2004 Endeavor engine knock
I have a 04 endeavor AWD with 140k miles. For the past year, the engine would knock, rattle upon cold starts. Recently it developed a loud full time knock, which went away 3 days later. I had the intake flushed, no change. It has been hit and miss until 4 days ago, now its all the time. The knocking goes away when I accelerate. I use 5w30 synthetic oil and premium fuel. The knocking is on the passenger side of the engine, not sure exactly where (seems to be in back of motor) any suggestions? video here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6LOR6ExH1A
That is loud and ugly. I have no clue what it is and no clue why it hasn't destroyed something yet.
I have to say its a main bearing tearing itself up, oil pressure loss ? power loss ? im pretty sure its a main bearing .. checky our oil for metal flecks, and if its a bearing you really do not want to run it at all .. tow to the garage, do not drive it there
Not sure about oil pressure. No loss of power. No metal in the oil. I drove 100 miles like this the other day, could a failing bearing withstand that? This started only on cold starts, 1 year 40,000 miles ago. It would go away but now it stays.
a failing bearing is hard to predict just exactly how long it will last fore detonating, if its not a bearing something it slapping something around, whatever it is don't sound real good, if you have a mechanic/garage you trust take it there and see what they say, but in all honesty ive had a bearing fail on me and it sounded almost identical to this, when you reved it, the speed of the knock increased so something there,
heres a couple vids showing what a spun bearing sounds like www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8bDr_hOn9Q www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1k7ZKzXbqM
main bearings will knock accelerating or decelerating and wile holding a steady rpm it don't matter
There is a rattle sound during deceleration. If it was a main bearing, could it come and go over a years time? I checked a plug and they are clean.
the knock goes away as I accelerate, during deceleration its a "rattle knock" Should I do another video?
could get your hands on an automotive stethoscope and listen to where its coming from that will tell you a lot
I will have mechanic look at it tomorrow. He initially thought it was carbon, I have since had intake flush.
well let us know what you find out helps to educate ppl with similar problems
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUlpPyyvqa8 another video
rod bearing or piston pin with that info ide say .but why would it ever quit? piece of plug in one piston hole?
Remove the serpentine belt and start the engine. Does it still knock? If not it's an accessory like the alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, water pump or possibly the harmonic balancer. Only run the engine a few minutes like that though. With the serpentine belt removed the water pump is disabled and you don't want to overheat the engine. HTH. -Jim
well here is 2 more video examples of definite rod knock,, one even being an 04 endeavor which sound exactly the same as yours the other being a 3000gt or stealth, www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6LOR6ExH1A www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeHxuYi-138&NR=1
The endeavor in the video is mine. I have more than one video
oops my bad lol
Mechanic was stumped. Did not feel it was rod knock or main bearing. I put a can of JB engine treatment in the oil and boom, instantly ran like new. Strange.
mgary, hows the car been running for ya ?
I just took my 2010 Endeavor to the shop for a ticking noise when it first starts up in cooler weather. They checked & couldn't find anyhting wrong. The mechanic said he has an Endeavor & his does the same thing. It seems to be a Mitsibushi problem that no one know how to fix. We are trying 5W50 oil to see if that will help.
sounds like lifter tick,, very common in the first gen 3000gt and stealths,, sounds like the same thing, the ticking goes away after it gets warmed up cause the lifters have been pumped back up ,, if this is it and it sounds to me like it is, then nothing to worry about just annoying,, im not saying that's the problem or whatever for sure but that's what im thinking it is ,, if i can give you a tip try starting your own thread instead of hijacking someone elses
When you said you are using premium fuel, how many times you been filling with premium.?? Did you buy Endeavour brand new. I tried only few times(regular gas) and it wasnt' prety. You have SOC. And you have two cam shafts. Right bank shaft is runing acessoris. I have changed my timing belt, auto tensiner, and puley. Water pump as well.On 100.000 miles. Right after i started engine, indeed there was prety unnerving noise coming from right bank. I drove it to our Canadian Tire shop thinking that i screwed up something. But like magic, after few miles noise went away.When and or did you change your timing belt.?? Did your timing belt becomes loose and jump,?You also have crankshaft senor. Hope this will help
Hello, I have a 2004 mitsubishi endeavor and it sounds exactly like the one in the video, identical. Here's the kicker, I live at 4200 ft elevation, sound is always there. When I travel to another town, 180ks away or 140ks away, 2000ft less elevation, shut the car down and restart the sound is gone, and I mean gone. You would never know you have a problem. When I take the car back up to 4200ft elevation, the sound will soon come back if not right the next day but within a few days. The sound will never leave until you leave elevation again. Is there an elevation / timing sensor? Stumped as you would throw this engine away at 4200 but drop 2000 ft and it's a gem. Any help?? I had the timing belt and idler tensioner pully changed (it was due), hot oil flush on the engine and added stp oil treatment.
Hi Grammertime, the reason for this is because at higher altitudes the air is thinner (less oxygen). In the old days some cars, like my '70 Pontiac, actually used a different carburetor for high altitude applications. It was jetted leaner (less fuel) to compensate for the thinner air. I would think that with today's onboard computers the vehicles would automatically compensate for this by reducing fuel injector spray volume. Possibly one of the duties of the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. Or maybe the MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor. HTH. -Jim
Mine has done the same thing. I have had no problems with it running good just the noisy is awful when it's cold out and you start it. Doesn't always do it.
I went to the Mitsubishi service dept. and they said I need to have my lifters change. Which cost me $1,100 dollars. I have to bring it back because some of them is still loose. I'll let u know if my SUV sounds better after there done.
Stop whatever your doing! I took it to a silver certified Mitsubishi dealer and they diagnosed the problem in five minutes. The previous dealer had misadjusted the mechanical tensioner as well as the hydraulic tensioner bled out causing the belt to slack off! This is the horrible sound you are hearing. The hydraulic tensioner is the problem and it's tuff to diagnose but a good mechanic will know!! It will provide tension when it is warm but cold will fail and as it get's worse will continue to fail!!
One dealer wanted to change the motor at $11000....total parts in from the new dealer I took it to plus labor was $1000. I was on the road in 5 hours. If you are in or near Edmonton AB Canada go see Dave Brooks at North Side Mitsubishi! Don't waste any more money. Hope this helps!
Grammertime, was the problem solved by replacing the tensioner?
What kills me is there was a video up on youtube when I was looking at purchasing 2004 but the car wasn't doing it at the time so I really didn't pay close attention. He said something about intake butterfly's and a vacuum line but I've never heard of an intake butterfly. Down side is the video is no longer on youtube. I can start this car and it will clatter, shut it off and then restart it and no clatter at all. I live at almost 9000 ft and it happens almost every morning but when I head down to Denver it doesn't occur. Could it have anything to do with air density in a vacuum system. Total wild guess.
What I understand from my mechanic is that inside the manifold are little air flaps that opens depends on the air temperature. The springs that control the tension might be worn causing them to stick open so they are struggling to close making that fluttering noise. He said he broke his flappers out and the noise stops.
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