and the problem is one that is common, they will somethimes cut a a deal with the dealer to give you a break (I have had repair costs cut in half). The dealer has to be on your side, though.
Just to follow on my post; I've had this problem with an old engine, then it died and I put a new (used) engine. Solid engine light and flashing cruise. Got a new gas cap, no change. Light was on for a couple days then went off just in time for inspection. Then it came back on for a week so I took to mechanic. What I got from them was a Error Codes PO 303 and PO 304. They put new sparkplugs and tested compression. Lights went off.... for about 30 miles. Now they're back on. Aaargh!!!!
Mine is an 07 outback. Everything was fine till I had Advance Auto Parts install a new battery. During installation the guy put the battery posts on in the wrong, I found from a service station friend later, order. Immediately the flashing cruise light and the CEL came on. Drove it to my service station friend and he found a bad fuse in the engine compartment. Change the fuse and the lights went away for a month. Then they came back on and I pulled and replace all the fuses in the engine compartment, as the were all okay, and the lights went away. The Just came on again today. Rats! I can't believe someone hasn't figured out what this really is!!!
I don't think you can put the battery posts wrong can you? Wouldn't that like short-circuit something? Sucks it won't go away for you either.
I don't have an answer, but a question...My CEL light/cc came on, took it to the dealer and said I needed a new engine cooling fan. I read a lot of posts, put premium gas in my car, tightened gas cap and 2 days later lights went off...Dealer had ordered part, $400, but I cancelled my appt...should I wait till it comes back on? My car runs great...2006 Outback, 125,000 miles....
I don't know. I took mine again and they were like "your sparkplugs and your cables look bad but we did a compression test and that looks OK. It's reading like a misfire". Lights went away... for 2 days. Now I've had it on for 2 weeks. No clue. I also got a new gas cap. Didn't matter.
Okay, this is the process that will save you grief, and maybe a lot of money. When that light comes on, your cruise control is flashing and inoperable as well. Get on Amazon and buy an inexpensive sncanner that can read and clear your codes (Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles which is $19.99 on Amazon, but I have seen this and others for $15). Read the code and look it up on google or in the book that comes with the scanner: it will tell you if it is the misfire or your gas cap, or multiple codes (this can happen). Then ERASE the codes. Don't bring it in for repair until the code pops up predictably or you are wasting your time and money. They will only find the problem when it appears all the time.
My new gas cap didn't help, either. Think I'll try your scanner . . . if I can figure out how to use it . . . I've seen that suggestion before on the blog so I might as well try. Thanks.
It is becoming apparent to me that the one fix is to disconnect the battery for a short while. By doing that you reset the error code and it has taken me anywhere from 1 to 3 days before the check engine light and cruise light come back on. Subaru dealers cannot fix the problem so a clearing of the error code and battery disconnect will keep the customers happy for a few days before the lights reappear. Just my opinion.
A few things to point out: 1) Disconnecting the battery for 5-10 min simply erases all the fault codes. These were your best source of info and you erased them. 2) The CC flashing simply means the engine computer decided it does not want you to use the CC anymore with this fault code in place. The CC flash is a symptom, not a cause. 3) Unless you run sh@tty gas (WalMart, Kroger,) every day, every time, your Cat Converter should last 200K miles. Period. 4) Check your oil every time you buy gas. The Subaru boxer engines burn oil, they just cannot help it. If the oil gets 2 qt low they quit burning oil, but the engine wears out at 3X the rate that it should. 5) Subaru boxer engines leak oil after 65K miles. Spend all the money you can stand, they will leak again after another 20K miles. See #4 above, check the oil level. 6) Subarus are for car people. The kind that open the hood and know what they are looking at. If you want to forget how to open the hood, buy a Honda, second best would be Toyota. This is why you hear good things about Subarus - some people (me too) really like them. But you need to know what you are signing up for. Kind of like the difference between owning a cat or a dog. The dog needs some love and attention. The cat needs almost nothing other than fuel. Now for something constructive: Buy a $50-80 code reader from WalMart or Autozone. I have one I bought 6 years ago from WalMart for $80 and it has saved me easily $2000 since then. Yes you can get codes from Autozone and look them up on the internet. The problem is with a lot of cars, the problem is just a glitch, or temporary hiccup in the engine (misfire, emission fart, gas cap burp). With YOUR code reader, you can read the code, and if it indicates anything with emissions, just erase all codes and see if it comes back. If it comes back as soon as you start the car, then MAYBE it worth a trip to the mechanic. I would want to see it come back (the same code) over and over before I got too excited. This applies only if the car runs OK.. If it is seriously limping, erasing a code will not help. Background: Lifetime engine fixer. Started on lawnmowers at age 11. cars, boats, jetskis, model planes, motorcycles, minibikes, tractors, 2-strokes, diesels, since 1969. Mechanical engineer. Motorcycle racer for over 40 years. On my 4th Subaru, all bought used with over 90K miles. Ran most of them up to 200K. Current one, 2006, has 140K. PS: When your TV show goes to commercial, run out and check you oil level. PPS: Read the owners manual on HOW to read the oil level. It not like a normal car! Quicky oil change places tend to screw it up.
