Lost Power while accelerating onto highway
MPV lost power and nearly quit while entering highway. I had drove some 5 miles before problem occured. No engine light present. Used CODE scanner, no codes retreived (pass). Possible Fuel filter or pump? Has any one had a similar problem?
Drove MPV to work at reduced power (speed). MPV would not start and idle after I tried to go home from work. Mpv starts (now) ok and I can drive, but at low power?
i have the same problem on my 2000 mpv i changed the fuel pump and it worked for another 2 weeks but now i still have the same problem when i try to press the gas pedal after running for a few minutes it has no power and wants to die so i have no clue on what to do.
i too have the same problem, this van starts and idles perfectly. no codes. can drive at greatly reduced speed and power. at initial foot on the gas it works great til i get about 100 feet down the road and it starts dieing. IAC valve was not my problem, coils are good, fuel pressure over 50 psi, timing checks out too. Any help from anyone would be great.
My 2001 MPV did the same thing awhile ago, I took it to the shop and they changed the Front catalytic converter. It drove perfect for 3 months. Now its doing it again. These MPV'S have 3 catalytic converters so now I have to change the second one. I'm just hoping it's the cheaper one. Good luck!
try your throttle position sensor
it is probably the EGR. symptoms tell us this.
I'm having the same problem with my 2003 MPV. When I accelerate quickly ( merging onto the freeway). It stalls. Did you guys find out what the problem was? Do you still own your van? Maybe it's time for a new car. I can't stall on the freeway I have kids :(
It ended up being the computer. It was a pricey fix $3500. Also it had something to do with the carborator (I think that's the right part) and the exhaust.
@Kindred...we haven't had carburetors for more than 25 years...oooo
every time I've replaced a computer...it was of no use...did not work, because the problem was at the Grounding...the chassis ground to the battery is CRITICAL...300 amp connection must be present to the chassis ground and to the motor block as well...perhaps could have saved you the money....bit of a snow job going on here~
I bought a used 2002 Mazda MPV a few weeks ago. When I test drove it, it ran fine. I told the dealer I wanted it. I arranged to pick it up, but was told they found something under the hood needed to be replaced, which took another day. I picked it up the next day and it jerks when it idles and driving down the road and won't go and dies when I try to climb hills. None of this happened when I was test driving it. It seems very strange that this sound happen. Could they have done something to it, making it do this? It came from a reputable dealer.
@stranded2...I'd disassemble and clean the EGR with some brake cleaner~
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