JMM111 Flashing CC, and solid CEL The first time this happened, I was overdue for an oil change, and local mechanic was able to reset. Lights came back two days later. Local mechanic reset again, but told me only a Subaru dealer would be able to find the cause. This time no lights for four months. I will never go back to my Subaru dealer, as they have totally "ripped me off" So I stay with local mechanic. Lights came back a third time yesterday, and I needed my car inspected anyway. I have been told the following. Tech scanned, and got code PO171, system to lean bank 1. Tech cleared code for now, but lights may come back. I am told this is due to my oxygen sensor going bad. They are ordering the part, and will replace for about $140. I am going for it, so will keep all posted. I really still like my 2005 Forester, and feel especially safe when driving in snow.
I have a 2010 Outback. It has 132000 miles on it. These lights started flashing at about 30000 miles. The dealer reset them the first time for $90. They would come on with a simple jerk of the car and for no apparent reason. Sometimes, just filling the air in the tires turned them off. Other times, filling the gas helped, or so it seemed. I took it in for maintenance like timing belt and water pump, spark plugs at 120,000 miles.($1200) A week later the radiator cracked and the blue overheating light came on. This is the really bad light! I had the radiator repaired ($400)and drove the car to San Diego. (170 miles) After a particularly long uphill and downhill part of the drive the car overheated again, blue engine light came on but not the CEL, exploding coolant all over my engine. I filled the coolant up and had the car towed to the dealer. They told me the lines to the radiator had not been bled and there was a software update for the CEL light. ($240) The lights went off for about a week and then the blue light came on again exploding coolant all over my engine. This time I had coolant in my car and filled the radiator back up. I took it back to the mechanic who had done the previous work, and he kept it for a couple of days and ran many tests on it. He told me the car was losing pressure going uphill and he thought it was a head gasket issue. $1800. I had it fixed with a mechanic from the Subaru dealer on the side for $1200. A week later the CEL lights came on again. I took it to him and he put the scanner on it and it said the gas cap was lose. It was not. He cleaned it and reset the lights. That was last Thursday. Today the check engine light came on again! I am so frustrated at this car. It runs great and has no rattles or sputters. I put only good gas and synthetic oil in it. I am going to Mammoth in three weeks and so worried about a break down. The last two times I drove to San Diego to see my Marine, I rented a car, as I cannot trust this car on long drives anymore it would seem.
See my answer above and BUY A SCANNER so whenever a code appears, you can search it online and see what the likely cause and fixes are. The head gasket might be wrecked from overheating, but knowing the codes can only help.
I did just buy one after reading your post! Thanks
Btw davidjmel I fixed the head gaskets. I got a deal from a subaru mechanic on the side at $1200. It's just so frustrating that after $4000., this CEL is still an issue
Hope they changed the thermostat... it is cheap and should have been changed with the first overheat/radiator repair. That won't cause a code by itself, but running hot causes all kinds of damage...
I don't think they did!
If it overheats again, have the thermostat changed before anything else: it is not expensive, but use the GENUINE SUBARU part (aftermarket thermostats are not as reliable)
Aftermarket thermostat is less than $10 for the part, and brand is $20-25. ANY mechanic can replace, but make sure they know how to purge air.
So I emailed Subaru about this issue. The light is still on after three days. Here is there reply. Thoughts? Thank you for your message and the additional information. I certainly understand your frustration if the check engine light seems to be coming on frequently. While I realize this is annoying for you, a solid check engine light usually indicates a minor fault, such as an oxygen sensor or other emissions related part. As long as the engine is running normally you should be fine to drive the vehicle until your Subaru service department diagnoses the cause and corrects the fault. Until the fault is corrected the cruise control and vehicle dynamics control will be temporarily deactivated. Since your Subaru retailers last inspection did not correct the issue I would suspect that they may need a little more time to track down the cause of the light. Although I have seen cases where the diagnosis was more challenging, I have never encountered a situation where a check engine light could not be corrected. If you would like to arrange to leave your Subaru with a Subaru retailer service department for a few days to help facilitate in an extended diagnosis, I would be pleased to cover any loaner or rental vehicle charges during the inspection. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Sincerely, Grant Noble Subaru of America, Inc. Customer/Dealer Services Department 1-800-SUBARU3 (1-800-782-2783) Service Request Number: 1-8931988610
It is a form letter: I would either buy a code reader (see earlier post above) or stop at an Autozone or other auto parts retailer who will read the codes (and reset the check engine light) for free. THEN go to Subaru and ask what they want to do. I would also contact Subaru of America and complain about the number of problems and the failure to repair in a reasonable number of visits, after great expense. My experience is that they will work with loyal customers.
I did buy a code reader and it came today. I don't think that was a form letter as they offered to pay for my rental car for an extended diagnosis. My fear is that they will try to sell me a CC. I think I am going to have the 02 sensor replaced and thermostat. I can have that done somewhere other than Subaru for a fraction of the cost. Thanks for your help
What codes were on the car, and did they come right back when you reset them? Good luck, your plan sounds good.
I was just going to ask you how I get into my panel to plug this in. I saw the mechanic put it under the steering wheel somewhere, but I am not sure where. I thought about looking at the owner's manual but I am fairly certain that information won't be in there. Thanks
Bottom of the dash on the left, next to hood release. See image. http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/checkengine.html Make sure to put car in "0n" position, insert obd-II scanner, hit enter, then scroll to codes, hit enter, then write down code number(s). Scroll to see them. It will say how many (could list active and pending codes). There is an option to clear them. Clear the codes (car may be VERY hard to start after) and see how long they take to return. Troubleshooting is very hard if the codes don't come back quickly. The accompanying book is helpful for identifying what the code means, but the BEST solution is to Google the code with your year and model.
I found it! I did it and it reads P0457 which according to the book means EVAP emissions control system leak cap off or loose. I erased them. You are right had trouble for a minute starting my car but just turned it off for a minute and then no problem. I have no idea what this means but will look up as you suggest. Thank you so much!
Loose or bad gas cap? (Gasoline filler cap)
That is what the Subaru dealer said a week ago. I have checked on this blog and apparently lots of people have bought new gas caps and that has not helped. I suppose I could try it. For now, I am reset and no lights are blinking. I thought I would wait and see if this is a repetitive code before I start throwing money away.
If the gas cap is tight, then ask your mechanic to check the hoses that connect to the engine from the vapor recovery system: I had a repair done on a 2002 WRX and a loose hose on the intake manifold was causing that code. It was 4 inches of rubber tubing that they sell by the foot at the auto parts store. They didn't even charge me for the tubing because the piece was so small. Finding it requires pulling on the hoses (they push onto a metal nipple or plastic valve or whatever). This is the toughest thing to find because it could be ANYWHERE from the gas tank to the vapor canister behind the back bumper to the intake manifold. But that is ALMOST CERTAINLY the cause. Replacing the gas cap is worth it just to rule out the problem, but probably won't help.
Looks like lots of things can cause this. I've been told by a non-dealer Subaru mechanic that I need to replace some item that sits on top of my gas tank. What really PISSES me off though, is that the Subaru engineers have baked a shutdown of the cruise control into whatever the cause of the CEL. I think that's arrogance ("gets your attention, doesn't it" I've been told) and my solution is a non-Subaru with my next car purchase.
I had a similar issue with my 2007 Outback XT (Note the engine is identical except for the turbo which was not the issue.) where the check engine light would come on particularly in the cold. The Intake Manifold gaskets were leaking air, which tripped the CEL with code P0171. The gaskets were redesigned to seal better. Replacing the gaskets cost me about $350 (most of that labor) sine then, no issues. If you have it done, make sure to have them do both the upper and lower gaskets since it isn't much more in labor costs as they have it apart there anyways.
09 Forester 120,000 mi. Same issue, will report back with findings.
Send the information to Subaru of America! They offered to pay for my rental car but I'm going to ores them to fix it! Ive been dealing with this for 4 years
Thx for the info Dana. However I refused to deal with or pay Subaru another dime or waste anymore of my valuable time dealing with this ccl issue. I recently purchased a 2015 Toyota Camry and I am one happy camper. I wil NEVER purchase another Subaru.
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